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you need to know if you have an internally balanced 383 (forged crank, neutral balancer) or if you have an externally balanced 383 (cast crank, balancer with offset) then call McLeod to find their part number. http://www.mcleodracing.com/content/contact/ it's what i would do

they will last forever if you dont do the speed shifts a lot and dont down shift for every stop sign. downshifting wears them out fast, and the speed shifts break stuff.

'68 plymouth service manual can be found here: http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109 has all the details you are interested in... it's a lot easier if you have a shop with a lift, but i've changed them in driveways before. not as easy as changing spark plugs that's for sure

check out the linkage they are using... :burnout: it's on page 4 http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=270106&highlight=hotchkis&page=4

better make sure everything is tied down good

brewer's performance has a hydraulic clutch retrofit kit bring your american express

best advice to extend the life of the trans... no it's not an oil discussion. avoid downshifting to slow the car down when you are coming to stoplights etc... yes more wear and tear on your brakes. but preserves the trans a little longer. i probably changed the trans in my 4speed 340 dart...

my guess would be the tranny needs rebuilt if it was the pressure plate/flywheel/etc it would still do it in neutral. pressing in the clutch pedal might make it go away. but yours does it in 4th at highway speed, then goes away when you push in the clutch and shift to neutral. almost would...

no... jerico's are top end racing transmissions. competitors with lenco, gforce etc. the stock mopar 4spd is good up to a certain torqe/car weight. but even a well built smallblock can break one.

wow that's a badass trans!

you can also just use the brakes more... it will lengthen the life of the trans downshifting will slow you down, but if you go too low you can actually cause the back tires to break loose... like above post where he went into 1st accidentally. if he didnt catch it and over-revved it also...

haha reminds me of the shifter I had on my '68 dart back in the day (4 speed) I used to love that thing. you pull the rings up and push forward that was 1st. then no rings needed after that pull back = 2nd push forward again = 3rd pull back again = 4th the side lever was for reverse

also the clutch pedal assembly... there are little white plastic bushings & other parts up in there that can get worn out, sloppy, etc. something to check if you continue to have problems.

it's only a slight difference. barely noticable. however, if you are bracket racing and .1 sec in the 1/4mile matters then by all means go for it. to be honest, if your rear axle isn't geared properly for racing, you would better spend your money on some 4.10's rather than a flywheel. you...

they have hydraulic conversions too. i think brewers peformance and other places have them

the big boys over on moparts racing thread run Jerico trans

T56 is good up to 500-600 ft/lbs torque after that forget it, unless you have lots of spares

meh that's a big debate people chewing over 10hp at the wheels or .1 sec on a quarter not worth the time to type haha. they work, minor difference, cost money, etc. less of a launch from dead stop drag racing but faster in/out if you are autocrossing etc. there are other mods that give way...

S.F.I. tested/approved = good. home made, modified, unbalanced, spot drilled, hacked steel or aluminum = bad. will cut your foot off bro. and dont use a cracked flywheel ever