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I rebuilt my box and used a Mancini fast ratio gearset, and the seals from FirmFeel. As per FirmFeel's directions, pack it with bearing grease, and top it off with 80-90w gear oil to fill the viods and keep all inner surfaces covered. The box didnt take much 80-90 as it was full of grease. I...

This product was made by Firmfeel, I called them to see if they were available yet. They took down my name and number and said they would call me when production of the part is rolling. I want one to see if it will help, but I dont think they are priced yet.

I have been cruising them on the front of my car on the street for a long while now. I have the front at the 90/10 setting, which is the "drag" setting. It might be a little bit stiffer, but I really cant tell.

I have the Competition Engineering shock from Summit on all four corners and love them. This is on my 64 Valiant, I am running the 90/10 up front. They are all adjustable, and the 90/10's help with keeping the giant 8qt oil pan off the bumps. They can be had through Summit, and are very...

Ahh, yes the CHEAPER MP book. That was actually the one i was looking for, geared more towards strait line.

Is this the correct book I hear so many questions refered to? Amazon.com: Mopar Suspensions; Complete Guide For Building Mopar Suspensions For Street, Autocross and Road Racing: Mike Martin: Books

http://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/home.php?cat=276

I have a set of solid mounts on my street car stroker, yes it does vibrate, and yes you will have to do routine tightening cause they vibrate stuff loose. But I love the solids, wont ever go back to rubber.

You can adjust them. On the underside of the lower control arm there is a bolt, 11/16 if i remember correct. Soak it in WD-40 or oil for a few days before you touch it. Lift your car by the k frame so the suspension sags, then spin the bolt clockwise to raise your ride hight. Drive the car...

They are a piece of cake to pull apart and rebuild. Pull it apart, pay attention to how it comes apart, clean it out with carb or brake cleaner. They need to be re-packed with bearing/axle grease. Pack as much as possible, then work the worm gear up and down several times, then cap it all up...

Redfish, I think I just caught what you were saying: basically drill another hole in the existing frame a few inches up, and there’s the relocation. Ha, I’m going to go look and see if I have room to do that, from here it sounds insanely simple. I didn’t think of that because….?

Here are a couple pics of what we are all familiar with. I don’t think I want to drill through the connector because I would have to drill right at the joint, right at a strength point, what about cutting it back about 4 inches, and making a U shape end, where it would connect to the car at two...

square tubbing, not laser cut. I have looked through days and days of frame connector threads here, I didn’t see anything that pertained to the e-brake routing. So the general consensus id to drill mega hole through the connector?

I came across a set of MP frame connectors for free, so I got the pass. side in fine. The driver side is a problem. The e-brake cable is running through the frame, right where I need to weld the front of the connector. I really don’t want to get rid of the e-brake, so I thought of messing with...

I am running the stock 6 cyl. Springs, I had the re-arched and added a spring. I told my local spring shop I wanted the car to sit about 4 inches higher than what it did sit at. I measured wheel well lip to ground on both sides. Here are before and after pics.

I was thinkin of TTI non- fenderwell type, or possibly Dougs. they are both really expensive for the ones i want, but i've spared no expense on the motor, so I dont really wanna skimp out now.

Cool, thanks for the input. I just needed a little backup before i start hackin up my stuff. I cant wait to deal with the header issue, I dont have any yet though.

If I were to cut out the marked area, and weld in good support do ya'll think it would be strong enough? Or would it compromise the structural integrity? The motor is expected to be around 550 horse.

Well I'm not even sure I have to notch anything fo clearance, it's just what I have heard. I dont think i'll be concerned about how low it is, I'll be lifting thefront up a little bitvia torsions. I only chose this on because it is stroker clearanced. This is the pan I'll be using...

here's the K member in question

Well hello all! I am new here but have been reading alot of posts, and cant find a specific answer. I am in the process of assembling a 415 aluminum headed stroker for my 64 Valiant. I am running an 8 quart Moroso pan, and have heard alot of folks say the K member will need to be notched. The...