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I used to use pre-bent on the projects cars, but after using this on customers cars, where I used to use just regular brake and gas pipe I think I'll just use this. Guaranteed a lifetime, easy to bend and get to the shape you want. Tricky to flare, though, as it can be a little too soft...

Good enough to be a sticky. Or put in the tech archives for later research. One helluva good write up.

Correct.

You'll need the larger ball joint for your car if you don't already have it. Spindles and caliper anchors. Keep the hoses in good shape if you can so you can use those as mock ups for length and routing. Rotors, bearings, and the such can be bought new, so if they aren't in great shape...you...

I would guess (yeah, I'm guessing) the cheapest route to front disk would be to find an F, J, or M donor car and get the spindles and caliper anchors. You'll need to step up to the large ball joint at the point. Get the calipers and master while you're there and use the old ones as cores for new...

While you're checking all the above also check the play in the wheel bearings. One side being too loose and the other being too tight can cause such a situation.

Good advice on this one. (highlighted.) I also have a question. Just a little diagnostic work. Have you opened a bleeder to see if it spins freely? Just open it and close it again, then spin it. Do this on just one side, but check both sides to see how they both spin. What happens?

I wouldn't go Year One unless you felt like spending the money. As those here have already said, take a look at your local auto parts places and start comparing prices. As for a list of what you need: wheel cylinders (2) brake hardware kit adjuster kit shoes It's been my experience...

It doesn't hurt to try to bleed it first. From the way you're describing it, though, it's pushed past the cups and you're going to need another master.

The idea that if you pump it quick and it holds then bleeds off sounds like the master to me.

Feels like a lot of air in the system? Pump it a few times, pedal comes up, then bleeds off again?

Are you saying that the pedal drops with light pressure, then grabs?

From the pic, those anchors and calipers look a lot like Chrysler F,M,J, trucks, etc. The anchors and the spindles are the "hardest" part to find. The calipers can be had at any of the major retailers for around $15 apiece, the rotors at about $20 apiece, throw in a set of bearings for about...

My granddad, being born in 1910, had a saying for how to remind yourself of where the shoes go. I won't post it up since it's a saying from the Jim Crow days and segregation, so if you want to know, PM me. But only if you're not one of those who thinks today's sensitivities apply to the way...

Brake clean will get the oil off. That's one of the things it's designed for. I agree with the use of the fine sandpaper.

I'd try it this way. Take the rear brake line off the hose to the rear axle and have someone push the pedal slowly. Watch to see how fluid is coming out. Nice steady stream? Got problems somewhere between the hose and the wheel cylinders. Trickles? Then the problem is from there forward. Unhook...

Sounds like you have plan in mind. Take the pics, write up the essay, give us some seat time feelings from it and maybe put it up in tech. I would make a suggestion, though, considering these are brakes: make sure you give it seat time and get any kinks worked out with photos and descriptions of...

Well, if you have some extra time feel free to give me a shout and stop in while you're up this way!

And it's getting worse...but why ruin this thread and have the mods shut us down? :-D There's some offsetting reasons to continue here in Upstate. The wife has a job with the state here in Elmira. So the pay is good, the bennies are great. And since dodgepower needs the knowledge and know-how to...

One of those small world things. The wife and I moved here a year ago, Dec. 1st. I've lived in and around Watkins Glen all my life, but with the exception of two jobs in Ithaca and one job in Corning, I've worked in Elmira pretty much all my life, so it was an easy move.

That's the only one I can think of, too, and it's made of pure unobtainium.

yup. C-clip axles. Pull diff cover off. Pull bolt for spider pin. Slide out spider pin. Push in on axles (might have to tap with a hammer), take out C-clips, slide out axles.

So, for 269.95 a pair you can the brackets, the bolts, the spacers and the rotors...then go to the parts store and order in a set of loaded calipers for it. Not bad, all in all, for the price. Figure about $400-$500.00 for everything, except e-brakes (maybe), and the green bearings you'll need...

To answer your questions I don't believe there to be a true "bolt on" rear disk assembly for the 8 3/4. Not in the perspective of just bolting on and go with just a few, no hassle mods. Not in the sense I believe you're looking for from the tone of the first post quoted above.

Here's a trick just for fun to try, too. Melt a little candlewax into the fitting and walk away for a little while. Better than any penetrating oil on the market as the wax carries the heat inside the fitting to the line where it does the most good and acts as a lubricant that won't flow out...

Give what dartnut told you a try. Hope it helps. If not, then prop valve may be sticking.

Low pressure to the backs, but good to front or just low pressure in general?

Not trying to start a fight here...but if you were in NYS and I saw this car with compression fittings on the brake lines, I'd fail you for safety inspection in a heartbeat. I'm glad you can say that you've had no problems but compression fittings on the brake lines is against the law in most...

Inline tube, Classic tube, a few others make prebent. I've had good luck with Inline tube.