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I do have the factory service manual but differentials is the only thing that makes me a little nervous working on. The guy that did the rebuild does nearly all the cars that run at the local drag strip and has done 2 of my other rear ends. This is the first I've ever heard of seen a mishap like...

Yep and after reading it over about 4 times I've ordered the gear compound, dial indicator, and inch pound dial wrench so I can take it apart and check everything. The guy that did the rebuild finally got back to me after my tool purchase and said bring it over on Monday. I just build an 8.75...

Thank you! Im the type of guy that likes to do things the right way. I don't want to grind on my brand new axle shafts or smack them with a hammer to realign the splines. All I wanted was a bit of info on the disassemble and reassemble plus torque specs.

The only reason they recommended removing the thrust block is because my housing is an 1/8" narrower than stock a body.

The video I watched said you did have to take it apart to line up the spline but I also have to remove the thrust block anyways as recommend but the staff at Dr Different.

Borg Warner is a cone style.

The guy that setup my 489 with new bearings and new 3:73s didn't get the splines lined up or removed the thrust block for my new green bearing axles. I was thinking about taking the SG apart to remove the thrust block and realign the splines. Does anyone have a good link to a write up or video...

When I swapped to super stock springs I had to drill out the front hangers for the bigger bolts for the front eyelets. 5/8" I think. I later swapped to a new front shackle that offered a 1" drop. Easy swap. Unbolt the drive line and try to leave it in the transmission till your ready for the...

While I had mine out and apart I did the 1/8 npt drain plug install like they did in one of the magazines.

As an industrial mechanic I have a small container of vasoline in the bottom of my tool box. That's raised a few questions when people go to barrow my drill. I use it to coat pneumatic boots so they don't dry out.

It has a external trans cooler, using lokar kickdown cable, currently running a 245/60R14 in the rear but might go up to a 255 not sure yet as I haven't decided if I will keep the 8.75 at b body length or narrow it a bit.

Yeah if I'm going to spend the money I'd rather do it right the first time. Looks like ill be making a few phone calls and maybe talk to a local trans shop that does a lot of work for the guys that run at the track. Thank you guys for helping me at least narrow down what I'm looking for (all...

So here's the combo so far. 71 360 .030, 10.5:1 kb 107 pistons, stock crank, stock rods, MP purple shaft .484 lift cam, weiand 8007 dual plane intake, 600 cfm vac secondary carb, stock J heads, stock size rockers (new rockers and shafts), 727 trans with street strip shift kit, b body 8.75 489...

Mine was done with the Allen head pipe plug it is offset to the passenger side for clearance of the gear and welds. It sits flush and the housing it fairly thick so I didn't bother welding to build it up. The housing is still apart and will be happy to post pics of the inside and out if you want.

I did mine just like they showed in mopar muscle. I think I went 1/8" npt but don't tap too far in as pipe threads are tappered to help seal.

My buddy who set my the rear in my wives truck said that the motive gears are noisy and recommended yukon so thats what I went with and havent had a problem with them.

I pretty much have the same build and question.

Its actually a combo of three tool sets. The clamp bar is a lisle tool along with its buttons, the flairing tool is from a power built set that had a nice sharp point (unlike the lisle tool set) and the case is from an old set that was worn out since the lisle tool kit didnt come with a nice...

Has anyone double flaired there own tranny lines? I removed the tranny lines from my 68 valiant with a slant six but not without one of them going to the radiator trans cooler being rusted together. About 1.5 inches was removed and cleaned up for reflairing the end. Ive done quite a few double...

Mobil1 or amsoil just my .02. Do a little online research on Lucas and royal purple. Ill never run that stuff again.

Mine sitting in a 5 gal bucket right now weights 77.5 lbs.

It's going to be awhile before I get it in as I'm saving to buy a house. I also followed the article in mopar muscle but did it on a bench with two jack stands and a jack for the pinion with an angle finder. Note a quality angle finder is money well spent. Now I know why mine was given to me. A...

I used the 1/8" npt like the article. 1/8" npt use 21/64 drill bit. Don't run the tap all the way in because they taper and it will give it a better seal. 1/4" npt uses 7/16 drill bit 3/8" npt uses 19/32 drill bit

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/mopp_0912_installing_a_drain_plug_in_the_differential_housing/index.html

Okay all that have done this swap and have welded new perches to the 43" center to center. Did anyone adjust for pinion angle or do you just stick with the factory b body pinion angle? I know I should check what mine is and match it.

Okay so the truck rear measures 59.125 from flange to flange and you said 52.625 so that should be 3.25 off each side?

How much shorter?

In the sa Chrysler performance upgrade book it shows the 51.4" from flange to flange that you spoke of. The pic looks like they mean center to center of the flanges or maybe the inner lip of the axle tube.