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When did Chrysler install flat u-bolts? My original 62 8 3/4, 64 Sure-Grip (tapered axles and all), even my bb 4 speed 67 with torque boxes, none of them came with flat u-bolts. Recently swapped the rear out of my 64 with a later rearend that had regular u-bolts and 4:10s, changed the springs...

Both my 62 and 64 b-bodies with original 8 3/4 rears, 64 is an original 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, do not have the flat top knurl u-bolts. When I rebuilt the 62 rear I put the flat u-bolts on it, fearing the worst. Just redid the 64, couldn't find the flat top ones, bought them from Espos along with the...

My uca mounts were rotted, as well as the 'bathtub' in between them. I call the top section of the frame that holds all of the debris and water the 'bathtub.' That replacement piece includes the entire top of the frame rail, bathtub, which I needed to replace. If I did not have to replace the...

No issues with inner fenders, I actually removed fenders and inner fenders. I also had to straighten the driver front frame rail, it had minor damage in the first few inches. Yes, take multiple measurements multiple times, then measure again, test fit, repeat. Keep in mind not all old cars are...

I used those years ago, both sides. Rebuilt stock suspension for a number of years, recently went with QA1 uca/lca. Both versions, no issues with alignment, steering, tread wear, etc. Car tracks straight and true.

PST 16:1 manual, no issues, not difficult to drive, steer, park. I have a 4 speed so with any parking or reversing I use the clutch to roll the car back/forth as I steer. Goes down the road straight and true. Note: make sure the column is sorted, top to bottom, for the best driving experience.

67 Barracuda Front End Kits

I rebuilt my '67 sbp KH disc/sway bar suspension with stock parts, ok. Years later did it over with sbp QA1/Proforged parts, tracked/handled better than stock with the sway bar. Added new 16.1 box, more better. If I had to do it over, I would skip the stock rebuild.

My 67 came with the factory sway bar and KH brakes. The bushing is captured within the sway bar bracket, so in order to change it you need to split it open, swap it, and weld it back together with the new bushing in there, not ideal. I originally rebuilt my front suspension and it was nice...

I rebuilt my suspension with a kit years ago, factory sway bar, Espo rear springs, it was ok. Redid it recently using QA1 upper/lowers/strut rods and Proforged ball joints, links, etc. Added a PST steering box too. Car drove way better than stock with the swaybar, goes straight, handles...

I did this repair on a 67 a-body years ago, there was a company at the time that made the upper frame rail 'bathtub' with the UCA mounts and shock mount, all 1 piece. I had no luck finding a donor car, and was extremely pleased with the new parts. I have no idea who made them, many years ago.

I'm a complete amateur, but I was able to replace a torsion bar crossmember, a section of a front rail, firewall, cowl, uca mounts, with zero experience or brains. Took detailed measurements, making sure everything was square and straight to start. Welded in a few pieces of square tubing to...

Yeah, this question. And what if you do not have a press, is there a safe way to get it done? Also, certain rotors have to be ground down or they will wear through the piston seals. Bendix or Centric, I forget. '67 Fry Fix

Cut access holes and weld the rear of the LCA tubes to the K. None of the reinforcement kits address this. I did it on the first page, here is how I 'painted' the inside: '67 Fry Fix

'67 Fry Fix

Some front leaf brackets have 2 holes, but the competent spring shop is a great idea, I did the same on a set of worn springs.

Thank you all for the info. I searched for old traction bar ads as well, only found a few. I have bigger tires on the back now, and it appears the rear u-bolt tab is really close to the tire, won't know exactly how close until I pull the shock mount. I noticed the passenger side tire is closer...

Mine are more like these than any other type I've seen, they take the place of the shock plates, and each have 2 snubbers and 2 spring clamps. Are both spring clamps supposed to be 'bolted' to the bars with 4 nuts, and free floating? It seems odd that the snubbers are right next to the spring...

Based on what I can find, they do, but they are definitely different. I removed these when I got the car, and I spray bombed them black for some reason.

Top of pic is the front.

That's what I was thinking, just can't find them, and none with the front U-bolt mount so far forward.

These were put on by the guy who ordered my car, according to the second owner, and I'd like to 'restore' them, and mount them correctly, if possible. Both are missing front snubbers and the 2 U-bolts. Searched the interwebs, unable to find info or a pic of these. Obviously, they bolt up to...

I have a new PST 16:1 with manual steering and a 4 speed and love it. Point and go. Replaced my worn out factory whatever, probably the same, but so much play. I use the clutch to rock the car back and forth if in a jamb, like parallel parking, and when reversing turn the wheel the direction...

I used Proforged last year, really nice stuff. Problem was the lower ball joints were no where to be found. I had to check amazon for a few months and finally got both, one was a return.

Cut between the uca and the mount. If you cut the bolt off at the ends there is still a small section of bolt sticking into the uca mount. Not sure if a grinder will fit in there, but one with a diamond blade makes quick work of anything.

What 59 Dodges? I just picked up a 58, needs some parts/work, but I dig it.

That's right, 62 Dart 440. I swapped in a bb and a 4 speed. The one thing I would like to find is the Polara reverse lights/rear panel, dunno why, just do. Is that a Superior wheel? I've seen Superiors in that style, but not metallic. I dig the chrome reverse, got a set I might put on the rear...

I don't have any issues steering and shifting. PST 16.1 manual steering, new 68 column from Norm's, QA1, Proforged, factory KH manual brakes.

Almost grips are probably closer to almost flat. My 71 had a rimblow, and that had deeper grips. I have no idea if that wood wheel will slip in your hands or not, or be the best wheel ever. I keep thinking go old school, I can't help it, I have a problem. Is it manual steering? If you spend...

Metalflake rules! I have one in my Dart, and just got a green one I'm going to try on my 67. They have a bit of a 'sticky' feeling, as opposed to the black wheel, which is one of the reasons I put the wrap on it. Imo, make sure that wood wheel has the grips on the backside, it helps. Also, my...