Search results for query: *

Got over 10,000 miles on my 340 with 3.91 gears. Motor runs great, no smoke at all. Compression was all even across when I checked it 2 years ago, haven't really drove it much since then. I rev that baby passed 6,000 rpms like every time I drove it and it goes 75 mph on the freeways. I have...

Forged cranks flex less at high rpm's and are easier on the main bearings, less wear, last longer. The 273 engines were designed for going 3,000-4,000 rpms on the freeways and lasting 100,000 miles. They had solid lifters too, very mild cams but the was always upgrade cams available. Then...

I would never use rtv on freeze plugs. Even dry would be better

Why not use 340 factory rods, they be stronger. I snap a 318 rod once.

NO, more RPM"s can make more power. In fact when the limit for racers were 305 cubic inches, nobody stroke the motors and used smaller pistons, they de stroke them and spun the motors to 8,000 RPM's I like to see 2 engines race together, one a 390 with a 5,500 RPM limit and the other engine...

Most times, nope. Unless the ring gaps were too small and engine got too hot and the rings butted. How would too much rpm's break rings, rods or pistons yeah but rings todays gasoline is so 'weak' octane wise, its the likely reason the rings broke, IMO

Is it a street /strip engine or just street ? If just street use, they should be OK. APR makes good stuff, I reused my head bolts a few times and they still torque fine-- Rod bolts are under more stress but for mild street engines, they aren't stressed that much. Keep in mind I'm thinking of...

Wix 51515r with straight 30 oil, Brad Penn....the filter says not street use due to light filtering of the oil but that also means it flows better and that straight 30 oil needs it when the engine is cold. I used to run not street legal 20-50 Val but they stop selling it, did not want any...

My plug is close to perfect, it will foul in cold temps if I let it run under 1,500 too long. The projected plug is the way to go IF you got enough octane for it. My engine was border line with straight pump fuel, most of the time it was OK but not all the time. So I tried non projected plugs...

True expect for pinging it can help/hurt. I wen from a projected plug to a non projected plug and kissed my pinging issues good bye, I'm using racing plugs...NGK R5671A-8, cheap at $3.49 a plug--was $2.49 last year

that might have solid lifters, if so they do tick at times. Exellent point about an exhaust leak Why not run straight 100 for a bit and see if the "pinging" does in fact go all away, if not, it may well be not pinging

Pin drills, and wire gage bits are the only way to open up jets. You only want to go up to the next wire size drill. A set of wire drills close the jet size is the way to go, find the drill that goes in tight and use the pin drill to get the next size drill in the jet. Otherwise you just ruin...

I removed the T stat and it cooled off 10-15 degrees...I know thats a big no no but now it never overheats Edit to add I just have a 340 but that trick is worth trying, IMO

340's like to...need to rev to make the most power. U can run 3.23 gears all day long and it be "OK" but 4.10's would make a big difference...thats why it has double valve springs I got 3.90 gear and expect on the freeway doing 80, I wished it had 4.56 gears. 3.90's are a compromise believe it...

Hmm, I got a stock style Mildon oil pan and it has a baffle welded by the rear of the sump. I run the HV oil pump too and spin my 340 to 6,300. Once I went flat out in top gear for a good bit, I have no problems with it. Did have the short block deburred for better oil drain back and I always...

Nice engine !

Yeah some dealers are OK and some stink. Same with repair shops

Does sound like a good deal however its craigslist, when in doubt, run away.

I had some NOS M/T covers a few years back, took a punch and whack the plugs out. Thought about drilling but then looking really close at them, I could see the metal was a little thin around the plug covers. One good whack got most of the plug out. I laid the cover first on some wood and just...

Give your Duster more gearing, if it has 3.23 gears, give it 3.91's. If it doesn't even have 3.23 gears-like if it has 2.73, 2.94 gears, then that is the problem right there. Built right, the 360 should move that light Duster pretty darn good.

Yeah but its 2 years old, that is pretty old. You need to inspect parts when you get them or have your engine guy check them out. Again, who balanced that engine ? I don't know how engines are balanced, I just know my engine shop said the balancer needs to be sent out with the crank, rods...

Its been awhile since that happen to me :D

Who balanced the engine ? Wounder why they did not notice the balancer being wrong--if it is wrong. I got a Summit brand balancer and it has a place where you bolt a weight on/in it, if its for an external balance engine.

Just buy a cloyes true roller timing set and forget it

I think they are a waste and just something to break-wear out. Buy a $130 chain and gear set and forget the tensioner. I don' want anything rubbing against the chain. Factory came out with them for 100,000 mile smog standards and besides those engines don't scream on the freeways. The 340's...

That's how to do it. Make your own full mark right after you do an oil and filter change and ran it around the block once.

I think a new pan would have help, pans do warp and get distorted

They are based on the old Ford holley carbs with the weak points being improved on. Never tried them but heard good things about them on the Ford forums (I was bored one night, ha ha)

Who wants to bet on the balance job being spot on with Blueprint engines :-D

X2 and get two Carter/Eddies and now it can take on one Holley carb for performance.