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How did that occur? The ends aren't round.

Make sure you didn't damage the pump lines.

Won't hardly matter. Run them in until they contact the lever, look at how much you have left of the bolt and turn them in about half that. At least the car won't be sitting on the stops when you drop the engine and trans in.

Some of them will need a sealant and some will not. People use all sorts of stuff, from permatex, to teflon pipe dope to just blue lock-tite.

Last line post nine. Just slipped it in as an afterthought, when I figured out how new this all seemed to you. Was wondering whatever became of this. A lot of times people get it figured out and you never hear another word.

Oh, I know who that was.

If one end or the other is turning in the mounts, it won't jack up. If the torsion bar is broke, same thing. Maybe it is just weak, which may explain why someone let the car down, just to keep it level. Jack it up, take the wheel off after supporting the car, then crank the bolt as tight...

The orange bolt head is the adjuster. Looking up from the lower control arm.

Basically the only thing you need to do to raise the vehicle is tighten the adjustment bolts, one on each side. Turn them clockwise. A little penetrating oil may be needed. They are easier to turn if you support the car with jack stands with the wheels off the ground. I'll see if I can get a...

I just use silicone spray. Started this same routine yesterday on a b-body, haven't got to the install part yet, I like to be careful not to damage the bars. I used silicone on the anti-sway bar and the bushings just went on with a minimum of trouble. You just have to look at it closely and...

LOL. I was thinking the cheapest way would be to take some weight off it.

If your not gonna fix it, keep it well greased in the socket. Too much is not enough. If it is dry I think the bar would break.

My Dart bangs the floorboard with the exhaust pipe once in a while.

I would start at the tires also. I have seen cars shake because water got in the tires. I'll rule out ice on the wheels since you are in Fl.

The Burger King get what you want days are about over. It's take what you get. I've seen shops that get a guy on each side of the car to pull on the wheels, and when it goes into spec another guy hits the print button.

Spray a little silicone on them and use previous method, or invent your own. I used channel locks, popped right together.

Well I guess I was wrong once. Let me try again. Is this a power steering car? Like I said, most of this stuff may not help if this problem occurs when the car is motionless. Try taking the belt off, or you could take it out of gear and bring the engine speed up a bit when braking or turning.

If what you say is true about feeling this sitting still on occasion, most of these posts may not help you. I'd start with the steering column. If the engine idles radically it may really be you shaking the wheel and feeling a bad coupler.

What do you mean no more rebound? I thought that is what shocks were supposed to control.

I could see a way or two to do it, but it would become more and more difficult as the amount of travel went up. If you limit the travel, you make the ride as stiff as a board, but it would become easier. Too little travel and you will have created a go cart. Another possibility would be to use...

How far have you thought this out. In my minds eye I see all kinds of strange hook ups. Probably a hundred ways to do it, but I'm not sure it's worth it for a car. I could see it working on twin I-beams say on a Ford truck but the back seems difficult. Some geeky engineer could probably pull...

Not a problem, they came with an 8 3/4 I bought. Guy just threw them in. He wasn't sure and neither was I. If they were SS I would put them on my saggy '74 and then build a 340. I'll find a set somewhere, no rush, I have a '68 B-body that has been taking up a lot of my time.

Yes, they are both the same number and I think you are probably right. Most likely springs for '70 Dusters with the six or the 318. I've done a little searching and that's the best I can figure. Thanks for chiming in.

A half leaf would end at the perch. Check out the spring pics in this thread. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=281640&highlight=1%2F2+leafs one spring on link may have 5 1/2, hard for me to tell.

These are supposed to be SS A-body springs, but now I'm not so sure. The SS springs seem to have 4 1/2 leafs and these clearly have five full springs. Part number search on this site came up zilch. Part # is 3400072. Any input would be good.

I've found that the little rubber bumpers get in the way of the arm going down as far as possible.

Less throttle. Sorry.

If you defined handle a little better you could get more responses. The car is engineered to carry its weight in all types of conditions. Gravel dirt, pavement, straights, curves, hills, under acceleration, heavy braking, comfort, speed, noise, etc. Gaining a little on one thing will mean...

Any chance you could find the previous owner and ask him what he did?

If you have checked the entire suspension and steering, and the brakes, maybe you need to look at the frame or K-member. I have had cars with cracked frames act like this. Instead of just looking at the bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints etc. you should also check the components themselves...