318 build on a budget

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MvJackson

MvJackson

72duster
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Mesa, AZ
Looking for some tips and specs on a mild 318 build.

Gonna go with a mild 340 cam and 650 Holley.

Looking into heads. Any suggestions?
 
Stock heads with 1.88/1.60 valves and springs to match the cam. Dual exhaust 2-2.25" dia should wake the 318 a bit
 
MvJackson said:
Looking for some tips and specs on a mild 318 build.

Gonna go with a mild 340 cam and 650 Holley.

Looking into heads. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Add a good dual plane intake, headers and you'll have a fun package.,
 
I would make this suggestion;

Intake wise, a Weiand or RPM. An older LD4B is also very good!
1-5/8 headers into a 2-1/2 exhaust. Summit/Jegs have inexpensive kits with nice mufflers.
Use the upgraded 340 cam, not the OEM replacement (AKA Stock 340 cam)

IF you do any head work over the stock heads besides the use of proper valve springs and new seals, (AKA Larger valves and/or Porting) the 318 head could well use the 1.88-1.60 - 360 valves and a bowl porting, gasket matching while widening the port.

If you go to an Edelbrock head, that would be fine as well. And you will still use 87 octane. Tune it well with a good and powerful ignition, install a shift kit and call it a day. It will move really nice for you.
 
For a budget, you may want to look over the Mancini Racing "refresh" kits.

Kits A & B have main & rod bearings, gaskets, and rings for $200. The "B" kit has moly rings for $5 more... You can choose sealed power or michigan engine bearings, both are good...

http://www.manciniracing.com/enrebkit.html


The "c" kit has much more including pistons for $400.

If you want to upgrade to a 340/360 head, get a 10.5 compression piston for a stock 318, then with the larger heads will end up at 9.2. It worked great for me...

Also, get a good quality double roller timing chain, the stock 318 chains are junk. I like this one, it's a true roller double roller, a step above the stock 340 double roller chain...

http://www.manciniracing.com/edelbrock4.html


I like this 600 vac seondary Holley with electric choke for daily drivers. It runs good and is very affordable..

http://www.manciniracing.com/homo41noflca.html
 
Start with bringing the compression up.Be it pistons or heads. If you don't, then, at least don't bother with a cam. The Dcr is down so far in the basement already as a stocker, any cam upgrade without an accompanying increase in compression, IMHO is a waste.The first time around the block you will be shopping for gears and and a TC. Am I being harsh? you bet; bintheredonethat,seen it done too often.
-I have seen good results with just; a 4bbl, headers, stock cam,stiffer valve springs,and a free-breathing exhaust.
-I have seen lousy results in putting on a 340 top end,340 cam, 340log manifolds and dual 2 inch exhaust.
-I have seen excellent results with a small TQ, a matching small-port intake(don't say they were never made cuz I have one) , TTIs and dual 3 inch exhaust,plus the valve spring upgrade, so the beast can actually rev some.

Hey, remember when they put the 440 goods on a 383, and called it a Magnum?
So, if you put the 340 goods on a 318, what would you call that? Oh wait, it's coming to me.......A recipe for disappointment. At least,until you bring the compression back.The compression loss will require at least 3 to 4 gear sizes to wake it up; going from 2.76s to 3.55 minimum, and about 2400 to 2800 stall versus a well used stocker at 1800 .

So to build on a budget, let's see; what's a gear change and a TC worth, compared to a nice set of zero-deck pistons and a pair of closed chamber heads?
I can almost guarantee you will never be sorry with bringing up the cylinder pressure.At least until you exceed the Dcr that your gas, altitude,and head material,will support. Those 4 are sorta married, when bang for the buck is paramount.
 
On a budget look at Summits brand cam and lifters, very reasonable.
And a good electronic ignition, with maybe a HEI conversion.
Also if you don't already have a carburator, look at the Street Demon 625, very reasonable priced, I have one and they work great on a 318 right out of the box.
 
stock 360 heads from the mid '80's seem to work. I have them on my 318 along with the 360 intake and even the Q jet carb. I used chevy valves 1.92 on the intakes. used 5.0 ford valve springs . Milled the block a bit, .025 I think and used Melling pistons for a 5.2 magnum [for a bit more compression] used a melling cam too. runs real good in my 80 Power wagon.
 
I will be the jerk that says it first........ if your looking for hp and cheap. get a 360 and start there. you can get a running 360 for less then $300 pretty much anywhere. hell a bone stock 360 will make more power then a hopped up 318. any and all upgrades from that point forward cost exactly the same for a 318 or 360. you can make 400 hp on a junkyard 360 magnum engine dirt cheap. best bang for the buck. period

junkyard 5.9L = $ 350.00
cam regrind = $125.00
head rebuild with new springs, lock, retainers and seals = $ 350
crosswind intake = $ 200
cheap 750 cfm carb = $ 100 used.


that engine in an abody with any gears taller then 3.23 and a 3000 stall will run 12s all day long.
 
