Search results for query: *

Part numbers for reference Upper Hose: Gates 21794 Lower Hose: Dayco 71991 or Gates 22122 1-3/4 x 1-1/2 Hose Reducer: Gates 26391

TIG wire doing double doodie (duty) :rofl:

Dayco 71991. Cut to fit radiator side. Then order the Gates 1-3/4 to 1-1/2 hose reducer. $8

Damn I’m either good, damn lucky or my blue turd worked like a charm. Just need to wait for my 1-3/4 to 1-1/2 Gates reducer.

Trying not to use flex if I don’t have to.

haven’t figure out which lower radiator hose to use on this swap. Upper was cake. Using 70 style water pump and the original radiator outlet neck is at a funky angle. Would prefer to avoid having a new straight outlet soldered on. Here goes nothing. Headed down to part store with this turd I...

I would love to keep things minimal without a lot of extraneous clutter. But if I need the water valve assembly I’ll use it. I’ve already cleaned it up and polished it just in case. In the meantime I’ll try blocking the red and white lines and hook up the door blender hose to vacuum. I really...

Yep there were three. Thanks for the help. Gotta head to the store for a proper manifold vacuum fitting.

Thanks Red. I remember there were s bunch of vacuum hoses around that thing and knew one had to go to the door controller. I deleted the valve already so I’ll plug those. Wonder if anyone has pictures of their setup.

1968 Dart factory A/C car. I removed the AC unit and lines but still have the original dash unit with push button vacuum controls. Is there a simple way to still control the heater flaps without the funky vacuum canister that was originally on the fender apron? I circled it in red. What if I...

So I’m not running A/C and I believe what I have here is a factory original thermal fan clutch for an A/C car since it has the spring thingy. Not sure if this is a good functioning clutch yet and don’t want to find out necessarily. Would rather just replace it at this point in my build. Although...

Okay so Im really close to having everything ready for the /6 to 340 conversion. I ended up keeping the /6 a/c 22in radiator from the car since it was in really good shape and my lower radiator hose would work out fine (70s aluminum water pump style) The upper is another issue since a 68’ V8...

Will be ordering too. Cheap....or make my own

Thx. If too tall then no bueno.

Will a 67 B body small block radiator fit my 68 dart with much issue? 22” auto.

Actually A = aspiration. S=soufflé (blow) thanks for all the input. I decided to make two small notches in my rad support and keep everything as a puller setup. I had to cut off the aluminum brackets I had welded onto the radiator. Picked up more angled aluminum stock to make more brackets...

I'll have to hook up the fan to a multimeter to see if it has any internal capacitors that will prevent me from just switching wires and polarity. Otherwise I can get a polarity reverser but they are pricey. 40 bucks. Still not sure if I would need to flip the fan blades either.

I read that puller fans are more efficient at cooling your engine than having a pusher fan in front of the radiator. I bought a SPAL puller fan and shroud that fits my aluminum radiator. Looks great but the fan motor hits the water pump pulley. I need about 1.25" extra clearance. I don't have...

Nice Johnny. Did Phil give you that tip?

aluminum is not really to expensive you can get a nice one from summit for less than 200. you can make you own bracket or get some that are tig welded on. they work just as good as the super pricey ones without the polishing, which you can do youself. checkout 4secondsflat.com for deals on...

Yeah, this is true. I set my aluminum radiator as far in as possible for clearance before getting the bracket welded on.

I have a milodon 8 blade from summit for my 69 340 block. The milodon P/N for the old style 69 and prior cast iron pump is 16251 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MIL%2D16251&N=700+0&autoview=sku

Yeah check out the US radiator site it talks about the differences between copper and aluminum. There is a neat graphed comparision. They sell both. It's a good read. You'll spend at least $400 for the best radiator from them plus shipping. I could not pass up $170 for a new aluminum rad with...

Check out http://www.usradiator.com/ They have radiators that fit stock applications with extra cooling. I went the 22" aluminum route which was cheaper from FBO

only 2 rows? maybe 3 would help + a shroud? it is pretty darn hot right now though

I have the big mopar performance restoration catalog at home that might have it. I'll check it tomorrow if somebody doesn't come through.

thats the same brackets that I got from FBO. Good stuff. Don has a great price as well.

I have a 69 340 with the stamped timing tab and I have the timing tab from my 273 on there just in case I have issues. The Milodon water pump I got does not seem to get in the way of the driver's side timing cover tab on my 69 340. There may be some good info on this posting 273 to 340 swap...

just ordered mine up from FBO. Thanks for this post. i was on the fence about the radiator issue. Aluminum vs Copper. It was cheaper for me to get a new aluminum one from Don than to get another core added to my original rad. The ones from US Radiator are nice but they want almost $500 :sad...

Good thing you live in Alberta, Canada :salute: It gets up 110* here in the Valleys of LA. I live near the beach but I work in LA and would like to drive to LA in the summers with the top down. Don't think the 2 core stock 273 radiator with shroud will work optimally for my 400+ hp 340. Don't...