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get a volt ohm meter and learn how to use it. then a wiring diagram and learn how to read it. next follow the power through the bulk head connector and see if it made it through without a voltage drop. also leave the head lights on wile you are checking so their is a load on it. it should stay...

the click runs off of the small wire. the starter moter turns of of the big wire, if the connections are good and you have 12 volts or more . the problem is in the starter

you need to stay close to the battery to reduce voltage drop. head ligthts work better to

But wait theirs more.Relays mounted to plate with in line fuses

hears one way to do it. fuse and relay box found under the hood of a 90s full size van. theirs a cover for it.it looks good when the wires are tucked in and cover is on. you have to re wire the box but every thing you need is their.

I had the same problem and changed a bunch of parts that weren't broke. I finally thought about the only thing i didn't change was the coil. I changed it and its been running grate ever sins. It really doesn't make any sense to me but it worked

I am doing my 69 barracuda using a moter compartment fuse box with relays from a dodge van using relays for ignition alternator head lights horn and starter. no amp gage. no real current goes through the fire wall just relay control power

i just have 2 things to say. in an ac inductive circuit its impedance not resistance because it changes with frequency. the higher the rpms the more the empedence on the coil goes up causing voltage to go up and curent to go down with rpms. last important thing sumit has...

check the fire wall plug where it passes through the fire wall. some times when you have them apart and plug them back in the stabs get pushed out instead of re connected

i noticed the same thing on my 67 cuda` i wired alternator output direct installed direct fed relays for alternator field and headlights. also changed ignition switch.ignition sistem still drops suply voltage one volt.i think its the fuseable link. i will probably feed the ignition with a relay...

i think i have one but i don't know how to identify witch one it is. i live close to you and you could have it if you want.I am in Berlin center

I didn't see anything about running a new wire from the alternator power stud to the power stud on the starter relay witch eliminates the alternator power from going through the bulkhead plug witch eliminates a trouble spot.wire sized according to the alternator size

I apologize i red to fast i thought it was about electronic voltage regulator witch is also good and easy.

I did mine its easy and works grate. If you feel adventurous you could ad a relay by the horn for the field power to lighten the load on the bulk head plug and ignition circuit would be good.

this drawing shows the bulk head connector and color of the wires on a 1970. compare yours one wire at a time. wire it up one wire at a time. don't look at them all at once.Ill bet it will work just fine. for the electronic ignition you will use the dark blue and brown. good luck.

if you run an 8 gauge wire from the alternator stud to the starter relay stud you will eliminate the charging current passing through the bulkhead connector. with is a good thing

check the chassis ground wires under the hood and the one that goes to the moter.

power on both sides of the coil indicates you have power to the ignition. good ballast and coil. problem on the ignition modgual side

for all the time and hastle to build one redfishes regulator is a good investment and you know it will be right.

you want info hear it is. www.mcmelectronics.com they put radio shack to shame. part# an7805 voltage regulator 79 cents. punch the number in google and you can find circiuts. you can build it cheap but you really have to know what your doing. heat sinks are free. find a piece of scrap metal in...

you can use a light bulb for a tester if your that hard up

just a thought. you could add anouther battery in the trunk. use diods to seperate them keep one fore the moter circiut and the outher for accesories.

that seems a little high but the change in run and not running voltage is good. i would verifie the acuracy of your meter

if you have a mopar electronic ignition you realy need to cary a spare box.

in this case a buss is a term for a place to hook a bunch of wires to one comen power sorce. it hase to be insulated from the body. a 1by 3 coper bar mounted on insulators would work grate. you could use the stud on the starter relay. just a term i used.

hay cudajim i didnt pay atention to your reply. mine wasent nesecary for it mimics what you said in different words. I didnt mean to step on your reply.

their is no reason to run all that currant through the fire wall plug unless you insist on haveing an amp gauge.your just asking for trouble.run a heavy wire from the alternator to the 12v buss in the motor compartment and wire your relays to the same sourse. fuse every thing. it will be safe...

hay judge. did you ever get your power stearing plumbed up.

thats exatly what i would do if it were mine

Im with you cudajim. You are dead right