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One of my friends has a ford festiva that uses atf in a manual trans, I thought that was very bizarre. I never would have imagined my 4 speed would be the same. I still have 80 wt in mine but I've been planing on trying the atf thing. What kind of atf are you running? Do you notice it running...

I think I'm just going to drain and flush with dextron and see if there is a noticable difference. Another question, at wot what rpm should I be shifting at? I'll have to drive it and see where it is now and let you all know. It might be a few days as my duster is in need of my attenion right...

So I picked up a 68 Polara not long ago with a 383 and a shot 727. I finally got around to swapping out the transmission with a 727 from a 77 New Yorker that I had sitting around. I cleaned it up changed the filter and adjusted the bands before installing it. It shifted smooth and through all...

You called it Moper. The instructions say to have the most offset side to the front of the vehicle. but didn't explain if it was talking about the top or bottom of the mount. This should solve alot of problems.

I'll double check but I'm pretty sure I had it right.

The shifter mount bracket I have isn't an a body one and wont fit quite right. I ordered the correct one last night. As soon as I get it I'll take a picture.

I'm trying to install my hurst shifter and linkages on my 440 4 speed duster. My shifter linkages seem to be to low and are hitting the trans cross member. I have schumaker motor mounts that move the block forward about an inch. Can someone tell me if the shifter mounting bracket holes seem to...

Another thing I just noticed. When I put it in nuetral and the rear is off the ground, The wheels spin like it is in drive. ??? but they dont have enough force to move the car while on the ground. What would cause this?

So I picked up a 68 polara (I know, not an A body) for pretty cheap because it was having transmission problems. I figured it'd be no big deal since I have a working 727 in the garage. The trans seems to be slipping very badly. Is there anyway this could be caused by the linkages not being...

Well when it happened I didn't have time to downshift or hit the clutch. the engine didn't stall either because I never had to come to a complete stop. I went from 45 to 10 mph. The brakes never locked up either.

I have done a few full throttle clutch side steps recently. You'd think that would have broke it before slamming on the brakes would have. I got the clutch at autozone a few months ago. Wont make that mistake again.

more pics

Yesterday I was driving my Duster and had to slam on the breaks. As soon as I did I heard a thunk and started having problems with my clutch. I limped home and started to pull the drive train. I know I didn't need to but I had planned on pulling it out anyways this weekend to start my 440 swap...

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I'm about to swap the 727 out of my 68 polara and figured while I've got it out I may as well put in a better converter. I dont know much about converters so I'm not sure what I need. Here's the specs; 383, pretty much stock. Headers, intake, and carb. I'll be putting a 727 from a 77 new yorker...

I had a shop rebuild my carrier and this is the contact pattern I'm getting. Does it need adjusting?

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I've got the pumpkin back out and am ready to take it back to the shop. But before I do how does this contact pattern look?

I know this is probably very simple but I've never done it before. I've looked at the green bearings because they look simpler but alot of people are saying they're drag race only. What exactly is the correct way to adjust the axles on an 8 3/4 489 case axle? Also who makes a good kit with all...

Its 150 in lb. Looks like I'll be pulling it out again this weekend. When I do I'll take a picture of the contact pattern and post it. I hope they at least got that right. It seems like everytime you pay someone to do something it never turns out right.:angry7:

No drive shaft or brakes. The axles aren't bolted in yet just sitting in place. I'll tell you the rotating torque in the morning. But I'm pretty sure its gunna be above 75 in lb

The only bearing I replaced was the one that is seated on the pinion. Not sure if this applies.

Ya that was my bad I did leave out a 0. I decided instead of doing this myself, having it not work, and having to pull it apart agian I'd just take it to a shop and have it rebuilt. Problem is now that I have it back in and the axles are in I noticed how tight it is. It'll still spin but not...

I think I finally have my new ring and pinion ready for duty. But before I get it all back together I'd like to hear from somebody who knows what they're talking about. How tight do the carrier bearings need to be? The back lash is set at .03. The BL written on the ring gear was .01 (seems kinda...

They said to check preload the way you said. I guess I'll have to suck it up and get an in lb torque wrench.

What exactly did I do to ruin the bearings? Richmond gear is telling me to only torque it to 125 ft lbs. wouldn't 240 be a bit much?

The instructions are telling me to start off with three shims and add or remove as needed. I started with three then two then one and even with one had a little wiggle room. When i take all shims out it seats. Should i file the solid spacer down a hair so I can use the shims?

first off this is a 489 case. I'm putting my differential back together but I'm not sure how tight it all needs to be. I installed a solid spacer and torqued the pinion down to 125 in lb per the instructions. But if I use the shims that came with the spacer, I cant get the bearings to seat. I...

I appreciate the help. I called ratech and got it direct through them.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my differiantial because I had some differiantial whine and vibration. 3 of the 4 carrier cap bolts were lose. Which would explain my vibration. Anyways, I'm trying to change out my ring and pinion and cant seem to find a new rear pinion bearing anywhere. I was...