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Not sure if this helps, but I am using a set of KB167s in a 318. They measured out to be .004" below the deck height at TDC.

I plan on using the melling timing tensioner. It's not a machined plate like the thrust plate is that it replaces. Since it's not machined flat, it will have a leak. I did find the second 19/32" plug I needed so I will use them.

My machinest had a single 19/32" plug. So I now have everything for the oiling holes. I talked to my resident mopar head who said without the plugs in the front holes, you will have a helluva leak at the front. It will be less with the machined thrust plate, but it will be there. If you use the...

I dont want to take care of everybody else, I'm tired of taking care of everybody else. I appreciate everyone's input on this issue with the plugs. I will figure it all out. It's not like its gonna be assembled anytime soon.

I feel for you brother. It ain't easy. Then people who have no clue tend to judge when someone dealing with this type of **** self medicates.

Another tensioner pic. It might be wide enough for a double roller. I have I think a melling version I got off Rockauto for this project a few years ago. These are not super expensive. The one I bought was maybe $25. I need to look at it when I actually start assembling this thing.

I will just buy Detroit Diesel Green VHT and fog the ****** when its together and be done with it.

The 3.9L V6 had the chain tensioners from the factory. Mopar performance sold them as a hot rod part in the 90s and 2000s as the chains start to stretch, these take the slack out of the chain. Not designed for a double roller chain, the black nylon tensioner is not wide enough for that type of...

Thanks for the Kudos and the pep talk, but most times lately I'm outta "G.A.S." "Give A ****". I wonder if when these kids are grown and gone if my "Give A ****" will be back, or if I will be permanently mentally broken from all the B.S. In other thoughts, I'm not planning on using the oil...

And honestly I cleaned it all up, oiled everything, and wrapped it in a fresh new trash bag. Its sitting in the corner of the shop now. I do not have the time or the mental capacity to deal with this uninterrupted right now. This may also be the reason my 07 mustang GT has been sitting...

Duplicolor sucks IMHO. They have that ceramic built in, and you cannot get a shine out of it. Not like the engine paint of the old days. I am not happy with duplicolor results. I have a whole bunch of it I'd be willing to send you for the price of the shipping that's how much I cant stand the...

Now that I got the plugs issue straightened out, I am going to doll this teener up like a 69 340. I bought duplicolor chrysler blue enamel, but it's got that ceramic in it, and doesnt really shine on the samples I painted, and appears to be the wrong color. I decided to go with VHT engine...

I dont move as quick as you. My wife works weekends when I am off work which leaves me a household to run along with an autistic kid that consumes a lot of my time. I may have this together in 6 months if I am lucky. On the off chance I get time, theres always other **** that's more pressing...

Oreillys had the 9/16" plugs. I lack the 19/32" plug. I will try to look tomorrow.

Thank you to everybody who replied. I need one plug that's 19/32" for the front. I already have one of these, only need a second one, and one that's 9/16" for the oil gallery up above the rear main cap. I am going to try Napa and see what they have first. My machinest is going to see what he has...

The kits dont seem to come with this one plug. It's apparently 9/16". I have heard people say they dont remove it when rebuilding the engine. Why not? When you gun brush it out, you dont want any crud left behind. My dads 360 I knocked this plug out, and his core plug kit came with a new one...

Hi Steve, I'm not sure of its dimensions since its waaaay up inside the block. From my quick and dirty research it appears it's a 9/16" plug. With a flashlight I can see the shoulder. But cannot get a caliper on it. The blueprint drawing has a PN. Probably $30 from the dealer lol. it looks like...

I got a question, and an ask. So I finally got my block back from the machine shop. Guy had it awhile, he did a good job on everything, was super reasonable doing this as a friend of mine. I am aware what this work costs, I was charged half the going rate. I gave him my brass core plug kit to...

1 million dollars. But seriously, that's anybodies guess. Get it on a dyno and find out.

Other than heads, is there anything that makes a Magnum block more special than a roller cam LA block? I heard theres some magnum 318 blocks that have really thick walls and can take one helluva overbore. Casting #s on those? Casting dates? What to look for? Lots of magnums in my junkyard.

I'm working on a screamin or moaning 318. Whichever you think it will be. Waiting on machine shop jail for my block and rotating assembly. Final hone, decking, and rotating assembly balance. Then I can assemble the bottom end. Maybe this week they will get to it.

Or as an alias like they do on fakebook

You could always drill the magnum block and then the holes are there for different LA heads in a pinch.

The thing is, I cant understand why you would want to drill a magnum block for head oiling holes anyways. I think early ones had the oiling holes already in them. Arent magnum heads superior to LA heads? I mean dont people put magnum heads on LA engines quite a bit?

What diameter on the drill bit? You can get cobalt drills up to 12" in length for aviation use.

Charlie_es_cool Clear your PMs so I can send you a message.

Hell, I got one of those. Dont work for **** with me.

Long gone. Nobody wanted, they went to scrap.

Buy ones made by Hylift Johnson in Muskegon Michigan and forget about it.

How about a melling SPD-22 cam? It's a 68 340 automatic trans cam