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My 71 Demon 440 ran hot with the lower temp thermostats but improved greatly with the 195 degree thermostat. At speed heating can be an aerodynamic issue or lack of the rubber hood seal over the core support allowing air to bypass the radiator.

Kinda need to know what pressures you are seeing too. If you have a stuck expansion valve you may have high head pressure casing the jerking belts.

You can tip it but don't compliment it. There's little enough room without the radiator getting a swelled head! :lol:

It shouldn't be to big an issue. It can get a little tight on the bottom bolts. Getting the lines loose without twisting the condenser is also fun. You must use a backup wrench.

The Ford Diesels use a specially formulated coolant that also requires testing at regular intervals for scaling, nitrates etc.. using test strips. Depending on the results either an additive is used or the entire system is flushed and coolant replaced.

The hood latch and bracket needs to come loose and you may have to loosen the grill.

Step 1: Light torch! :rofl:

I used the Denso compressor from a 95 Intrepid on my 68. They draw much less engine power than the V-twin but require a relay to keep from melting your control head. The hoses were just spliced with a little extra effort.... Still using the OEM under dash stuff and condenser.

The one piece molded flex fans are stout. I always under drive them so they never get close to their 8000 RPM rating. I just replaced the fan clutch on my van Sunday because it actually locked up.

Actually there is no rock solid explanation of what a thermostat change will do for you until you do it. IF you have one that is defective, sticking open or closed etc. I had a 440 Demon that was fine until you stopped, fan and shroud were good, 3 core radiator all in good shape but, pull into a...

The crossover portion of the intake prior to the T-stat is where it needs to be. Since you are not running heater hoses one of those ports on the intake would be fine.

A good 180 or 195 T stat helps keep water in the heads longer and has cured a lot of heating issues.

If it's the system I think it is the expansion valve may be sticking or plugged and causing high pressure and making leaks occur.

Wouldn't A/C cars be prone to condensation and need better venting?

It sounds like the same problems I saw with engines where people ran too high a concentration of the good ole green stuff. Poor heat transfer and hot spots causing detonation and engine run on.....

I thought this was going to be a story about a gal on the boulevard..... :lol:

Just don't drill into the transmission! :)

These engines usually "like" a 195 T-stat so try a new one of those before you mod anything.

The only issue is pulley hub strength not balance. Either use washer head bolts or cut the bottom off of an old fan clutch flange to use as a reinforcement for the pulley face and prevent cracking around the bolt holes.

Motor technology and efficiency has improved a bit since these cars were built and I was wondering if any of you have found newer parts that are fairly easily installed in place of the OEM stuff. Blower resistors are pretty similar across the board on non ATC systems and OEM units are starting...

160 is too cold a T-Stat. Use a 195 and it will keep the water in the heads longer and allow your system to operate as designed. Your electric fans may or maynot work for this application but the cooling system needs to cycle and keep pressure in the block. You will have to experiment with the...

Actually there is a situation that would allow the "hotter" T-stat to make your engine run cooler. If the current T-stat opens prematurely and relieves the pressure in the heads allowing steam pockets to form, the "cooler" T-stat may not be so cool.

I by no means would lean over the molded units while revving the engine and if someone has had an experience of a molded fan coming apart I would like to hear about it. I'm just saying they are a much safer and reliable unit than the Ginsu type.

I still have the original heater valve on my 68 and the hose bracket was off a 68 Coronet 318 but routing should be similar. Just ignore the cobbled up A/C hoses for the Denso compressor conversion. Pretty sure I allowed 3 feet per hose and had plenty to work with.

That is why I started this thread.... The choice of pulleys is often overlooked when these fans fail. Many stock applications especially with A/C had large crank pulleys and small water pump pulleys thus easily exceeding the RPM rating for some aftermarket fans. All of my race car...

Anything with multiple pieces is a NO in my book for high RPM and performance applications. I have a nice factory MOPAR steel flex type unit that I refuse to put on anything as I have seen the same fans with cracks forming in the blade roots and others in pieces in the junk yard.

After seeing members and friends being seriously injured and stories of fatalities I hope to clarify which Flex Fans are the culprits of infamy and which are a good product. Any metal flex fan has the potential for fatigue, cracking and rivet separation. Any fiberglass flex fan which has...

When I converted my 68 to a Denso compressor I immediately noticed the switches were getting hot so I shut it down and rewired the clutch coil to run off of a relay. This solved the problem. May or may not be related to your problem.....

Two core factory or two core aluminum? Dimensions?

Cooling systems have a tendency for electrolysis. Before you flush next time take a DVOM set for MV and place one probe on the filler neck and the other suspended in the coolant. You will usually get some voltage if your system hasn't been flushed or cleaned in a while. A combination of...