New and in need of help

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crc67dart

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Hello all,

I am new here and just purchased a 1967 Dodge Dart GT. Car is in relatively good shape however the previous owner attempted to lower the car by letting the torsion bars all the way down on the bump stops. In an attempt to fix this stupidity I have realized that the pass. side will not lower down at all. I'm assuming that it is the lower control arm bushing has seized up. Any additional info and suggestions on parts etc would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
 
Its down on the bump stops and wont lower down.... ok I'm confused. Anyway, Stock rubber arm bushings are pressed together. So once all the nuts are tightened, the only movement is in flex of the rubber. Ride height adjustment should be set up before final tightening of the nut on lower arm pivot pin.
 
I'm confused as well. Are the adjustment bolts frozen up?

You have a shop manual? Wander over to MyMopar and download one, free

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

Also, and a big hint, here, "help" or "need help" is never a good thread title. Even something as generic as "front end" or "suspension" would be a better "key"
 
Basically the only thing you need to do to raise the vehicle is tighten the adjustment bolts, one on each side. Turn them clockwise. A little penetrating oil may be needed. They are easier to turn if you support the car with jack stands with the wheels off the ground. I'll see if I can get a pic of the adjuster.
 
crc67dart said:
Hello all,

I am new here and just purchased a 1967 Dodge Dart GT. Car is in relatively good shape however the previous owner attempted to lower the car by letting the torsion bars all the way down on the bump stops. In an attempt to fix this stupidity I have realized that the pass. side will not lower down at all. I'm assuming that it is the lower control arm bushing has seized up. Any additional info and suggestions on parts etc would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...


Just make sure you support the car on jack stands while you are under it adjusting the ride height.
 
The orange bolt head is the adjuster. Looking up from the lower control arm.
 

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Hi, and thanks for the replies, still learning how to use this forum and didn't know you had replied. I apologize for the confusion, to answer some of the questions yes the car is sitting on the bump stops, when I raise the car the driver side tire lowers down like it should, the pass. side stays in place and does not move at all, the torsion bolts are not seized up I believe that it is the control arm itself that will not allow the suspension to move. I have attempted to tighten them to adjust the ride height and the driver side works fine but the pass. side will not lower at all with the torsion key adjuster bolt. I have tightened it some but do not want to continue until I know that the suspension can move freely. I will try to post some pictures shortly to help you see what I am talking about. I have a feeling the lower control arm bushing has seized up on the lower control arm and is preventing suspension travel. I have had a ton of cars over the years but this is my first Mopar. I love the car and I plan on having more so I definitely want to make sure I do it right. Also I was wondering if anyone had advice on changing it over to a coil over system, cost effective but also quality... that's the name of the game right? Thanks again for your help
 
It is on the bump stops, the torsion key bolts are not seized but the pass. side will not lower at all when you raise the vehicle. It seems like the lower control arm bushing is seized. Have you heard of this?
I will try to post some pics shortly.
 
If one end or the other is turning in the mounts, it won't jack up. If the torsion bar is broke, same thing. Maybe it is just weak, which may explain why someone let the car down, just to keep it level. Jack it up, take the wheel off after supporting the car, then crank the bolt as tight as you dare. you decide. Then get a large lever and gently pry the control arm down. Between the lever and the bar maybe you will at least be able to free it up. I wouldn't put my head under the control arm, it could go down all at once. You could even put a stand about an inch under the arm so as to limit its travel. If it goes down a little, you could jack it back up, then let it down a little more than the first time. Sort of just ease it down instead of trying to move it six inches in one direction all at once. And look for things that may be binding the suspension. I've seen blocks of wood stuffed in some. I would undo the shock if it is on, just to eliminate it from the equation.
 
Hi guys,
Figured out what it was and I forget who mentioned it but the shock itself was seized up in the fully compressed position. Removed shock and the suspension dropped and now I have replaced both front shocks and have the car at a proper ride height and aligned up. Also thanks for the heads up on the subject title. I am sure I will be back for more help down the road.
 
Magnum dart,
If you were the one I want to say thank you very much! Eventually looking to change the entire front suspension and steering but just needed to get it right for the time being.
 
Last line post nine. Just slipped it in as an afterthought, when I figured out how new this all seemed to you. Was wondering whatever became of this. A lot of times people get it figured out and you never hear another word.
 
I Remer it seeming a bit of an afterthought but I did pay attention. I have worked on a ton of GM and Ford stuff but I am very new to the Mopar world but I have always loved the cars and finally got one of my own. Needs some work here and there but it will get there. I greatly appreciate your help and just got it fixed the other day (not enough hours in the day to work on my own stuff)

I know it is off topic but the car has. 360 in it and need to replace the header gaskets. With it having headers it has header bolts not studs. Am I correct that these need thread sealant because of going directly into a cooling galley? Thanks again for your help!!!
 
Some of them will need a sealant and some will not. People use all sorts of stuff, from permatex, to teflon pipe dope to just blue lock-tite.
 
I just learned the other day that the four outermost exhaust manifold bolts, the one on each end on each head, are supposed to be studs and they go into a water channel. The other four bolts are bolts and don't need sealing.

Also, the studs should have specialthick, conical washers, at least for the original exhaust manifolds.

I hope I'm right, I am in no ways an expert but I heard it from a pro.
 
The four ends need sealer (Teflon tape, Teflon paste, silicone, or about anything you like that seals threads)

Do yourself a favor and get Remflex hedder gaskets the first time. :)
They are a bit more than the general gasket, but worth every penny when you don't have to replace them again.
 
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