Search results for query: *

^^ Seriously, I'd hate to loose throttle on the highway or uphill! The other benefit of the Lokar is that it's a double return spring. To make sure you get full travel as RedFish mentioned, pull the cable from the firewall side tight as you measure to ensure the gas pedal is all the way up.

I went with a Lokar cable for my build with a 4bbl Holley. It comes at 24 inches which is way more than enough. I think all you need is about 14 inches. Per the instructions, you just cut the sleeve and inner cable to size with some angle wire cutters. It was easy as pie and looks good in my...

Good choice, didn't skimp there. If the shop is any good, they will tell you what to spend more on and what you can reuse. Talk to them as much as possible so they, and you, know what you want to get out of the engine. Just my 2c

^Good advice on having your old ones checked.

The info on the timing/degree and spec card that comes with a new cam usually includes the recommended spring type (single, dual or triple) and spring rate. You won't know what springs you need until you decide on a cam. If you have a good machine shop around you, I'm sure they could help you out.

Mine came off and went back on with a 3/8 extension... There was NO nut on it. IF it were a 90 degree adapter it would be held in by a bolt.

Really does look scary. If I had a lift I'd do it that way. Nice work!

abodyjoe - have any pics of a cut K&N?

^ Think ahead Find yourself a good machinist and talk his ears off.

I pulled a 318/904 out of my 72 dart. It was my first pull and I did it alone. If you're pulling the trans attatched there's no need to pull the starter (I didn't, PITA). Be sure to disconnect the shift rod/strut assembly, it's attached to the frame with one bolt. I didnt undo the centerlink...

The sheet that came with the pistons says MAY need to increase gap by 20-40% for high performance or towing apps, rings say .004 per inch...

Got my shortblock 360 .060 together, but now I'm wondering about the ring gap. I don't think my pistons are hypers, just cast (silv-o-lite 1273 60) so I set the gaps at about .0165. Should I have followed the 20-40% gap increase rule? It's not really a HP build. Thanks in advance!

Thanks guys! I got a melling sv and it comes with a drawing of where to grind the pump if need be.

Started putting my 360 together, but neither the haynes manual nor the hp how to rebuild your sbm mention oil pick up to pan clearance. What gives? Also, do you guys use a tach weld to hold it in place? Thanks for your help.

Sweet, thanks guys! I'm so anxious and excited to start my first build!

Hey all, I'm finally getting my 360 back from the machine shop on Monday and was wondering if I should start assembly or not. I'm asking 'cuz it might be 2 or 3 months before I can run it (still need a carb and radiator and need to rebuild or replace my trans). My worry is that the lube and oil...

Wow, thanks guys! I do have a lead foot and this is a .60 overbore so I'll be getting one since the expense is justified :D

The 360 core I got recently didn't use a windage tray and I wanted to know if I should invest in one or not. It's for a mild daily driver with an 1800 - 4800 redline at 6000 crower cam. My machinist said to spend the money elsewhere on the engine. What's YOUR opinion. Thanks!

Wonder if anyone's ever done white, that'd be sweet! lol

After reading up a bit I'm gonna try doing it myself with the heads on.

I can floor it with no smoke but as soon as I let off the gas it starts smoking.

No aftermarket stuff besides the exhaust. Engine runs strong, not sure on mileage since it could've rolled over, but it reads 75k. Could someone recommend a good compression gauge or will any do?

So I'm having smoke issues with my '72 Dart 318 putting out a lot of smoke under heavy load and when letting off such as on an off-ramp. Smells like burnt oil and has a bit of a blue hue to it. Getting about 18 MPG and it pulls a steady 20 in Hg at idle (around 800 RPM) Oil 50psi @ 2000 RPM...