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anything is better than a 67 k frame so yes #1 yes #2 and yes #3 easy breezy and aloha!

Nice car but needs less altitude all around, imo

too much camber also. half a degree negative camber and 1/16th toe in is where you want to be. find another alignment shop.

Use a good synthetic grease for assembly also (I used lower outdrive grease from a boat store). You won't have any of the squeaks that so many people complain about.

Surprized more folks aren't looking into other alternatives besides mustang wheels. Don't the crown Vic cop car wheels have the same bolt pattern in 16"? How about the early Toyota pre-runner (the blue ones with body kit) wheels. They're 5 on 4.5" too and look pretty good. Some of the newer jeep...

Was mentioned already, but worth repeating.. BF Goodrich T/As are hockey pucks and will render those suspension improvements useless.

18x8.75", 255-40 rear 245-40 front. Mines way different w/ a '69 b-body rear and drum brake spindles on front with now discontinued A.R. engineering early viper brembo caliper kit using 11.75" c-body rotors. T-bars are easy enough to change later, from where I'm sitting it looks like you've got...

The stock 340 rear springs are probably fine for a mainly street car, they work great for me. Try get the biggest T-bars that you can. Mine are 1.06" and I want bigger. Good shocks like Bilsteins, a reinforced later K frame, and poly bushings in suspension parts will provide you with miles of...

I made a small compromise for aesthetics, 245/40 in front and 255/40 in back, wheels are the same 8.75x18 all around.

You can use the two setting front spring hangars also, easy to install and easy to change back to stock height. got mine from AR Engineering but i think Mancini has then too.

I would go with mopar "HD" springs in the back, they were stock on 340 cars I believe. Or you can have your existing springs re-arched. For the front, any T-bar over 1" will make your car drive a lot nicer. -good luck

c'mon guys, It's RICH corinthian leather ..and I like what they've done to my car!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ this! Thanks Mattax

The strut rod IS in play, that's what its there for. I have exact set up as blue on my ride and have had nothing but trouble free service for what now is about 7-8 years.

I say poly, your proposed set up is virtually identical to what my car has had for years except for the newer sway bar, bilsteins and delran bushings. Those weren't around when I put my car together but would use them if I get back under it. It has poly in the rear also. Even without a sway bar...

Borgeson boxes are not the same as stock.

Old HDs with adjustable front hangars.

I got some (Firmfeel) just because the poly lower bushings I put in are shorter than stock, with the adjustable struts I can get the bushing seated where they're supposed to be.

I've done a few rebuilds with PST kits, they work just fine. I second the suggestion that you get the front end rebuild tool set. I think I got mine from Mancini.

69 B rear in mine, its the only way to get the big backset wheels to fit without spacers

I'm using the short bump stops w/ TTi headers but cut the collector flanges off and welded in ball and socket style collector flange. Every little bit helps.

Honestly if it's driver w/ no track time expected go for 1" or better bars. If the .89s are cheap or free go for it, but the bigger bars are sooo much nicer for the road. I've got 1.06 bars and want bigger.

Low= good

Where does somebody even start with this?

More positive caster for better centering, Joe's second listed specs are money.

That is correct, not to mention the a body housings are getting hard to come by.

Most guys just switch to adjustable strut rods when they change to poly, problem solved. Also, the grease they offer for huge profits is simple marine outdrive grease, the stuff won't wash away. Easy to find and cheap at a marine store.

Agree with AutoX, why reinvent the wheel? Get some big T-bars, sway bars, good shocks and some chassis stiffening and see if you can hang on.

Don't remove the seam, just clean it up and weld it. Also the steering box mount should be strengthened/braced on the open side.

Look up FABO member HemiDenny, or Reilly Motor Sports (RMS)