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the b&b/long does not require strong leg to operate it. easier on your leg. btw , ours ran low 11 sec car., my friends was a street car. mine was 1400 # base with c/w

we ran our b&b/long, in a 340 duster, was not a parts breaker, very consistent, very reliable. also you can have base pressure changed , my friend had his set at 1600,# base pressure, also, you can install c/w on fingers to have clutch not slip at higher rpm. just food for thought.

my personal one is mcloed b&b/long pressure plate with organice disc., works great. , its simple and works

that shift knob is for hurst street super shifter, you had to pull over to reverse and push down on handle to get reverse , i've had one before,

shaft is based on input whether it was 23 spline or 18 spline and dia of shaft. 18 is way bigger

the ball and detent side cover is best one. mopar says to use it versus scissors style,

change to 3.09 gears, all slant sixes had those.

I have a clutch car, for years ran a mcloed long/b&b at 1600 base pressure plate and series 300 disc, worked great, now have mcloed softloc clutch, with sintered iron disc. base is 625, with c/w on fingers, it's made to slip some doesn't hit as hard .you have wrong clutch setup. center force...

add a brace from master cylinder to left fender panel, also extend the bottom pivot on Z bar one inch, where clutch rod joins it. if need more travel, then lower top pivot down one inch, this changed the ratio of Z bar, clutch will work a lot better, pedal doesn't have to travel as far to...

looks like it's in reverse, reverse arm is not in line with other shift arms. pin has to pass through all 3 levers first. just food for thought.

the adjustable clutch is a long style, refered to as a softloc style.

my friend ran his 1800 lbs on street, mostly, raced it a few times is all. 3500 lbs car wgt. 2.47 first gear in trans, he had the 18 lbs steel flywheel from mcloed.

mcloeds were at 2400 lbs had a friend with one, he installed my 1400 lbs in car , it ran two tenths quicker, did not slip 1800 lbs is about the minimum i would run, i used a 1400 lbs in my 340 duster, for years, it weighed 3370 just food for thought. does yours have c/w levers ? btw, his was a...

i checked mcloeds site, they list that clutch, it's 1800 base 10.5 dia. thing is, they are a very good clutch, i ran them for years in my race car, and put them in customers cars.

as far as i know , yes, could be wrong though. have to ask them

mcloed sells a b&b clutch with long clutch fingers they work the best, way better than a b&b clutch, just food for thought

i kept the over center spring, i don't know how to post pictures on here, i attached spring to pedal on the part of arm, above the pedal, bolted it to a bolt that is at bottom of steering column. very simple setup.

i had same issue on my modified clutch bar, i added a spring under the dash, to the pedal. hooked it to bottom of dash , works wondereful!!! just food for thought.

when you drive those, have to double clutch on up shift, and down shift, have to blip throttle with clutch out to match gear speeds on down shift. i use a jerico, thats how i drive it in pits, no grinding . did same thing with my pro ring mopar trans before that. thing is , i learned driving a...

the 309 set is usually refered as the poor mans doug nash it was 305.

i don't know how to send pics, however, on back of the bell where trans mounts is where the hole is drilled, if you have a mopar trans , the upper right hole lines up with the adjuster hole in clutch. if have a jerico, then have to move down partway on face and line up to a adjuster on clutch to...

ran 3.09 set in my car at races, from 77 to 2009 no probs .

did you have a jack holding rear end up or let it hang down?

on right side of tunnel have to cut a small piece out to let trans fit in tunnel also, redo trans crossmember. trans yoke is a turbo 400 style. 1350. also, trim around shifter hole to get long shifter to fit.

the front bearing has to be gone, mine was the 3.09 gear set after it's together, then install front bearing.

the #2 post is way i fix trans except, i put input shaft in lathe and sand bearing surface with 220 grit paper, i don't have to heat bearing then, by assembling whole trans with input assembled to main shaft can slide it through case easily, 3,4 slider has to be in 4th gear for it to clear 3rd...

lay trans on it's side, loosen the side cover bolts, shift into reverse, with a wrench, now tighten the cover back down, there is a shoe inside trans matches up to 1-2 shift fork , if it's not set right trans will not go into reverse look in a service manual it shows how this is setup

18 spline input is bigger dia, also gears are cut at different angle for strength. hemi trans is kinda noisy.

nope. go for it, done that before.

the bolt pattern will not let it bolt up . only fits one way.