J heads upgrade

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400-ish hp 340 with 3.91 gears = lots of teenage emulated fun in an A body...

You won't need a whole lot of cam to make that, if the engine is properly configured. Maybe 230-240 @ 050? If even? I smell solid flat tappet :) ...unless you need to go hydraulic.

Did you really ever place any limitations on this build? Like, what can you not do? What attributes can you not deal with? How much money can you not spend?
 
400-ish hp 340 with 3.91 gears = lots of teenage emulated fun in an A body...
That's what I'm counting on...:thumbsup:

You won't need a whole lot of cam to make that, if the engine is properly configured. Maybe 240 @ 050? I smell solid flat tappet :) ...unless you need to go hydraulic.
Will likely go hydraulic to keep costs down...flat tappet means a whole bunch more valve train $$

Did you really ever place any limitations on this build? Like, what can you not do? What attributes can you not deal with? How much money can you not spend?
No, but it's kind of a 'pay-as-you-go' project so it's moving slow. Frankly, I've already spent more than anticipated by buying new pistons and having the bores punched, and with aftermarket rods looming on the horizon I've blown way over any projections already so I'm winging it at this point in time. If I had performance equal to or slightly better than the old build I will be a happy camper. Attributes I can't deal with? Buying 'racing gas' (why I changed pistons) hard starting in cooler weather, and ridiculously poor gas mileage as with my prior build, although this is a 'fun car' so that's not a limiting factor.:popcorn:
 
So as long as we are on the subject of porting and flowing heads, who is good (and reasonable) on SB Mopar heads? Any recommendations? Right now I'm looking at roughly $750.00 to rebuild either set of heads I currently have (X or J) but that doesn't include porting and bowl work, flow testing, or multi-angle performance valve jobs. For about double that I could have a set of the RHS-LAX heads, and for a couple hundred more, a set of stock Eddys. Is there a happy medium out there?
 
OK, I almost figured that, but doesn't hurt to ask...you know full well there are some folks on here who try to build a race engine on a shoestring budget and then are crestfallen when the reality strikes and can barely rebuild or freshen up what they're working on.

I would think that a good off the shelf cam would work just fine for you if you're using stock valvetrain components, and 350-375+ hp won't be difficult even if you're staying with your stock sized valves, and even if I'm a bit put off by the way yellow rose presents his rationale and discussion, he's correct with the math. There are much better things to be done with the seats and valves and how you actuate them with the cam. I also know he gives zero f!@#$ about what any of us thinks, so there ya have it. :)

I think of the things I've read when it comes to aftermarket, you're still going to spend a pretty penny because according to the bright people on here, (IQ, moper, et al) you shouldn't run aftermarket heads OOTB-they should always be double checked for proper installed height and valve job at the very least and that adds cost to an already potentially large expenditure. X or J heads will get your goal-no problem. Prep them correctly with a good valve job, maybe some bowl work if you can swing it, and a properly chosen cam and you'll have a SWEET running 340 that won't kill your bank account, won't be temperamental, won't require race gas, and will be reliable.
 
X or J heads will get your goal-no problem. Prep them correctly with a good valve job, maybe some bowl work if you can swing it, and a properly chosen cam and you'll have a SWEET running 340 that won't kill your bank account, won't be temperamental, won't require race gas, and will be reliable.

Thanks! I forget sometimes that while I know my own goals and expectations, not everyone else does...thanks for asking.
 
Oh--just so we're all clear here:

I'm only regurgitating that which I've seen on here so you don't have to go digging too far.

X or J castings were a performance mainstay for a LONG time before any affordable heads came onto the aftermarket. W2s are terrific heads, but you have to invest another chunk of change for rockers, intakes, and exhaust just to run them...and unless I missed my guess, that's not what you're aiming for, so the necessity to deepen the hole in your bank account just isn't there.
 
OK, I almost figured that, but doesn't hurt to ask...you know full well there are some folks on here who try to build a race engine on a shoestring budget and then are crestfallen when the reality strikes and can barely rebuild or freshen up what they're working on.

