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Have you thought about using the C pillar/rear window/roof area from a 4 door for the rear of the "cab"? Given some thought to doing this myself...

Glad somebody had a happy birthday. Can't help you much with your dangling wires but I do see a ground strap missing in the 3rd pic. There is supposed to be a braided copper ground strap running from the bottom stud on the wiper motor to the engine. You can see what is left of it under the nut...

Nice find and that engine is really clean. Hook it up to a '76 Cherokee? Here's some food for thought. Many, many moons ago I was a lineman for Ma Bell. We had a '72 Dodge 3/4 ton companion wagon (Dodge chassis W/A utility bed) that was a 2 wheel drive, 318, granny 4 speed, Dana 60 with 4.10s...

Sorry, my bad. Just went back and took a good look at the block. Forget the '18 reference, thought you were putting one in to get mobile for some reason (CRS moment). I will say this however. Having been involved with one clutch explosion, I will never have a car that is expected to see more...

If you're gonna replace the '18 down the road, why spend $$$ on a bellhousing that ain't staying with the car for long? A stocker will do the job for a lot less than a Lakewood. The only Lakewood I would be buying would fit a 440...

You can get the parts you need to rebuild your column here http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/lostcoha.html among other places. Carry on with your work, I have a bucket to catch the drool...

You'll like the master cylinder. Ran across it when I bought my '74 Charger new and wondered how come the booster was missing the first time I popped the hood to check the oil. Been on every Mopar I've owned since...

That's a lot of work just to run a Blowtie part on a MOPAR...

Ain't saying you gotta use them, but you could sell them for enough to make the difference between a set of Hooker fenderwells or a set of Doug's chassis exit...

How you fixed for exhaust? I've got a set of 273 manifolds ("66 Cuda) I'll send you if you need them...

Did you notice the mileage in your last post? '67 273.... That swap ought to make Victoria hump up and git. LOL

There's the problem right there. What ever possessed you to think it would ever be DONE? Closest I've ever come in 41 years was close enough to live with until I can come up with more money to do what I want to it. I've caught myself making plans while watching them roll off the transporter at...

Hope they didn't catch anything nasty from all those Rustangs. Good save.

If you're happy with it, I'm pickled tink.

Actually wylde1 bought it in a fundraiser auction (think it was for Joe) and had me ship it to you.

Here is what the fender tag is telling me: V L Low line 2 door coupe (stripper Duster). 2 9 C 225 slant six 5 1975 model year B Hamtramck assembly plant If nothing else, it would almost be worth it for the BBP discs and rear end for Victoria. Don't see this one...

Yeah, A body MOPARS. How many Shovels, Goats, Gutlesses, etc. have you seen here? What pisses me off is the total lack of respect for MaMopar shown here. When funnycarfarmer did his build of a Dart Gasser, he told us our sister was working in a brothel, but he had enough respect not to force us...

I've seen a lot of stuff on this site but this is the first time I have seen someone feature a Blowtie engine in his car and another guy compliment him on his engine choice. HELLO!!!! This is a Mopar site!! If you want a Nova, get one and take it to a Chevy site. :angry7::angry7:

Toot toot? I don't think so. It should be more like BWAAAAAAAAHHHHHHH!!! You're doing more with a broomstick and a block of wood than I could ever do with a shop full of tools. Great work and great thread. Your wife is a keeper since she lets you put rusty parts on the dining room table without...

You could always cheat and get right hand thread studs for about a buck each at your local parts store.

Looks like slim pickin's. Best I could come up with was www.dvautoparts.com. Be prepared to give up your first born and quite a few body parts. They want $400 for a '67 Barracuda front fender.

You have a truck rear end based on the fact that the spring perches are on top of the housing. Shouldn't be too hard to have the housing cut down, the perches moved, and you can use stock A body axles since they were all the same width. There was a post here that had a good chart of axle widths...

Hate to pee in your cornflakes, but who's going to narrow the rear end for you? If I'm reading the tape right it's just a tad too wide and the spring perches will need to be moved as well. The 7 1/4" rear in Hester measured 52" housing end to housing end and it looks like yours is 57 3/4" to me...

Look on the bright side, at least you didn't get a mouthful of that crap trying to siphon it out of the tank. It tastes a lot worse than it smells. Don't ask.

When you put it back together, do yourself a favor and go with '68 windshield rubber and trim. The '67 setup did nothing but leak. That is the cause of all the rust in the under dash area. Great start though, and the original color does look good on the car.

Look on the bright side. At least you don't have to wait 2 or 3 months for your chest to heal enough to drive a car. For sure you can make it next year in YOUR car. Don't rush things for an imaginary deadline, you'll regret it. I know it's frustrating but keep plugging away and you'll get there...

The breaks run '63-'66, '67, '68-'72, and '73-'76. '63-'66 used a different center link for /6s and V8s. Also had the small sector steering box. '68-'72 used the small sector steering box as well and the same center link for /6s or V8s. The '67 used its own idler arm so I put it in its own...

Gotta drill two holes on each side of the tranny tunnel for the bucket seat track. There are already dimples in the floor to go by. The outside of the buckets uses the holes for the bench seat tracks.