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the same

put the matching 5X4 1/2" front disk brakes on it you will be MUCH MUCH happier in the long run

the tapered factory type are better

an A body 8 1/4 is the way to go, they are a great easy bolt in, strong enough for any driver, no cutting no welding required, just make sure of what ratio you get, some came with 2.45:1

what breaks rear's is shock as in repeated hard launches 7-1/4" rears just break easier

my 40 plus year old factory V8 barracuda still has the original 7-1/4 rear and it works just fine, 100,000 miles and going strong, of course I dont beat on my car, if I did I am sure I could break it if I really tried

3/8 ratchet, fits in the square hole on the filler plug remove the plug and check for oil, it should be at the level of the filler hole if not add until it starts to run out the hole if you want to change the fluid, remove the rear cover first (dont forger to put a drain pan under it) when...

7-1/4" rear weakness comes from the small size of the gears, the 7-1/4" ring gear means an proportionately small pinion gear, and tiny little side gears and planetary gears, these are the weak spot, they are so small it doesn't take much abuse to break them, they are fine for normal driving, but...

any hurst comp plus A-body shifter will work, they are all the same let me know if you want to sell or trade your inland shifter I am looking for an original one for my 66 I have an early 70's factory A-body hurst shifter that needs to be rebuilt for trade the difference between an A-body...

:toothy7:Lets not forget this version of the 727:toothy7:

I usually take the shifter handle off the box first anyway makes it a lot easier to rebuild the box that youtube video is really good to watch the bushing I was referring to is the one that all of the shift actuating levers rotate on inside the box, the bolt that holds everything together...

they are easy, just lay all the parts out in the order you remove them and make sure they go back the same way one thing I have found when rebuilding them is that the bushing gets worn out on the side the shifter assembly rides on, if you remove it from the bolt it is on, and flip it over, end...

double and triple check your carb rebuild make sure the new gaskets are identical to the original ones it is easy to miss something when rebuilding a carb and that can cause all kind's of drive ability issues

early A-bodies 1966 and back used a 9-1/2" clutch with a 122 tooth flywheel 67 and later used the 10-1/2" clutch with a 130 tooth flywheel many people upgrade to the later, bigger set up as the early smaller one kind of sucked to do that you also need to change to a later 67 and up...

road race + 440 = ????

I second this advice another option is to just replace the bad 7-1/4 rear with a good used one, often times people give them away for free, and you will not need to replace or shorten the driveshaft, or replace your shock plates, the stock 7-1/4 rear is fine for a daily driver, even with a stock...

I agree, stay with the 904, or better yet convert to 4-speed! A-833 manual! forget the pushbuton 727 it will not work with your column shift, no way

no need for that they do not delete you here

BRILLIANT!!! this guy must be some kind of genius, did he weld the wheel bearings together while he was at it? :mumum::oops::wack::banghead::sign3:

harbor freight? may as well use JB weld

road racing with an auto trans is like playing rock and roll on an iPad :wack:

no

very good advice X2

small block, big block, and slant six bell housings are all different

one of the great things about the 8-3/4 is that any center section will bolt into your housing 741, 742, or 489,

8-1/4" rear to 8-3/4" rear, driveshaft is .66" shorter if you have a lot of free play at the tail shaft it MAY fit as is every car is different though

I believe the when switching from a 7-1/4" rear to an 8-1/4" rear the driveshaft need's to be shortened 1.6" it is always better to measure the length needed with the rear in the car, as you can get a better fit that way

I was thinking of 23 and 18 spline input shafts duh the 26 spline output shaft is the same as a 904 and the 30 spline is the same one used with a 727

fewer splines = stronger mopar used the 18 spline box with hemi's and big blocks

yes but only OK on the highway 3:23 were what came standard in the formula "S"