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They are the same pitman arm from 67-72 on all engines

The is a pretty healthy supply of 68-72 6 cylinder K frames out there. I throw away several a year (or sell them for $25) which is what I also get for the bracket. Anyway the bracket is tack welded to the K frame and not extremely hard to change.

I've been told that it's pretty easy to cut the idler arm mount off a 68-69 small block or even 6 cylinder K frame and modify the big block K frame. I've cut off several and sold them to people who were doing it.

If you go to the Schumacher site (engine-swaps.com), they have copies of ALL the step by step instructions for each of their conversion kits. One thing Schumacher does very well is instructions. You can look at the instructions for each kit BEFORE you buy to see exactly what drilling and...

Tom: I have several sets of the A body linkages from a 904 column shift automatic. Many pieces are the same but the Z bar (I've been told) is slightly different. I have successfully modified this linkage to work on a 727 many times and with the headers, you may have to modify it regardless.

Again, it's too much work to make your own! I searched "elephant ears" on ebay and found several sets from new to used for a very good price. Here's a set for $29! (not mine). With these, somebody has already done the engineering for you. Big Block Mopar Motor Mounts Elephant Ears A Body New | eBay

So both mounts need to be moved to the rear of the car. And on a 72 k frame that is gonna be a royal pain to do the drivers side for sure Regardless of how you do it, yes you do have to move both towers. The 440 sits approximately an inch further back. Jim Lusk's method (linked above) works...

You could also put a steel crank in it. It's not uncommon to find good used ones in the $100-150 price range. It's a bolt in swap and especially useful if you ever want to run a standard trans.

The elephant ears make for a rougher ride due to vibration. I once saw a racer who addressed THAT problem by cutting a large hole in the bottom of the ears and pressing in UPPER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS! He welded two pieces of angle iron to the frame rails and ran a bolt through the ears and the...

The 66 New Yorker and 71 Imperial use the same 440 mount brackets as the 66-72 B body and the 70-74 E body. Many many years ago before conversion mounts were available with instructions for $159/pair, we used to do what you propose: Cut the mount ears off of a B or E body K frame (the ears are...

Here's the schumacher instructions on how to modify the left tower. http://engine-swaps.com/Pages/InstructionPages/73andUpV8-BRB.html

I sell a lot of them. Whole complete cast crank motors that ran recently $500-$600. Earlier 66-72 steel crank motors possibly a little more with the good heads. I have a 71 Imp motor with AVS carb,elect dist, 187 pan, automatic trans, complete to the point that I think I can make it run on the...

you could use the "airplane propeller!" http://www.ebay.com/itm/330938784933?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649#ht_3486wt_1119

I realize that this post is 6 months old, but A STEEL CRANK FROM A 66-72 440 WILL BOLT DIRECTLY INTO YOUR LATER BLOCK!!! There are aftermarket steel cranks that will too! THEN your 383 flywheel will fit with no mods. You use the older harmonic balancer and it's all internally balanced just like...

You know? It just occurred to me that if you have a cast crank and a torque converter that's not balanced (weights on the converter) OR you are using the wrong front harmonic balancer (cast balancer on a steel crank motor OR steel crank balancer on a cast crank motor) that thing will vibrate...

The big block 727 was the same length as a small block 727. The factory trans mount from the A body will work fine. If you can find a driveshaft from a 340/727 car it will work too.

Go with a high torque low rpm RV/"pulling" grind.

I always use teh /6 cable. It usually has a half loop but operates fine.

I'm betting that's your problem. Try the stock converter and see if it goes into place. I've been told you can't switch em.

Remember that the lockup and non lockup transmissions use different converters.

Since no one else has make this comment, I noticed you said "66". You don't have a k frame option. There was no "big block" k frame for 66. The 67-76 A body was redesigned with a larger engine compartment and different K frame designs. The 63-66 used the same k frame for either the /6 or...

The 69 440 and 727 will be a good combo for your swap. The New Yorker's oil pan will probably be the correct 187 pan for the swap. The 8 3/4 rear (and yes there is a 99 percent chance it WILL be an 8 3/4) will be way too wide for an A body. After you pull the drivetrain, put the rest of the car...

The crank is one of the best 440 cranks you can run. The rods are the same as 440 as well. The closed chamber heads are great to install the bigger (1.75) exhaust valves in and run on the later 74-77 motors to up the CR. $75 is a very good price.

Remove the steering column to make it easier. The kickdown linkage is the hardest part. Also on a 77 motor, you'll have a cast crank. If you change converters, you'll need a b&M Balanced flexplate http://www.pungoautoparts.com/pungo%20ii/Product.aspx?PartNumber=B3210237 or it will vibrate like a...

BTW The A body left side mount was also used on big block C bodies in the 64-65 era.