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Along time ago, I pulled a 318 out of a 67 belvedere, it had a factory single plane and a 2 barrel Stromberg carb. I shoved it in my 72 Demon complete with 727 Trans. Rear was 8 34 with 2.94 gears. Engine was real loose worn. Tuned it as best as I could, points you know.Decided to move to NJ...

ARP studs, billet caps and a stud girdle. I believe hughes makes a girdle for the small block. splayed caps are an option but I am not sure if they're worth the hassle. It depends how far you're gonna twist the thing. It is a cast steel crank I presume.

sweet....wish I could afford the W-2 setup. Does ma mopar still sell the large-port commando heads? I know tthey require the offset rockers also. still a bit pricey for those too.

tough question but in the end I think the eddy's is the best "all around" choice. Best bang for the buck would be some ported j heads.

i used a Melling chain. seemed to be of good quality. Used it on the 'teener. Think I paid around 38 bucks. [from the machine shop].

How expensive are the Doug's? might have to try a set. Anybody got the TTI's on a spool mount car? {'73 up} wondering if I may have the same issues? Have not made a choice on headers. {might end up fabbing my own}

I think the larger bore would cover all possible options with room to spare. Like a 340 that someone has bored .060. or maybe an x block. Not totally ideal because of the crevice can hold combustion gases that can go unburned and this alters compression slightly. This way the manufacturer does...

the only thing I can think of is the AFB. Either an air bleed is clogged on one side or the rod hanger is bent and not letting the rod set in the jet at the right height. All the plugs have been changed to new ones I assume. You may need to check the manifold also as said above. Smoke test or...

I think if you did a few 'minor' porting operations on the J heads, you could reach your numbers. Steve Dulcich has alot of porting articles out there. There is some porting options that do not require a flow bench. Just common sense porting in the area that need attention. Yeah you could go to...

I'd just run the 1.88's. for now.

you cant assume anything....start from scratch if you have to...degree the cam and check the mark on the damper {or make your own} so you can time it correctly. I even check the cam firing order, some cams have a 4 and 7 swap in the firing order. {mostly relegated to chevy though}. You would...

probably the last of the good 318's. Make sure you have a trustworthy machine shop. Preferably one that has experience with small block mopars.

I think the 318 lugs are spread wider apart on the block and the 340/360 lugs are narrower. this difference may be compensated for with some washers or a carefully crafted spacer. [at least thats what I remember when going from a 318 to a 360]

those are some good cylinder wall numbers! I need to look for a '79 block!

KB 167's would be another choice. cheap alternative if you like hyper's.

is the motor broken in yet. usually it takes from about 100 to 500 miles sometimes depending on how the engine was built. sounds like it was built tight with that kind of compression. just throwing ideas out. my 318 was a slug until it had about 350 miles on it. I mean a real slug.

stock 360 heads from the mid '80's seem to work. I have them on my 318 along with the 360 intake and even the Q jet carb. I used chevy valves 1.92 on the intakes. used 5.0 ford valve springs . Milled the block a bit, .025 I think and used Melling pistons for a 5.2 magnum [for a bit more...

it is possible, I have done it because of a broken timing chain in a friend's car. I used a stock gasket that I trimmed a bit and also used some black rtv. It's kind-of a ***** getting the seal to seat so the cover lines up. In the end I guess you could just use the RTV by itself, I have heard...

I have a 5.9 magnum that I just got a smokin deal on, 50 bucks except....the last cylinder bore on the passenger side has mega wear,...like it's at 4.026 just at the top of the bore and favoring the outside of the block . the next bore in line is not as bad but is bad in comparison to the rest...

you could swap in a set of magnum pistons which would get some more compression than take about .030 off the deck for more compression

Has anybody out there gone .040 over on their 5.9 magnum. I got a good deal on a 5.9 [50 bucks with every accessory with it]. I measured the bore very carefully and I think it will need to go .040 to save only one of the cylinders. for some reason the rear passenger side cylinder has a lot of...

not laughing at all. heck, your question probably informed a bunch of people. I know I learned something. where to measure the piston at to determine bore diameter. thanks.

I lived in FL. I cut mine out. Left the shaft in there but cut the flap. Then I moved to NJ and even in the cold, the engine started and warmed up just fine in the winter. I did buy a car from a guy cause the heat riser was stuck shut. He though is engine was bad so he sold me the car for cheap...

I will say that you should make 6000 RPM. You are going from a 408 with a 4 inch stroke down to a 360 with a 3.58 stroke. All else being equal, your ability to feed the 360 will be much easier {with the same heads that is}. The LSA sounds like it is very close to optimal for a 360, JMHO.

... a 318-3 truck crank is way,way way overkill in a 273. did you know those cranks are good for 8000 rpm (what I have heard). they are heavy and I am not sure but I think they have a different flange on the end. But if you've got one....I guess you could use it. Just a cast 318 crank would be...

it sounds like a bad condenser or points not set right.

...yes...you need hardened. also remember that some of the new bushing might need to be "reamed" to size. usually if the old bushing is good, I would reuse it if it is in good shape. Don't know where you would find the reamer for the bushing. Anyone know...? In any case, check the fitment of...

actually after looking at this I am thinking that this would be a good build and not too overly expensive. I could not tell from the picture but I believe the crank has the fillet radius on the journals which would be an improvement over the stock crank which was under cut. Also you would have...

yeah the 1.658 pistons used with the 3,58 crank would be a lot closer to the top of the bore as mentioned above about .029. you could then mill the block and have a "0" deck height if you wanted. what is the original application for the 1.658 piston?

I don't think it matters which direction you go as long as you have "enough" cfm but not too much. What matters is that you have some knowledge of carburetors (or find someone who does). I like the swap-meet holley Idea. Vacuum secondary would be my choice but if you have the knowledge you could...