Is it possible to drive a car 50 miles with a bad lower control arm

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If the bushings were shot you would be feeling/hearing clunky noises, and the steering would pull a bit when stopping, and make weird noises that you would feel in the wheel and your foot when sitting still and turning the wheel. My wheel cylinder locked up on the freeway and blew my bushings on the front end. Scary to drive after that, even after I replaced the cylinder as there was all sorts of movement in the front end. Feels like a solid car again after replacing everything.
 
Makes me think you have a sticking brake caliper or clogged brake line. Our Dodge vans use to do it frequently.

The brake pad drags just enough to get hot, then when you apply the brakes it sounds horrible and vibrates because the disc is hot.

Drive some and see if you can smell or feel one side getting too warm.

Otherwise might be in the suspension.
 
jerry6 said:
I drove 75 miles at 60 mph with no vibration , unless i hit the brakes . Even at 2 mph it give that vibration feeling if i hit the brakes .
Towing will cost a fortune , 50 miles to the shop !
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If the brake pedal feels like it is pulsating, then I would check to see if the rotor is warped. That should have been caught when replacing the pads.
 
TylerW said:
Makes me think you have a sticking brake caliper or clogged brake line. Our Dodge vans use to do it frequently.

The brake pad drags just enough to get hot, then when you apply the brakes it sounds horrible and vibrates because the disc is hot.

Drive some and see if you can smell or feel one side getting too warm.

Otherwise might be in the suspension.
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no ,does it when cold . I drive 30 ft hit the brakes and it happens , pedal does not pulse . Tested it by putting on lift applying brakes and rotors turned easily , calipers not stuck . I change the fluid every year to avoid this .
Checked wheel , no scoring on it or any suspension parts . this is insane
 
If you have checked the entire suspension and steering, and the brakes, maybe you need to look at the frame or K-member. I have had cars with cracked frames act like this. Instead of just looking at the bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints etc. you should also check the components themselves for bending or cracking.
 
Will put on lift and check everything , all the bushings , frame and k-member , though had the motor out last year and K-member looked perfect . You never know , potholes around here can break frames .
 
is the exhaust hitting the frame and rattling? maybe they didnt clearance it good, i know thats mainly a front wheel drive problem but possibly rubbing driveshaft or something when braking?
 
metal on metal is going to leave a rub mark if its not just vibration passing through an uninsulated joint (LCA, UCA, strut rod, etc) By braking you are putting pressure on the disc (if you have a frozen 4 piston caliper piston, you are pushing the disk in or out with LOTS of force unevenly) on a drum, you are doing the same, applying a directional force on a rotating object so you may be looking at bearings. Hows your caliper mounting bolts? Loose can cause a mean shudder, sounds like a grind.
 
pishta said:
metal on metal is going to leave a rub mark if its not just vibration passing through an uninsulated joint (LCA, UCA, strut rod, etc) By braking you are putting pressure on the disc (if you have a frozen 4 piston caliper piston, you are pushing the disk in or out with LOTS of force unevenly) on a drum, you are doing the same, applying a directional force on a rotating object so you may be looking at bearings. Hows your caliper mounting bolts? Loose can cause a mean shudder, sounds like a grind.
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thanks will check that out as well as soon as I get free day . I think it's vibration passing through uninsulated joint , upper or lower , the brakes were checked and all good
 
jerry6 said:
thanks will check that out as well as soon as I get free day . I think it's vibration passing through uninsulated joint , upper or lower , the brakes were checked and all good
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If I was you. Pull the wheels and rotor off on that side making noise and check the wheel begs really good to make sure the brg races aren't spinng in the hub. You wnt feel a couple of thnds play by hand. My old 68 chrgr did this on both sides.
 
mopwr2004a said:
If I was you. Pull the wheels and rotor off on that side making noise and check the wheel begs really good to make sure the brg races aren't spinng in the hub. You wnt feel a couple of thnds play by hand. My old 68 chrgr did this on both sides.
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I agree fully. I can't imagine a "grinding" during braking and steering that is "safe enough to drive."

Don't you have a buddy with a trailer?
 
No grinding vibration steering , just braking (no noise outside the car when it happens ), and no buddy with trailer , tow truck and $200.00and up it is .
 
HemiMark said:
Is the caliper loose? I'm stumped. :scratch:
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Bingo got the wheel off checked calipers again , bolt holding caliper was off . How I didn't see it the first time I don't know , bee a while since I've played with this car .
Thanks guys , bushings are next , got the kit , they will go on soon .
 
Is there a chance you got oil or grease on the rotor? That would chatter real bad when brakes are applied. Try brake clean and maybe try changing the pads, could be defective somehow.
 
it was a loose bolt on the caliper . I make sure the rotors are clean after changing pads . I just missed the loose bolt when I checked the brakes
 
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