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absolutely...i completely restored and repaired the factory undercoating this time and it was a lot of work removing years of mud etc. I coated it with 3 separate products to make it look original. Almost as much work as removing, priming and overspraying which is also a factory finish.

i've done it both ways.If you want a quiet ride undercoating is better. But really it's up to you.

if you only need an inch could you just buy some 18 gauge sheet metal, cut and shape it?

one hinge has come off

as for blocks i bought a 36" Dura block and cut a 20", 12" and 4" on my bandsaw. And cut the ends at the correct angle too lol. apparently the linear blocks will "pinch" your fingers. I have made a few odd shaped blocks from ordinary items like paper towel cores or whatever.

They use PPG VP 2050 but it is the same as CRE X21.You can see the finish it will provide you with. As i said it sands nicely but not as easy as the soft polyesters. .

Sylvesters customs have some good videos on sticking with this product start to finish. I've been using a 1.7 tip, 26 psi. and use an additional 10% reducer.It sprays nice, goes on thick, is tough and dries lo gloss allowing you to see how straight your body work is. This is my first body and...

I'm using PPG CRE as well on the whole car start to finish...even for the hi build before final blocking! I've heard good things about it from trusted body shops. It isn't super easy to sand, but it's not difficult either. How does it stand up...I'll tell you in a few years.It's currently on the...

most anything to balance with a 2 x 6 on top but under the door. It's a real camel race for sure. Once lined up drill two 1/8" holes on both sides of each hinge. This will allow you to remove and replace in the future fairly accurately using a 3" finishing nail in each hole to realign when re...

originals are not too difficult to rebuild but maybe that's not something you guys would like to do.I think a bushing and pin kit for one complete door (2 hinges) is 7 or 8 bucks

from about 1964 to at least late eighties. '68 were one year only black buttons. Go to your mopar dealer and order a pair for an 80's pick up truck or Rock Auto used to have them for around 20 bucks each. o.e. parts are getting harder to find now.

These guys use PPG VP2050 it is quite expensive.CRE is the same PPG product but much cheaper. I think Mark Worman and many hi end shops also have gone to VP2050 start to finish. 2 or 3 coats will provide a very thick surface for final blocking. It also dries with a lo luster so you can see any...

Since my post has been resurrected here is an update. I have been priming as work progresses and using PPG CRE epoxy. Weeks and even months later it sands beautifully. Sprays nice with a 1.7 tip and is very thick. I plan on using CRE for hi build as well for final blocking. Reasonably priced and...

How fussy are you...i know guys that remove all but a tiny bit because they want it to look better? I'd remove and replace it properly if it's deteriorated.

I am using only CRE epoxy start to finish for everything including my last high build coats...nothing else. Then final paint.

i've been getting into body and paint lately. You can spend a lifetime sorting out out the products and painting methods and advice that are out there nowadays. Go ask one of your local painters for advice...but only one!

Tx guys...I thought that's all that would be required but I didn't know what the stuff is actually made of?

I acquired some suspension components that have been powder coated "lipstick black". I want to put the correct factory finish on them.Is there anything special required to refinish items that have been powder coated? ...and were factory disc brake components ever painted or just left raw metal...

That looks fantastic! Great job!

Your over thinking this. Any of the major manufacturers products will do what you want. I use Liquid ice and 3 pads

Replace the skin by drilling the spot welds and removing the seam solder.I think passing the grinder down the drip rails helps. There are you tube videos on this and it doesn't look difficult but i have never done it.

No doubt about it. DTM or epoxy primer on bare metal or quality primer on properly prepared painted surfaces. As for rattle can primer and enamel...most would shudder at the thoughts of that. I hate to admit it but i have done that with good results that stood up well. Spray cans can be made up...

No need to worry about sanding epoxy anymore. New epoxies are very user friendly. Some shops don't even use high build anymore because newer epoxies are high build and sand easy. This allows the use of one product for everything.

Roll on looks like a great idea and i think you could do it with any primer once the viscosity is right. As long as you use a quality DTM epoxy you will get great adhesion and corrosion protection.Don't worry about a perfect finish you will be sanding it anyway. Would just save so much work...

I think a lot of guys could but just lack confidence or facilities. But still, i'm sure a lot of guys just are not interested in that part of the hobby and that's OK. It's not for everybody

You are almost always better off to do it yourself.

Easy, grind or file away where there is no gap and mig the edges where there is too much gap. Make sure you massage the correct edge.

i've seen a couple that are show straight...it's a long 16 feet. They weren't perfect from the factory. Not aspiring for cut / polish / show. I'm ok with nice and a bit of factory orange peel on the sides. ...but were the original body lines sharp? Where my original lines are not disturbed they...

re-visiting this post. ....i'm doing the bodywork on my 68 right now and this post made me checkout the lines on my car. I've stripped the body completely to bare metal and my original lines are quite soft. So now i'm wondering how sharp and defined they were originally. At this stage i can...

Those lines can be brought back with metal working tools