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Good luck finding the bushings. The dealer offered to sell a complete weight with bushings, but no individual bushings. My fix was to find a truck repair center. They had some heavy rubber air line hose for the tractor trailer rigs that was the perfect ID & OD size to replace the bushings...

Damn Roy, that sucks. Glad you got it under control though. C

I wouldn't weld it up while it is all assembled. That's right next to the gas tank... C

The vibration occurs between 60-65. Does it happen if you are accelerating and go above 65? Does it happen while slowing down from 70-60? Or does it only occur while driving steady in this range? Have you checked and had all four tires balanced? Is there any vibration in the steering...

I would take it out and inspect it before assuming that it is bad and spending more money. C

Well, there are two ways. The fun way, back the car into the street; straighten the wheel, put in D and floor it. Examine tracks to see how many where left. Or, you can jack the rear up with a jack under the differencial. When both wheels are off the floor and the car in N (and shut off...

I have 26" skins on my Duster. I wouldn't be able to get anything taller than that up front. A taller tire in the back might depend upon what stance he is looking for with the car. C

I am changing the speedometer pinion gear to get more accurate mph readings. Anyone know what size the O ring is on the housing? There was some leakage, so I may as well get this done while I have it opened up. Oh yes, it is a 904 tranny. Thanks, C

Congratulations on the wins!:cheers: Glad to hear that a lot of vibration is gone also... C

Bill, I may be mistaken but I think you need to have the car on blocks so that the weight is on the suspension when you check those pinion angles. C

Welcome aboard Carl, and to the wonderful world of Mopar! C

Thanks ir, I will have another look and see if I might squeeze one in there somewhere. C

ir, how and where do you have it mounted? I would like to have one but don't have enough room between the radiator, a/c condenser and grill on my '72 Duster. C

I got my 998/999 out of an 88 Gran Fury cop car with 318. I took everything and put it behind the 318 in my Duster. Transmission is internally controlled. I used the drive shaft, had it shortened & balanced, and the 290 rear end also. I put a new speedo cable in for an aftermarket gauge...

2.90 in an 8.25 SG. It is great for cruising, which is what I built the car for. C

My first thoughts, will the cooler also get bigger lines? Probably easier and cheaper to add an auxillary cooler. C

One other question, did you change the U-joints when you swapped the driveshaft? C

Hello Russell, Have you checked it with the car in park or neutral, just rev'd up to the RPM's you feel the vibration at? Assuming that you have and that the vibration only comes while you are moving, do you feel it in the steering wheel or just the seat of your pants? Get it up to the 45-50...

FWIW I owned an '88 Dakota with the V6, 5 spd OD. I really liked the truck, great size, plenty of power. But, the tranny tanked on me. I did not abuse it, but it tanked at about 150,000 mi. IIRC. It was very difficult at the time (1999) to find a replacement tranny, as I found out it was...

I don't know about a champion radiator, but on my aluminum radiator these were not flare fittings that were required, just regular pipe thread. Don't remember the size, but it may have been a 5/16. I got 5/16 hose barb fittings at the local Ace. C

Jason, help us out by telling us what you are working on... and what changes you have made. I gather that you have swapped in a SB and put on dual exhaust. Welcome to the site.:cheers: C

Here is a link to ID the tranny: http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=108 Same source has this part no. guide: http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/transguide.pdf Any 904 or 727 ought to fit your Duster. C

You will need to weld on a set of spring perches also. IIRC, I used the set from my 7 1/4. I have a set of instructions that another member sent to me, PM me with your address and I will forward them on to you. This isn't a difficult job, good luck with it. C

Hello Peelo, and welcome aboard! I swapped my axle out for one from an M body Plymouth. It is a couple inches wider, I had to move the spring perches. I also put a 1/2" (1.2 cm?) spacer block in front of the front leaf spring hanger. Doing so pretty much centered the tires in the wheel well...

If you get one, how about posting up the source and part no. If you have a column shift, you might have another just like it on the other end of that linkage. If it is like mine, it is worn and needs replacement. Thanks, C

I brushed on Rustoleum hammered paint. The stuff is tough as nails and looks good to boot. The black is pretty greyish though... C

I don't think I would drop it down yet. If I am not mistaken, the 8 3/4 rear is a good bit bigger than your 7 1/4, that would mean the U joint yoke on the front is a lot closer to the tranny than it was with the 7 1/4. I believe you will need to shorten your driveshaft, or get the drive shaft...

Try contacting StrokerScamp directly. He did have a 3 speed set up from a Duster. He is also here in Georgia. Where are you located at? C

Rob found me a place:thumblef: Thanks fellas. C

Looking for a shop to shorted and rebalance a drive shaft. All the shops in the Macon area can shorten, but none of them can do the balance. Any & all suggestions (where to take it, where not to take it) are appreciated. C