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How do you get those things to crank with that much initial? Why not let the distributor bring in the timing whenever you need it?

He obviously has a oil pressure gauge, whether it be mechanical or electric. The 8 psi sender you are talking about turns on the oil light, not a gauge. Good point though, double check with a different gauge.

You said you had j heads???? Better than your trashed j heads in your original post above?

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I'm still confused!

That's what I was thinking Jeff. Could be cheap insurance. Have you or anyone you know used them?

Boy howdy!!!!!

Please elaborate. I don't know anything about them other than they have a ceramic face. Just happened to run across the website.

http://www.schubeckracing.com/flathydraulic.html $720.00 a set!!!!!!!!!!!!

I ask again, 3rd time, are all the Eagle cranks and rods of chinese manufacture? If so I guess I will go with Callies or Crower when the time comes.

I ask again, are all the Eagle cranks and rods of chinese manufacture? If so I guess I will go with Callies or Crower when the time comes.

The Eagle stuff is chinese? Wow, you learn something new every day! Thanks for the info.

Correct me if I'm wrong but could the offset style T/A rockers possibly solve this problem?

I assume some trial and error involved. I'm going to make one. It will at least get you close.

What does the piston stop look like? Is it home made or where can you purchase one? Never heard of one.

What is a piston stop? Might be a stupid question but never heard the term. Generally had the head off and measured with a dial indicator to determine exact tdc. I know both valve closed on compression stroke.

Please Max. Post very detailed instructions on how to do this properly. I would like to know. Thanks, Skybolt

Not doubting you stroked 340 but MSD engineered the system. Compression ratios, cylinder pressures, spark plug heat range? I doubt if one size fits all. Just a thought. Anyone else?

Where do you get this do GTXperience? Here is a site you and others may be interested in. Coated rod, main and cam bearings, lifters, piston skirts, etc. http://www.calicocoatings.com/

Have to agree with you Stroked 340. I started driving back in '64 right in the midst of the super car era and and they ALL had flat tappet camshafts, be it hydraulic or solid lifter. You would pick up your new ride at your favorite dealer, my 1st being a '68 Z-28, run around town a few minutes...

They advertise it as "The Green Oil". Is this the original Kendall GT-1. I used to run that stuff in my '68 Z-28 (solid lifters). When you removed the valve covers all you saw was spotless gray cast iron. Great oil!

Are these from Ohio Crankshaft? All I found listed on their website were for SB Chevy.

Shadango did you get it solved?

I would relay the info on your coil to Accel and see what they say about it. Hopefully its something that simple. I assume you have ruled out any vacuum leaks and you have already done a compression check so the engine must be in pretty good shape. I don't know of a real accurate way of getting...

Check out this article. Hope it helps. http://www.underhoodservice.com/Article/39952/diagnostic_dilemmas_the_pressures_of_intake_manifold_vacuum_tests.aspx

Err on the safe side. RTV sounds like a good idea Bob.

I know mopar knows what he is talking about but the explanation from the Eagle website better explains why you should opt for the internally balanced crank vs. the externally balanced if you are going to internally balance. Just thought it was an easier to understand explanation for the guys...

http://www.eaglerod.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=28&Itemid=25 Click on the link above. This explains the issue of internal or external balancing very well. It's right off the Eagle website. Hope this helps.

Are Eagle and Callies rotating assemblies poorly balanced also?