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Might as well get gaskets and seals to do the job.

I personally like the edelbrock performer cam #2177, it really wakes up a stock 318 and has a nice smooth idle. I've had that cam in my daily driver for many years and love it. Put an adjustable timing set in it and run it a few degrees advanced and it should do exactly what your looking for.

The flywheel is going to depend on what bellhousing you have and the clutch is going to depend on which flywheel you have, and the bellhousing has to match the size of the input bearing retainer on the transmission you plan on running. For the most part small block passenger car flywheels are...

If that was mine and I was just putting around town with it I'd run that **** as-is, but that's just me. The flywheel is going to hold that crank together. Unless that cut goes past the flywheel mounting flange and into the root of the shaft and into the crank seal area I don't see much of the...

Do you have any pictures of the un-repairable damage? And keep in mind the 67 crank is going to have a smaller hub for the flywheel or converter than the 69 crank.

Whats your plan to mount the distributor?

An 1/8" ball valve screwed into the block before the line might be a good idea "just in case"

Maybe the oil pump drive bushing is coming apart or spinning in it's bore, that's an awful large amount of yellow flakes in the filter, usually bearing material is more of a greyish color.

It's all marketing BS, it was a careful balance of giving the customer what they craved vs bowing down to the EPA vs kissing the pinky ring of the insurance industry. Numbers were heavily fudged back in them days

It should have a 4bbl intake on it if it was originally a marine engine.

I say stroke it, go big or go home. In all reality though, if you have a good usable stock crank then it would be more economical to keep the stock stroke but if all you have is a bare block and you have to buy a crank anyway then why not put a bigger crank in it. Plus it's easier to make big HP...

A 360 LA truck motor or newer 5.9 magnum would probably be the cheapest, easiest way to go. All your 318 stuff will bolt up to the LA engine, the magnum would need an intake to keep the carb. Just add a weighted flexplate or a 360 torque converter, drop it in and go.

That's a reverse rotation marine crank, the serrations go the other way on an automotive crank.

For a small block?

Going to have to change the oil pan and pickup tube to the center sump (car) style. Your also going to have to swap the torque converter for an external balanced unit or use the B&M external balance flex plate. The motor mounts are close enough to use with a 360, you'll have to put some washers...

It fits under the stock floor for the most part, the only interference comes from the forward shifter mount hitting the top of the cross member, either the mount needs one of the bosses trimmed off or the cross member needs a little dent for clearance. No major surgery required.

When a cam is reground material is taken off of the base circle (everything except the tip of the lobe) which then sets the lifter deeper in the bore so in most cases longer pushrods are required. LA motors can use either solid or hollow pushrods, the rockers are oiled through the shafts.

Are any of the plugs oil fouled? The compression test numbers look good which means the compression rings are doing their job, the oil rings might be gummed up though. The valve seals by now are most likely chopped up into little pieces and now living in the oil pump pickup so I'd pull the...

Pull out the dowel pins in the block for the valley gaskets, some aftermarket manifolds don't have the holes in them to accommodate the dowels, the manifold is probably bottoming out before it's sealing.

Umm... I was trying to be sarcastic, maybe add a little humor to this intense thread. Carry on, all is well...

OMG! you spelled internet wrong! LOL

You can use the heads and the intake for an auto application, just change the valve springs, get rid of the rotators and use a leveling spacer on the intake to level the carb.

I'd run the 302 heads. Being that this is a cruiser and not a race car this engine probably won't be turning much past 4000 rpm anyway so you'll gain more torque from the small ports and slightly higher compression.

Your getting into the spring retainer to valve guide interference zone on LA heads and 1.6 rockers with that kind of lift. Don't know about the springs.

If you go with the magnum engines you'll need different flywheels or have your current flywheels rebalanced to magnum spec. The difference isn't much but it's enough to cause a vibration especially at high rpm.

That's the flame arrester, it normally sits on top of the carb.

The notch at the end of the shaft should face down.

Wasn't planning on it, just curious on what people had to say about it.

It just seems like the links on the double roller would eat up the shoes after a while, the stock chain that gets used with the tensioner looks like it has a smoother surface on the back side. Not trying to set off a heated debate with this.

Wont the double roller chain eat into the tensioner shoes?