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Update: Visited a local gauge repair shop. The owner immeadiatly noticed cracks in the white portion of the odometer on the far right (where the tip of the pen is pointing in the photo). I decided to simply put the speedo back in the dash as is for now. Trying to place some type of glue/adhesive...

The speedo has been acting like this ever since purchased the vehicle more than 10 years ago.

In our '65 Valiant Signet convertible 273 Auto, the speedo works and the tenths on the odometer move like they should. However, the tenths never move the next mile digit so the mileage always stays the same. I removed the speedo and can't see anything wrong from the outside. I doubt there is...

The longer the '65 Formula S sits idly by in the garage without running, the wetter the floor becomes directly under the rear seal at the end of the tailshaft of the original A/T. Drainback from the torque convertor is probably a factor. Regardless, can the seal be replaced without removal of...

In neutral yes. It is midway between full and add lines.

Still trying to determine the amount of leakage day to day. The vehicle had quite a large spot but it had been parked/stored there for a couple of months in the same spot.

The rebuilt 904 in the '65 Formula S is leaking some overnight on the garage floor (from bottom of bellhousing/convertor cover) While idling outside in the driveway, I don't find it dripping. Is that considered "normal" and is it safe to make a roadtrip in this condition? Thank you.

My '65 is getting stuck in park, but only sometimes. Very frustrating.

I forgot the rear axle bearings are not dependent on gear oil for lubrication. The factory "sealed" bearings in this case must be dry after all the years of just sittin' around. For now, I just want to be able to move the vehicle around the yard, so later in the year I will have to pull the...

7 1/4 Rebuild video, not sure if removing the complete brake assembly is necessary if one is only replacing the rear axle bearing.

The sound is the same when one is using a ratchet to tighten a fastener. The ratchet makes that clicking noise on the return stroke. The sound is the same on both axles. Using a stethoscope pressed on the backing plates, I can hear the sound. When I replace the drums and turn the axles, the...

Yes I am.

I know a grinding noise is a symptom of a problem. The 8 3/4 differential swapped into our '65 Formula S turned out to need a rear axle bearing replacement after hearing such a sound. But the clickety, clickety I now hear after pulling the brake drums and turning the axles by hand (this is from...

History: 1965 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S purchased not running. We found the transplanted 318 had a hole burned through the top of one piston. Stock rebuild was done on the 318, re-using the factory AFB and a 1966 four-barrel 273 intake manifold that was installed on the 318. After having...

Right, I have read those a hundred times now, good stuff.

I already drove the vehicle 10 years with the original 904 so I don't believe it's a mismatch of parts, thank you. As I mentioned already, the cables are both adjusted to perfection when I check and recheck 'em.

Just putting things back together on the '65 Formula S and have found a quirk that is going to be a big pain: Although the floor shift cables are both adjusted to perfection, the transmission haphazardly will not release the park sprawl (or whatever you call it). This permits the 904 to engage...

I am experiencing the same problem. Unfortunately, here we experience another thread that leads up to the climax with no solution at the end. Anyone have the answer or can refer to another more "complete" thread? Thank you.

After turning around the '65 Formula S in the driveway for the first time since drivetrain has been re-installed after body restoration, it stopped moving both forward and reverse (just stuck in place). Seems like the park sprag won't release. Going to look at the cable that controls that...

A local Mexican transmission shop "re-built" the original 904 in our '65 Formula S some months ago. Just today got it all buttoned up and see "minor" drips front and rear: a) from the tailshaft (bolt on ball and trunnion set-up) and b) from behind the flexplate cover. I'm not mentally prepared...

Yes. Added another quart ATF and now we have movement back and forth, to and fro.

Update: Raised the four wheels off the ground and installed jack stands for easier access. I did not have a "helper" to hold the gear shift in "low" per the cable adjustment instructions, so I decided to use my previous continuity tester procedure. After marking with white paint the position of...

Performed some more continuity testing this AM and made some progress. I found "N" is found when the gear shift is moved slightly rearward while in reverse. In that spot the tester "beeped" and when I turned the ignition key, the starter motor engaged. So without a doubt the shift cable needs...

I ran a continuity test at the neutral safety switch at the transmission. I first disconnected the wire at the solenoid. I searched for the "beep" sound with my multimeter and found touching the safety switch at the transmission with one lead and grounding the other lead: In park: Beep In...

The trans dipstick shows overfilled with the motor not running.

The '65 Formula S had a transmission "rebuild" here in Mexico during the recent body restoration. After re-installing the engine/transmission, the vehicle sat for a few months. I could roll it in and out of the garage by placing the console shifter in "N" (neutral). When I installed the...

Express Transmission, Stockton, CA

The original poster is still here though (me).

I would like to replace the grommet on the 1965 speedo cable I am repairing with the inner cable. Any updates on correct parts sources or methods on doing this? Thank you.

Putting the two broken pieces of my original inner speedo cable back together, I measured 58 7/8 inches. I see Brewers Performance sells a cable that is advertised as 59 inches (currently "out of stock") which should be the correct length.