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If all else fails then RTFM. Lots of good information in them!

I have the correct set in the garage with 1800 miles on them that are yours for the asking just pay for the ride.

Welcome

I'm with ya on this one. I run them and like them.

You are right on with the input shaft moving in and out. My steering box had play with input shaft motion was so bad there was no fix. I found a good box to replace and it drove like a new car.

I did the same swap and my six centerlink was good to go. I think it's just the early years you have trouble with like 66/67 on down.

Also look at your steering wheel and center your centerlink and make sure steering wheel is centered up. Make all your tierod adjustments at this point and lenths will be more equal. You didn't mess anything up and you will be good to go to aligement shop.

Thanks Jim

I hope this is not one of those dumb questions But will a stock swaybar fit onto my 71 Duster with calipers on the front side of the front axle? How about after market bars? I don't want to tear front end down to switch sides to get brakes on backside of axle.

There is one for sale for $100 on here right now.

Yep I have one will send to you for shipping. PM your address.

I think I have one on a junk box you can have. I'll go look.

I got XHD and they don't sag but they are old stock not from Mexico. I don't know if I would order anythng from MP anymore.

Great news Mark. Glad you fixed it w\o alot of hassel or money.

Mark I had same problem with my Duster after I had gone through front end. I did balljoints up and down as well as tierod ends and uca bushings and cam bolts. My problem was gearbox itself. No amount of ajusting helped it. Changed to manual box with adaptor on stearing column. At 60 I can let go...

How much rubb are you getting? Maybe small spacer might fix? This should not happen with stock factoy rims. These OEM rims?

Manual box is the same fits all cars.

Gearbox is the same. Pitman arm is not. I don't know what yaer box you have but 71 should be small sector.

If you want to run air shocks run a line to each shock so you can adjust them independantly. That way you can run more air in one to even out.

You just crank that nut on and it is a taper. I think 1/4 inch left at top after pitman arm bottoms is normal. That's about what shows on mine.

I don't think gearbox cares at all what pump is running it. I don't know if you have room for PS and 440 under the hood. Maybe some of the other members can tell you the have BB cars.

If your happy with the way it sits leave them alone but while rear is out check all your bushings in your springs. Mine were shot.

I have 71 Duster with power steering. Box is shot and is the small sector. Parts dealers list it when you go to order it they can't get it. If I can find small sector manual box would this be a bolt on? I have ordered ps box and can get later 73 up but then all the pitman and center link need...

I would get rid of the 9 inch drums fast. IMO don't let your wife and kids hit highway speeds in that car. You got to preplan your stops. I know people drove them for years but I won't.

Dot #5 here. My old 70 Duster with kh 4-piston calipers had to be torn down evry spring out of winter storage. No problems with dot 5.

Good luck on your developing welding skills and remember that mig welder doesn't like to weld on rust. When you get to the frame rails make sure you grind them clean. If you have heat build up problems with argon try 90/10 mix argon/co2 it will weld a little cooler for filling any gaps.

Yep- I'll bet your right. I made this rear up out of parts to replace7 1/4 going south. I did not check center section. Thanks mullinax95

I have adj brgs on my 8 3/4 axles. I installed them drivers side first which was bolted in and torked to spec. I installed pass side w\ adjuster and left about.012 to .018 end play. I drive the car and hear brg noise on driver side of rear end. As I drive and make right hand turn noise will go...