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Here it is, the job is finished and working perfectly. I was able to locate the appropiate lever arm for the transmission. The stud one is the original, the one I required is next to it. Same length, and almost the same angle of the D hole. This way an OEM part is saved for future use by me or...

Luv the Ford XL3, decent price too. Doctor Diff, is letting it set over night after mixing on jack stands as good as doing figure 8's?

Personally I believe RTV should be BANNED from automotive work; seen similar crap on cars serviced for pay. Sparingly applied is sparingly done. Great!! Patience gets it in the end and no broken parts, tools, or temper.

Did you check gear pattern, backlash? Anytime, ANYTIME, you change one thing in a gearing system, something else also changes. Pre-load is bearing preload only, even allowing drag from a seal. Doing it with axles installed has thrown the readings to the wind. I would check for pattern...

That's the quandry I'm in, I do not know at this point. Just the TF727 had 4 levers and lengths depending on A body, B body, big block or small, and/or model year, etc. My parts list shows 3 for Belvedere, Coronet, Fury, Polara, depending on engine etc; the Dart shows 2 depending on 6 or 8...

Nothing in the package. I searched earlier a week? ago and didn't find much that matched, or an upper link before I went Lokar. Now is seems there is some out there, maybe my search string improved. The thing I noticed is the angle of the D clamp and arm length seems to match better than...

Score! Some searching this afternoon turned up results. CUDA DART CHARGER 727 904 KICK DOWN LINKAGE LEVER ARM MOPAR It appears to be a duplicate of mine minus the pin on the end; and the hole to mount the ball stud.

With thanks to others for their informative help on my Dart's shade tree throttle/kickdown lash-up; I've purchased a complete Lokar kickdown, throttle, and spring return components. Right now it looks like I may need another arm for the valve body kickdown shaft. The OEM one has a pin swaged to...

Great! I would like to see the service manual. Thanks! $40/gal !? That's a bit steep.

What service manual are you guys using? Mine shows as follows; Warm-(whatever Chrysler meant by warm) 140wt, Moderate- 80-90wt, Cold- ATF type A I've found the 80-90wt GL1 gear oil is the best all around oil for manual transmissions, or 50wt straight weight engine oil which has the same...

Any grease rated NGLI # 2 will work over broad temperatures. Look for #2 on the tube, it's probably the only available anyway; unless you go to a fleet jobber.

I've used driving wedges. Thin, fine tapered, and sharp. Get some cheapy stiff gasket scrapers like Performance Tool and cut the handles off, leave a stub to hammer with. Carefully, very carefully, drive a wedge in just a bit. Keep working around, carefully deeper, and slowly, not gouging...

Thanks for the ideas. I had plan A: bearing splitter and puller, plan B: cut-off wheel to notch the bearing. Plan A worked reel guud, but almost couldn't get the splitter in on the bolt side, but enough that it worked. On to new bearings.:cheers:

I found bad carrier bearings in my 65 Dart with a 7 1/4 rear. I have a small compliment of differential bearing pullers, but there's nothing for them to safely grab onto. The manual shows the Miller tool for the job, pretty nifty, and maybe if I'm lucky I'll find a used one. What do you guys use?

Don't tolerance rings need a machined bore for a specified clearance and to hold them? Especially since there's axial loads on a wheel bearing. I've never used one, so I'm asking. What I've done is restored a wheel bearing housing with an industrial epoxy such as Belzona. Good stuff, this...

Yup, sure do.

I'm fairly new to Mopar, please bear with me. I have a 65 Dart GT with a 273 V8, 904 auto, with a 7.25 diff 2.93:1 ratio. The diff needs an overhaul, and I figure this would be a good time to go from open to limited slip. A Shure-grip,(Powr-Lok?) is impossible to find at least for this diff...