^^ What he said. I won't ever spend money on any SBM unless it says 360 on it somewhere, ever again.They are easy to find and cheap. Just make sure it's complete. Those little missing things will drive you crazy;time wise.
 
younggun2.0 said:
I will be the jerk that says it first........ if your looking for hp and cheap. get a 360 and start there. you can get a running 360 for less then $300 pretty much anywhere. hell a bone stock 360 will make more power then a hopped up 318. any and all upgrades from that point forward cost exactly the same for a 318 or 360. you can make 400 hp on a junkyard 360 magnum engine dirt cheap. best bang for the buck. period

junkyard 5.9L = $ 350.00
cam regrind = $125.00
head rebuild with new springs, lock, retainers and seals = $ 350
crosswind intake = $ 200
cheap 750 cfm carb = $ 100 used.

that engine in an abody with any gears taller then 3.23 and a 3000 stall will run 12s all day long.
Click to expand...
Here the 5.9s are probably gonna cost you a bit more and the 318s may well be a touch less. The Magnum 318s don't have the issues the earlier ones did- they're all around 9:1, they actually have a reasonable size cam in them. (small, but reasonable not like a broomstick) Less power than the 360s have, but a whole lot more than about all the stock LAs.

The Magnums run a lot better than most LAs but few LAs have any cam to them. One of the biggest changes that I've seen is headers and a good exhaust, and I've never been impressed with a 318 or 360-2 cam motor. Sure, they run okay in a car but they're weak and not equivalent to an 8.8:1 340 with 3.2 gears.
 
I was going to go with a 360. Then I totaled my other car.

A friend has a 318 and it's in good shape. Already has high comp Pistons. 1968 block. Just seeing any tips on that build.
I wasn't asking if I should go 360. This is t gonna be a drag car it's a commute and daily driver car. Just want to be able to open up and have fun every now and again.
 
Head wise I wouldn't really do to much to the stock head for the power level your looking at the stock heads are fine you could put in bigger valve but is only worth it if you do some porting. If your looking to gain a few more hp probably the best bet would be to slap on some EQ's.
 
MvJackson said:
Not being rude or anything. And I appreciate all the help guys!!
Click to expand...

Don't worry about it, any time somebody around here wants to build a teen it always turn it put a 360 in it.
I have 318, 340, and 360.
If a 318 is what you have to work with, just add duels, good 4bbl and small cam and have good reliable fun.
Don't spend the money for heads save it for a a larger motor, or upgraded power train.
 
sireland67 said:
Don't worry about it, any time somebody around here wants to build a teen it always turn it put a 360 in it.
I have 318, 340, and 360.
If a 318 is what you have to work with, just add duels, good 4bbl and small cam and have good reliable fun.
Don't spend the money for heads save it for a a larger motor, or upgraded power train.
Click to expand...

I'm just gonna port the heads.

And I'm looking for an 8 3/4 3.23 posi.
 
A fresh transmission, put it in the budget.
 
sireland67 said:
Don't worry about it, any time somebody around here wants to build a teen it always turn it put a 360 in it.
I have 318, 340, and 360.
If a 318 is what you have to work with, just add duels, good 4bbl and small cam and have good reliable fun.
Don't spend the money for heads save it for a a larger motor, or upgraded power train.
Click to expand...

My first build was a 318 in my dart. The car was only transportation I had. It ran high 13's. Sure it was fun but looking back the car would have been more fun with the 360. Never met a car guy that did an engine swap and not want more. You just get more bang for the buck with the 360
 
sireland67 said:
Don't worry about it, any time somebody around here wants to build a teen it always turn it put a 360 in it.
I have 318, 340, and 360.
If a 318 is what you have to work with, just add duels, good 4bbl and small cam and have good reliable fun.
Don't spend the money for heads save it for a a larger motor, or upgraded power train.
Click to expand...

Eggzactically, except I'd pass on the cam, unless it had a very similar ICA, to stock, to keep the Dcr up.
-And I would put headers on it,with a X-over, cuz I had such great success with them on my 73 LC teener. See, a stock teener will make similar or more torque than a stock 340, all the way to about 3000rpm, or a little beyond. And that's close to where long-tube headers and a X-over,begin to really work.
-But with the stock cam, freer breathing logs would be ok too, I guess. Those teener logs are kinda teensey. Give Trebleg a call, If you're interested in opened up logs.
 
With the low compression of other year 318's, @ or under the 8.0-1 advertised ratio, I opted for a Crane cam on a 112 C-line. It works better than a 110 on the low sqeeze mill.

(216/228-,454/,480-112)
 
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