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don't know the thickness- look @ Summit pans

piston pic @ the bottom. looks like a carb blade screw imprint

copper is to soft a metal in that app

it my have a crack in the tubing, near the base.

I also lay on old sheet/ cloth over the engine, cut a hole big enough for 1 pair of springs. like a doc in the operating room

did you have an air filter on the engine?

I would start at the source, pull the tank and clean it..

^^^^^^ crank to cam ratio is 2 to 1 turn the crank again. it will then be dot to dot

I use the ARP stud kit with 12 point nuts have a socket, I machined down the outer diameter of a socket for clearance

here's the pic I was looking for the other day

2 bottom holes are blind. upper right is wet. Make SURE on bolt length.!!!! upper right if bolt is too long, it will damage cylinder bore if forced.. Had a block gave to me had to sleeve the #1 cylinder to repair the damage if you have the core plug out on the right / front you can see where...

Same here...lol many years ago, I replaced the water pump on a VAN, as I re-filled the radiator, was reminded I had left that bolt out.. Never again ..lol lesson learned as I took it all apart to install that bolt hiding behind the pump inlet

If that is the correct bore size ? What are you using for a head gasket ?

I like to scribe the heads- remove sharp edges and to blend the head to the bore

I used the 6017 head for a 340 project

what about stacking the head gaskets you got... check p-v clearance. then decide, cut pistons or purchase cometic gaskets, Hate to see you cut the pistons, then not have enough p-v clearance

I don't know what I'm babbling about, (I'm 60) before the internet, all we had was what someone MIGHT share, and a few books. so, it's good to see discussions like this. Anyway, I just refreshed a stroker (4 years - idle or wide open) reason to pull it was preventive maintence and hitting the...

yes

I've done a few, does it help anything???? haven't had any failures > full time oiling. tapped into the oil sending unit gallery

as stated> studs, a good balance on the rotating assembly and stay out of detonation

looks like a blown head gasket on that cylinder- cylinder then got fuel washed.. I would put the heads back on- to pressure test (leakage test). before pulling the pistons. also what does the intake ports in the head look like > intake sealing >sucking oil

being in a drag car is engine up to temp before the run? what weight oil? I convert all my drag engines to full time oiling. by blocking the oil from cam to heads, then reduce the oil going to the cam. next drill the lifter gallery for oiling to the heads

are the valve covers, hitting the intake? causing the valve covers not to seal

I know the ? was about 4.125 I have 2 engines 446 / airwolf heads, and a 449 with Indy w-2 heads both 4.250 stroke, they both went together easy with just a slight notching of the bore bottoms for rod clearance he will have the pistons custom built for YOUR block > deck height, also for cam...

Cometic Gaskets- can make you any thickness you want

I couldn't find a 876 found a 875 > middle of page Casting Numbers: Mopar Oil Pan Specifications 1961-1980

have you tried the auto parts stores I got one for my 340 last year from Orielly's

Smith brothers pushrods will send you the checker, then you send it back they make your pushrods Manton pushrods is closer to you, they may also do the same Or you can buy them from Summit, jegs, mancini, etc I bought a pair of each for small block, big block, to make setting up valve train...

build with the lightest bob weight you can stay out of detonation I have a 446 > airwolf heads > 6.67 et and a 449 > Indy heads > 6.50 et They could go faster, but, I short shift and keep the rpms below 6000 @ the line. I don't need to set a speed record, just out there to have "Fun" Mid 6's...

verify exactly where it is leaking could be under the by pass hose or the fitting if it was just installed Did you double check all bolts are tight> just asking