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Bruce with the combo you're shooting at and with a sorta small "short" cam the small gain from the bump you get in compression will probably be negligible in "normal" driving conditions. You could probably make that little bit up on the blueprinting side of things (exact rocker ratio/pushrod...

Bruce, you gotta have the rods resized. Are you going to have your crank turned or did it mic out good? Get you some plastigauge and check it after getting your stuff back from the machine shop. It's one of those Trust but Verify kind of things. IMO 9.5 is plenty for a pump gas street engine...

aluminum water pump. The 318 is out of a 87-88 5th Avenue.

Oh my! I didn't notice until you said something!!! Messing with a car is the only time I'd have that problem!

I guess what I'm worried about is putting one too long in the wrong hole and making contact with something that I'm not supposed to!

ok, when I took apart this 318 a few months ago I actually took a piece of paper and mimicked the front of the timing cover to get the right length bolt back into its proper hole. Well, lo and behold, I've seemed to have lost/misplaced the paper (go figure!). Is it really that big of a deal or...

spoken like a true machinehead!!! I like your thought process! I agree but I'm a fan of Hughes cams.

I'd go with about a 3.55ish gear and a converter around 2,000 and the Performer over the Action + for the cam you are using... Edit: car is kinda on the light side so a lot of stall and gear won't be necessary.

Lefty loosey, Righty tighty. Breaker bar with a cheater pipe ought to get it done...

"302" casting, upped to 1.88/1.60 valves mild porting and go...

what Jeff said... If you got some miles on the engine this would be the perfect time to put an oil pump on it too.

ditto...

what he said!

I would go with the a double roller timing set...

on a dual purpose car I would go with a true roller with billet sprockets and multiple keyways for adjustability or just get a Cloye's Hex-A-Just which will cost a little more but is very well built and easy to adjust. If it's a track only car I would go with a gear drive (I love that whine!)...

one of the guys I work with is a Corvette guy (mental case!) and he sez that they come from the House with Mobil1 synthetic in them. I haven't verified this but i never would have thunk it.

thats what I'm thinking, I'd go stock to have the monies for my "real" engine...

Mobil1 & Wix filter twice a year. Nuff said.

no adverse affect running with a MSD digital 6? I know that you cant (aren't supposed to) run platinum or split-type plugs with the MSD. I run Bosch Platinum in my stock vehicles and have never had problems. Even ran Autolite platinums but that was at least 10 years ago...

under 375 h.p. 318 over 375 h.p. 360

it depends, but I'd take a 340 over either for a Performance application. 100% street I'd actually take the 318 over the 360. A truck pulling a bed load of stuff I'd take the 360.

71 and older 318's had steel cranks, after 71 should be cast. From what I understand the poly 318 had the same dimensions of the LA version and it was steel. If I'm mistaken I'm quite sure someone will chime in.

sweet!!!

Wow, this has turned out to be a good info thread! Thanks guys. Moper i understand now that I look at it with your Quarter VS. Dime analogy. It's also why having the right timing curve while running a fast burning pump fuel is important with these engines. Am I on the correct track of thinking...

point taken...

damn good question (I think we know who the closet genius is! :glasses9:)

My Duster is going to get all of the miles. My plan is to pull my Fury "off line" for some much needed modifications and bodywork which should take me 1 - 2 years (no powertrain work though, that's rock solid). On the mileage the manufacturers intended, I don't know.... Every Duster I've had I...

I drive my cars, I put about 15,000 miles on my 68 Fury III a year. It's not a stroker but it's a trouble free 383 with a stock rebuild. I have 3 318's laying around and 1 360.

alright we all know that doing the stroke on the 360 versus a 318 nets more cubes as well as torque (given all things equal) and is cheaper to boot. Yeah I know about the 340 but if you ain't got one and are willing to pay a small ransom for one, you have my blessing(s). 360's are plentiful...

good thread with a lot of good info. I'm looking into the A500 myself, just having a problem scoring one as they are proud of them in my neck o' the woods.