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We are closing in on getting our project completed - 6 years roughly from buying the donor Here it is lately (and you can go back in the thread to see how it looked back when) http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=93184&page=3

After the engine and chassis electrical got sorted out, the dash we had been planning for 3 years went together You can see the steering column harmonica connector converted to a Weatherpack for ISIS left turn, right turn, and horn inputs. The column is a "no key" 67 Dart column restored and...

We are kinda nuts around here about Mopar electrical. Probably because for all of Ma Mopar's great engineering, it was probably the least well engineered system on the vehicles, particularly when we are looking at it 50 years after the fact. Actually, its more than 50 years after the fact...

The wheels are Rushforth Design. After we decided on size, offset, and finish; he builds you a custom wheel. Only issue we had is he uses a lot of contract shops ie CNC cutting the centers, hoops, weld, and powder coat which is fine but it is a low volume supply chain and takes time. In a...

These are sweet. FABO find. Worth the hassle to get everything mocked up - aluminum tank filler in 2" tubing, stock filler pipe (cut down), marine 2" ID rigid fuel pipe.

We really put a lot into getting this exhaust to work. Started on it a couple years ago and got stopped by clearance trying to work cutouts into the area forward of the X pipe. Its pretty busy in there on an A body and while anything is possible, it was going to be a time sink. Caused a...

Here is how the arse end came out with the custom tank. We had it fabbed to stock but WITHOUT the spare seat area. This thing by my rough calcs is around 30 gal. Power Tour?

Thanks to all who have appreciated on the progress. Following posts will give a glimpse into more of the finished product. We got slowed down by what can only be described as a demon in the engine build. It is not our first setback, having already had a block that was supposedly fulled checked...

Followers of this thread - thanks for your interest and patience. We will post some more completion pics as we near getting it on the road.

Here are a couple updates of the rear back under the car; fresh from overhaul with new Richmond 3.55 street gears, a new Nitro sure grip posi, Moser axles and Wilwood disc brackets

Sireland, tunnel mods on hold until I install the motor, tranny, and Alterktion and everything is in place. Then I'll take the removed floor section, split it into two halves on the trans centerline and tack them back in place on the sides. Then I will try to "close the book", working the halves...

Thanks to everyone above for all the props and interest in following the thread. Finally getting the kinks out of my install of custom Hot Rod City fuel tank. Since we cut the spare tire well out of the new trunk floor and designed the fit for everything around a flat floor, I had the tank...

Now that I can hang the 8 3/4 and start Street Lynx work, things are getting wrapped up at the rear

And to catch up some more the gull wing goes on and dash frame goes back in

Didn't seem like there was a lot of interest in following a bunch of rust repairs and welding!!! SO I went away and kept working on the project and put time spent on FABO to good use. Here it is back from paint. If ever there was a body style for FY1 Yellow this is IT!

Sorry, thought you had the stroker kit. You still have a lot more breathing than that cam is taking advantage of, but I wont go farther on my opinion than "depends"; as you know on carburetion, gearing, weight, tranny, tire size, and ultimately what you want to drive it mostly for. Definitely...

Slappy that cam is pretty mild for 408 stroker. Duration specs OK but it is shy on lift for the cubes and ported Ed top end you have. For street strip you can comfortably go into the .510 - .520 range around that duration and still make low end and reasonable idle. Hughes engines can give you a...

Its tied - as a system, the Magnum Force brace has 3/16 top plate on top of welded-up front frame rail to XV lower rad support

Thanks for the props. Yep I'm going through a lot of MIG gas and wire on a lot of seams. The floorpan repair is all plug welded, but I also ran a lot of beads on the pinch weld and along the perimeter. For really stiffening up the A body tho you set up the next batch of pics on the Magnum...

This is what they supply with directions to use screws or pop rivets to cover the hole cut to the template they supply. If I wanted it to look like Jethro Bodine did the job that is exactly what I'd do. You probably are referring to Bill Reilly's BigBlockDart.com story on putting a Viper T56 in...

A number of mini-projects finished as progress continues. Here are pics of the crossmember mod required by the Hurst/Classic Tremec installation. The transmission decision discussion is for a whole other time, but basically a TKO600 kit cost about 25% more than a 833 by the time everything was...

Eastwood 2K ceramic chassis paint, avail in satin and gloss, catalyzed 2 part product, very very durable http://www.eastwood.com/undercar-drivetrain/undercar-coatings/eastwood-2k-ceramic-chassis-black.html It is available in kit form also with an epoxy primer base, with the great tooth your...

Tore into the tail end to get the tail light panel, trunk extensions, and trunk extension caps out. I'm keeping the trunk floor loose until everything goes back together; it is easier to work underneath without it. Continuing with the fabrication and welding tasks, here is pic of the Street...

Before I could put the floor pan in permanently I wanted to fit check and install the subframe connectors. I'm using some pretty generic one's from Auto Rust Technicians that they package as a kit with their torque boxes. Because of the beating the leading edge of the rear frame rail area has...

Joe, I actually bought the subframe connectors as a package with torque boxes front and rear from Auto Rust Technicians. They are pretty basic square tube design like old super stock Dart factory racer note, but they are heavy wall and have nice slot for ebrake cable, sculpted end to meet rear...

Thanks for pointing me to your prior post; nice job on that electrical thread. My Chall above has much the same configuration, only difference is I used a Painless battery disconnect relay at trunk mounted battery and another master disconnect (a 200 amp Marinco manual disconnect) under the...

Keith, Thanks for the encouragement. I am just getting into the A-body thing after lurking in E-body world

Before we took the car to the blaster I thought it would be a good idea to open up as much frame rail area as possible so they could shoot media "where the sun don't shine". I'm putting up some pics of the trunk pan under way, ultimately the car will get trunk floor, trunk extensions, lower...

Yeh, its nice and strong, LOL ..I didn't exactly have any twig lumber lying around. Other than the casters it can support house construction kind of loads. I sleep better too, because my son and I spent so many hours under that thing scraping and wire wheeling the undercoating the last thought I...

It can't move Grant. To locate the body I used a stack of washers (8 high or about 1") .875 OD, with a 5/16 bolt through them at the dowel holes in the forward and rear frame rails. If you look close in the forward frame rail area of the first photo in the "Replacing a floor pan" post above you...