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Except the fact that technically speaking the air on the cars like Tony's or Mike's doesn't enter the carb through the cowl. :lol: I remember a guy years back who came in and "purists" drove him off relatively shortly after they roasted him for asking for pics just like the OP has. I don't...

Yes, it does. So does Scampmike's car.

Ahem..

You and I both know that's because some guys like to throw their asses. What's funny is the fact that a lot of those guys who insist that you simply can't - absolutely cannot! - run an aftermarket hood without an "original style scoop are the same ones filling their engine compartments with...

Calling them Chevy hoods doesn't make it so, given the true factory set up's from Chevy. At that point it's all aftermarket. There is no definition. It's simply a rearward facing hood scoop.

True Chevy Cowl Induction. First pic is a Chevelle. Second is a Camaro. Time to end the bullshit narrative of a rearward facing open hood as a "Chevy hood."

Except the fact Chevy never truly used that style of cowl. True Chevy cowl hoods were extra molded sheetmetal to enclose the air box with a trap door opening at the rear similar to the Air Grabber. The rear of the scoop was not open.

Most of the guys on tv are making money off tv. If they could actually build a car, they'd make money off the builds, not the residuals from the tv contract. The real car builders know the tricks of the trade to level metal without the overuse of filler. Filler should only be used at a...

That's where I bought the kid's from. Perfect color match to the original on his taillights.

How much have you gotten done so far? If you've just tacked it in there with no real strong welds, cut the tacks and pull it back out. That'll give you some room to do some metal shaping. If you've got something more solid going on might not be a bad idea to take the cut off wheel to it and do...

Please do!

Just wondering if you put this in larger font and heavier text just because someone disagreed with you and this is your way of making your point? If that's your experience, then hurray. Others might have had different results. I'm hesitant to weigh in on these issues anymore. Everyone starts...

I agree.

Depends on how you want to do it. The factory shot the cars with the bodies assembled and the doors off. Fenders, deck lid, hood, even the door hinges were in place before the car was painted. Doors were bolted on last. Hence the reason you don't see paint in some areas, and some areas don't...

My point, exactly, guys, thanks.

While you're on forwardlook.net check out John Fowley's profile, too. He's on there as Big M, I believe. He has Big M Auto Salvage in CA. All his contact info is in his profile. Stand up guy with a helluva rep over on FL. He may have something.

Interesting.... I think if you do a google search you'll find hinge kits out there for such a conversion. By the way: welcome aboard!

I use PPG's NCP 270/271. It's a straight to bare metal primer surfacer. Excellent filling characteristics, especially unreduced, and corrosion resistant. Since PPG brought this to the market I've stopped buying epoxy and adapted my technique to use this instead.

Sorry, I misread it. Still a large area to be using one on, especially, as you said, it's primarily for small parts and touch up. I really don't see the engine compartment and it's associated parts as small. :-D But what I said, still stands. It's more about your determination and skill to do...

I agree. If I have one or two small parts which need to be sprayed and don't want to crank up the gun, even if it's my touch up gun, the compressor, and the hoses, I use one of these. It's also cheap enough that if I don't feel like cleaning it, then I really don't have to, unlike my guns. The...

According to the description which is on the page it's coming up chrome. Also found one on Auto Body Specialties web page that lists as chrome in the description for $199. http://www.autobodyspecialt.com/ And another one at Sherman listed as chrome for $180...

Right. All the above. Sometimes it depends on what part of the country you're standing in when you ask a question that determines what you're asking for. What's a pole cat?

Right. ^ And the body shop who mentioned this needs to do some research on the whys and wherefores of the factory doing such things. If they want to take on restoration work, then details count. The trend continues today of "blacking out" the wheel wells for aesthetic purposes, usually done...

The code book is at the shop. I'll see if I can dig it up tomorrow for you, Dave, if someone doesn't beat me to it. If they do, then you'll have the information sooner..:-D

The principals are the same: YouTube- Roof Ditch Self-Leveling Seam Sealer Application - 122EZ

3M, Fusor, and a few others have self-leveling seam sealer for applications like this. Fill the gap and watch it do it's thing. Should be able to find it at your local auto body supply house.

Then check out Totally Auto's website. You can't order from them online unless you call first to set up an account. It's a pain in the butt, yeah, but the woman I spoke to was very polite and very happy to help.

How stock do you want it to be? Totally Auto has the correct silver. Pricey, but quality.

My '69 Sport Satellite has undercoating from bumper to bumper (probably why the frame rails and floor pans are still in good shape), which I believe was factory. As for what's good? I've used 3M before out of a schutz gun with good results. Heavy, sticks, and doesn't want to puddle.

Check out Totally Auto if you're worried about correctness as far as the argent. The satin black is pretty much satin black.