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power box, with correct pitman arm pump, with brackets, hoses and pulleys shorter power column shaft, (just the piece that rotates in the center, not the outer column) so yea, everything from the steering wheel to the center link (you can reuse your old steering wheel) P.S. I will be listing...

you dont need to drill anything out if you just switch bushings

an early K member is the same for a V-8 or 6 cylinder, you just need to use the correct motor mounts, the center link is different though, 1966 and back are the early A-bodies 1967 and newer are the later A-bodies,

if you are on a budget, you can have a spring shop re-arch your old five leaf springs AND ad a leaf making them into heavy duty six leaf springs, if you just have them re-arched without adding a leaf, they will not stay that way for long, and the back of the car will quickly settle back down...

air shocks SUCK! always have always will

I think they just put whatever part they have laying around in the box and say %$#* you once they have your money

if you are interested I would like to swap my power steering for manual on my 66 barracuda everything in mine works fine I would swap even up for the steering shaft, pump, steering box lines and pitman arm

BBP drums are wider than SBP drums so the 7-1/4 rear housing is narrower to accommodate the wider drums the easy way to remember BBP from SBP disk brakes is single piston = big bolt four piston = small bolt 8-1/4 rear = big bolt 8-3/4 rear = small bolt all front drum brakes = small bolt...

even the factory small bolt disk brakes require 14" disk brake rims 13" wheels will only fit drum brakes

they should fit with the correct bushings installed I think they are the same springs JC Whitney was selling

did you read his post? the search function sucks

x2!

here check this out http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/worgearpac.html http://www.firmfeel.com/manualst.htm

here it is for you http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=163813

are you sure its cast iron? did you try a magnet?

the firm feel manual boxes are cast iron other than that all the manual boxes I have seen are aluminum and the power ones are cast iron, of course I haven't seen everything (yet!)

standard manual box, about $50 i recon

all the suspension mods in the world will only go so far with 14" tires

sounds like a nice set up could the problem be to much throttle in the turns causing wheel spin and resulting loss of traction? what rear? locker? sure grip? open? with any limited slip type rear, power in a turn must be carefully balanced I am sure "autoxcuda" will chime in with some good...

raising the front or rear of a car always has a negative effect on handling due to the higher center of gravity new quality stock height 6 leaf rear springs and new front torsion bars in the .9" +or- range will help http://www.eatonsprings.com/

I just used a big C-clamp to install the new ones

shoot he should get a sales commission

nothing wrong with carefully grinding away the weld replacing the ball joint and re welding it back in place, just more work, not buggered as long as it's a nice clean weld but I would use the time between welding the first new ball joint in and when I may need to eventually replace it to find...

the correct factory approved method of repairing this common problem is to weld the new ball joint to the control arm, this is actually stronger than it was when new the only down side is you need to grind off the weld or replace the control arm the next time the ball joint needs to be replaced...

start by checking all your suspension parts front and back then take it to a good alignment shop one that will take the time to tell you what is going on not just take your money

that is a question best answered by the manufacturer of the spindles

30-40 LBS aint small potatoes

NAPA sells a replacement stud I would weld it in place for good measure

I second this

heavy duty wagon springs in a car = GREAT car springs in a wagon = not so great