I would think that a good off the shelf cam would work just fine for you if you're using stock valvetrain components, and 350-375+ hp won't be difficult even if you're staying with your stock sized valves, and even if I'm a bit put off by the way yellow rose presents his rationale and discussion, he's correct with the math. There are much better things to be done with the seats and valves and how you actuate them with the cam. I also know he gives zero f!@#$ about what any of us thinks, so there ya have it. :)

I think of the things I've read when it comes to aftermarket, you're still going to spend a pretty penny because according to the bright people on here, (IQ, moper, et al) you shouldn't run aftermarket heads OOTB-they should always be double checked for proper installed height and valve job at the very least and that adds cost to an already potentially large expenditure. X or J heads will get your goal-no problem. Prep them correctly with a good valve job, maybe some bowl work if you can swing it, and a properly chosen cam and you'll have a SWEET running 340 that won't kill your bank account, won't be temperamental, won't require race gas, and will be reliable.[/QUO



Dayum you guys are brutal on old YR.

To the OP....since you are taking your time, and you are thinking about what you are doing, I suggest you seriously consider an adjustable valve train. Even if you find a used set of 273 rockers. And a solid lifter cam. If you have your poop in a group, geometry wise, you should have to set the valves maybe every 5k, maybe even less. Then, you can do some relatively inexpensive oil system mods THAT WORK. Go to B3 racing engines web site and read his tech stuff on geometry. Money spent on valve train is money well spent. And a solid lifter will make more power, everywhere over a hydraulic. The only reason the factory went HFT was cost. Way cheaper to stamp a rocker than cast or forge one and machine it.

A little time spent now, with a pencil and paper will save you money and time in the long run. And make your finished product end up closer to your expectations.
 
A little time spent now, with a pencil and paper will save you money and time in the long run. And make your finished product end up closer to your expectations.
And that is exactly why I am on here asking questions NOW rather than second-guessing myself after the fact. You can't put metal back, as the saying goes. Also, I'm not trying to second guess my machinist, any more than someone undergoing cancer treatment is "second guessing" their doctor or hospital by gathering a second opinion. If I was building a SB Chevy he could probably recite the head flow numbers in his sleep, but from what I see going through his shop, LA Mopar is not a huge part of his business. You can't fault someone for that, but I'm not one to take someone else's word on something without doing a little homework. It's called "due diligence".
 
I think if you did a few 'minor' porting operations on the J heads, you could reach your numbers. Steve Dulcich has alot of porting articles out there. There is some porting options that do not require a flow bench. Just common sense porting in the area that need attention. Yeah you could go to 2.02. {we would install 1.94 chevy valves in the 360 for various reasons; price, narrower valve stem, and the non tulip design added a little bit more compression. Also. you didnt need to do as much cutting and some of the heads still retained the factory hardening [did not cut our all the hardened area of the seat] . I used to port small block heads back in the day for a guy down in FL. He had a super flow bench. It seems like we only used the bench for that last bit of flow usually gained from porting the short turn radius. All the rest seemed like it was very obvious where the port needed work. Equalizing port flow was another use for the bench. Widening the push rod pinch, blending the bowl and raising the roof, port matching the intake, all this is very basic things that you can do without a flowbench. Its hard to totally screw up an LA head with bad porting believe it or not.[gonna get slammed for this comment for sure, LOL] It seems like the more you can carve out of them, the more they will flow. That short turn radius though, that is the tricky area but still common sense porting will get you very far with a J head. I guess just find some old cracked heads and start practicing. All in all I wouldnt worry about it too much. 400 horse power has been squeezed out of a 318 fairly easy so a 340 should be cake.
 
300 horsepower? If you take an 8.2:1 360, put 675 heads on it with 1.88/1.60 valves, do some throat work to the heads and get 184 cfm intake and 170 cfm exhaust @.400" lift, use an Edelbrock Performer 318/360 intake, a Holley 1850-5 4160 carburetor, Comp 260H cam, stock 340 valve springs and a set of Summit $130 headers. You will end up with something like this.....

RPM................TQ/HP
2500............363/172
2700............354/182
2900............362/200
3100............369/218
3300............369/232
3500............366/242
3700............366/258
3900............366/272
4100............364/284
4300............351/287
4500............341/292
4700............341/305
4900............326/304
5100............304/295
5200............299/296........end dyno run

Any additional compression, performance oriented intake manifold, cylinder heads, cylinder heads, cylinder heads or camshaft and this engine will really take off.
 
I'm building a 340 with a BPE crank kit this winter ( which it is here already) and have a good set of ported J heads, now I'm thinking about upgrading the heads after reading this.... I just can't figure out what the best bang for the buck head would be to replace the J heads...
 
