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I don't know of a way. You could guess somewhere in between.

Deck clearance is not always the same and varies. You need to take your own measurement there. I've seen some mopar engines more than 0.100 in the hole and some close 0.020 in the hole. When I rebuilt mine, I don't even remember what it was. Attaching the pages from the 65 TSM. I recall...

Hmmm. I guess I was wrong. The last performer I put on a 318 didn't match up on the runners, I used it anyway, cuz it was cheap,

Doesn't match 318 ports, and is basically aluminum copy of the iron mid 70s 360 4bbl intake.

My preference here is the edelbrock ld4b, it's a good well performing dual plane with the 318 sized runners. I ran one on a 77, stock 318 and had a noticeable increase after it went on.

My thoughts on it are, if you can get or have an LD340 run it, else take a the newly, made weiand. They have negligible differences, but there is the cool factor of having the vintage speed part sitting on top. Jmo

I have a 66 block that will be going together this winter, that has one each of the casting numbers as well, but the bolt angles on both are correct for the 66 up la intakes.

You can drop it off at my house the next time u r in vegas :-) I seem to be collecting them. ;-)

I'm also in agreement, id go for the 273 build, these little 273's are fast revving, and surprise many, as to how high you can take the rpms before float occurs, and how quick they can pick up and move when dialed In right. I love some of the stories my dad tells me about my dart when he...

I used to use autolites also (7 or so years ago), but when I switched to the same heat ranged ngk, it was a noticeable improvement. Since then, I switched everything I own over to ngks and would never consider moving back.

Agree with you. Even if not porting, the ld340 does perform well on a 273. Had a friend who ran one for years. He couldn't find an ld4b, but his dad had the ld340 in the shop. Was a noticeable bump on the lower end and mid rpm range.

My guess would be that hear riser as well. If its a metal clanking sound.

Wow, you had the same pistons as I had. Mine slugs weren't very far in the hole ( like .047) , but I wouldnta thought there was that much difference between our ratios with your heads 6cc smaller than mine.

Mike, what did your heads cc out at after u shaved them?

There are more than one method for taking the measurements. If the pistons are out of the engine for example, you can use liquid displacement, and measure how much volume is displaced... anyways I did it by simply adding ot subtracting the volumes of all spaces in the combustion chamber...

Egge makes the original style 10.5:1 pistons. Last set I ordered from them arrived at the house less than 36 hours later. There are a number of good cams for the 273. Racer Brown, Sneider, Isky still have their 60s performance grinds that work well. For the D dart cams no one reproduces...

Never heard of such a thing..

Is it possible that the rocker shafts were installed with the oil holes going the wrong way? How do the insides of the rockers look, are the all galled up?

In my 273 went with a Racer Brown ST-1. .450/.450 222@50 Cant remember Lobe Center, will have to look for the cam card. I've never been dis-satisfied with one of Jim's Cam's.

On mine, the insides were clean and bright, just the outside was aged. I used Hot Wheels mag and wheel cleaner and a small brass bristled brush on my original AFB and it took it from the dull dark grey back to aluminum color. I wiped in some thinned clear engine paint to seal the pores after...

I agree with the above. Valve Guide seals. I'd think that if the rings werent seating, you'd get a lot of blow-by and the smoke wouldnt go away. As for posting Chevy Small Block question on a Mopar A-bodies site. Here's the forum for you. Chevy's A-Body Site -> http://www.chevelles.com/

Last one I did, I had the pan off, and I used the handle of a hammer and wedged it between the crank and the block to keep the crank from spinning.

For me, points are so easy to deal with. But then again, I'm a die-hard on a lot of things on my Dart. I've only had to adjust dwell on my dual point distributor twice in 9 years. The spark is hot, car runs well, plus its still one of the original parts for the car. JMO.

To me, Sounds like Ignition or Timing. I would have leaned toward ignition with the lights thing, but you've already swapped out the ignition box. Have a spare starter relay? They have some play on ignition, maybe swap one in that you know is good see if it makes a difference, but I dont...

I've always used the cork or rubber end gaskets when putting on an intake. Red Silicone on the mating surfaces and ends. I usually place the metal gaskets in, put the silicone & cork/rubber gaskets on, lay the intake in the valley, let it gel till tacky, then torque it down according to...

Not from '64 or '65 Dodge or Plymouth Tech service manual. Best read from the correct service manual for these. They run about $55 for a repro book. Used you can usually find for less. I think its the first purchase that should be made after buying the car. The max on a grade 8 5/16 bolt...

My '65 original has the DCPD emblem stamped on it. I dont remember seeing AC on mine, but it is the thick 3-core. By the looks of yours, it seems similar or the same. When I'm back at the house my curiosity is peaked, will have to check the other stamps on it. Only had problems with it once...

Did you go away from the stock ball on your rockers? I thought my stock length pushrods were going to be too long until I tightened them down. What length did your cam company (Isky) recommend for pushrod length? (I seem to recall you saying you went Isky)

As do I.