Depending upon the purpose of your engine, if you really do have a good set of J heads, you don't need a replacement set of heads. I'm shipping out a set of J heads next week, for a street 440 ci small block, that are flowing as much @ .550" lift as a set of Big Block OOTB Edelbrock RPM or Stealth heads. You don't have to replace J heads if you have already spent the money to make them right. You spend for aftermarket heads if you have stock J heads and you need the power of really good ported J heads.
 
Also, from what I read in Larry Shepard's "Smallblock Mopar..." Ma Mopar began using hardened exhaust seats circa 1971, so my '72 "J" heads should already have the hardened seats but not the '69 2.02 "X" heads....
Can anybody refute this?
 
I'm building a 340 with a BPE crank kit this winter ( which it is here already) and have a good set of ported J heads, now I'm thinking about upgrading the heads after reading this.... I just can't figure out what the best bang for the buck head would be to replace the J heads...
The RHS LaX heads are running about $1200.00/pair. Eddy stock aluminums, around $1800...

RHS LaX heads:
Hughes Engines

Edelbrock aluminum heads:
Hughes Engines

As per my point made earlier (depending on what you expect) you can do an awful lot of work on a set of J or X heads for the cash outlay for a set of Eddies or even the RHS heads.
 
I'm going to get the heads flowed to see where they are at.... My goal is to make close to 500 and spray it with a 150 shot

image.jpeg
 
Depending upon the purpose of your engine, if you really do have a good set of J heads, you don't need a replacement set of heads. I'm shipping out a set of J heads next week, for a street 440 ci small block, that are flowing as much @ .550" lift as a set of Big Block OOTB Edelbrock RPM or Stealth heads. You don't have to replace J heads if you have already spent the money to make them right. You spend for aftermarket heads if you have stock J heads and you need the power of really good ported J heads.

I second this. I have J heads on my 340. And the cost of making them flow great is HALF the price of a set of bare edelbrocks, before any work is done to them. I'm on a budget. Besides nothing is cooler than an all iron small block that smokes aluminum headed small/big blocks.
 
300 horsepower? If you take an 8.2:1 360, put 675 heads on it with 1.88/1.60 valves, do some throat work to the heads and get 184 cfm intake and 170 cfm exhaust @.400" lift, use an Edelbrock Performer 318/360 intake, a Holley 1850-5 4160 carburetor, Comp 260H cam, stock 340 valve springs and a set of Summit $130 headers. You will end up with something like this.....

RPM................TQ/HP
2500............363/172
2700............354/182
2900............362/200
3100............369/218
3300............369/232
3500............366/242
3700............366/258
3900............366/272
4100............364/284
4300............351/287
4500............341/292
4700............341/305
4900............326/304
5100............304/295
5200............299/296........end dyno run

Any additional compression, performance oriented intake manifold, cylinder heads, cylinder heads, cylinder heads or camshaft and this engine will really take off.
Holy **** that is close what I last did with a 318 bored 4.040, 1.88/*'1.50'* Schneider 262 .473 lift 110 , 9.8 comp .029 quench with 273 heads ...made 305hp 380tq with perf intake, 600 Holley, Doug's 1 5/8 headers.
Daily driver for work, tire burner on the weekend, tell everyone its a 318. customer was on a budget, limited to what cores he had...so I got a little creative with a truck block.
 
Also, from what I read in Larry Shepard's "Smallblock Mopar..." Ma Mopar began using hardened exhaust seats circa 1971, so my '72 "J" heads should already have the hardened seats but not the '69 2.02 "X" heads....
Can anybody refute this?
Flame hardened, induction hardened...have hard seats pressed in. Those factory versions aren't as hard.
 
This is a teaser for you.
340 +.040"
9.4:1 KB hypers
Stock steel crank
Stock forged rods
Bowl ported J heads
2.02/1.6 Stock valves
220@ .050" hyd flat tappet cam
1.6 stainless roller rockers
B3RE rocker geometry kit
Professional Products Crosswind manifold
Edelbrock 650 AVS carb
Recurved factory electronic distributor

This combo will make 400hp at approximately 5700 rpm and has 18 inches of idle vacuum. In a 360 with less compression, this basic combo went 12.35 @ 108 in a 72 Duster.
1007161926a.jpg
 
Once I have the flow numbers I will post them and see where to go with it the build.
 
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