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Use 360 mounts, the ears on the 340 and 360 are the same. If you go to your local parts store, aks for the 360 mounts, since the 340 will throw them off.

Open chamber production heads can have chambers anywhere from 68-73 cc's, on the same head. That will give you a ballpark, but there is only one way to know for sure, have them cc'd. You can try it yourself with a piece of plexi glass, and a cc type eyedropper. Put the plexi-glass over...

I'm running the KB745 +.030 on my Magnum 408 and after 500 miles no issues. I will note that I had the shop assemble the lower end.

Center sump, I have pictures of it over here. My stroker is based on a 94 Magnum block, so our engines are close date wise. http://www.netwalk.com/~ericv/stroker.htm

I'm using a Kevco pan on my 408, no windage tray. It is an OEM pan with a additional sump and baffles added. I went with it because it added capacity and not much depth, so clearance to the ground is still good.

To put them in I have used a hockey puck as a driver, you may want to see if there is room to try it the other way. Just line the puck up on the back and see if it will clear, then beat on it to loosen it. Another option is to put the cover in the freezer and then try it after everthing is...

I picked one up at the dealership about 2 years ago for around $10. Just an option if you can't find one cheap.

For 70 and up small blocks the timing marks should be on the drivers side. And as mentioned in another post make sure your balancer has the mark to line up with the drivers side. If the balancer is the wrong one, you can always re-mark it with a paint stripe to line up. As for your current...

Use a Fram PH8 or PH16 (shorter) for cross reference, I use the Mobil 1 204 (shorter) or, Napa I don't have their number handy.

I have a SB 408 with TTI headers in my 69 Barracuda, I use the short filter with no issues. I had the 90 degree on for a while, but it started to leak, so I just used the stock plate and all is fine. On my Ramchager with 360, I have a leak with the stock plate. I bought a new one but still...

You should be able to get at least 400 HP and TQ flywheel, it will depend on what cam and pistons you are using. In my case I wanted lots of TQ, so I went with a milder cam. I do have the option of changing the cam and going for more HP. Mine is also a roller motor, so my cam whould not help...

I have a SCAT kit in my 408 and I had it balanced by them. When I had the short block done, I asked my shop to check everything out. It ends up the SCAT kit was perfect and nothing was needed to be done by my shop. I did give my machine shop the balancer and flexplate I was going to use...

I had the same issue, I just enlarged/slotted one of the holes.

I'm running a March 10250 pulley set (crank 2 groove 5 1/2", WP 6 1/2" and Alt 2 3/4"). The belt for the alt, crank and wp is a 15460. This setup has a undersized crank pully, so if you go with the standard set you will need a longer belt

Mopar Action did a 5 head test a few months ago, and were kind to the Engine Quest. They flowed very well, compared to the Mopar heads and were less then the Edelbrocks. valentek

Most of the external parts will transfer, but you may need to use spacers and such to get everything lined up. You will also need a 340/360 driver side motor mount and a 360 car oil pan (center sump). I have a Magnum 408 in my 69 Barracuda and most of the stuff I replaced, but I did reuse...

That casting number hadles 75 to the end of production in 93 for the LA. If the block has the main caps, it sounds like a decent deal. Just make sure that you have it checked out for core shift and cylinder wall thickness, cracks and all that. Just below where the driver side head is...

My Magnum has a tick also, let's see if anyone else post the same, or what to look for. Mine has always had it, and it is a fresh build 408 (less then 1000 miles). I am also running a double roller chain, so that could make it a little loud, but I don't think tick.

I'm using a TCI 904 with a Cheetah manual valve body and deep pan with a Cheetah 2900 stall (or there about), but if it goes I will be getting a better one, but still a 904. Maybe Coan or a Mancini. As for the bypass hose, just make sure the intake side is big enough to go over whatever pipe...

Here are some pictures of my 94 408 Magnum in my 69 Barracuda. Edelbrock Magnum Airgap intake with 70 up water pump. I think I just used a 74 Duster by-pass hose. If it was not from a Duster, it was a stock mid 70's hose for a Mopar. I'm pretty sure this will work on a pre 70 water pump...

Just to add more fuel to the fire. Some early roller LA and Magnums had the oil passage machined for through the head oiling, all you would have to do is use LA cam bearings so the hole is in the bearing. My 94 5.9 Magnum was this way. I ended up using the roller cam, Magnum heads and hollow...

I put a 94 truck motor in my Barracuda, I had it stroked to 408 and internally balanced. The problems I had were, none. The motor mount ears are all there so you will not need different mounts. Just make sure they are correct for either a 273/318 or 340/360. All I did was take the...

I put a 94 truck motor in my Barracuda, I had it stroked to 408 and internally balanced. The problems I had were, none. The motor mount ears are all there so you will not need different mounts. Just make sure they are correct for either a 318/340 or 360. All I did was take the front...

I'm sure you can go over .500 on the Magnum roller and stock rockers. I'm running a Hughes Engines cam with .544 lift with stock 1.6 rockers. You may want to take a look at their site and read the info/tech papers, they answer a lot of questions. Also I would recommend SA Books SA104 (How to...

As said earlier any center sump car pan will work. If you are looking for after market, I use a KEVCO and it is a very nice fit, plus added features and capacity. I have a 69 Barracuda with stroked 360/Magnum, and the pan fits without any crank clearance issues.

Just a quick thought on this, kind of inline with what others have said already. With the dizzy vacuum capped, does it still drop/increase the idle as posted earlier? Which port on the carb do you have the dizzy advance hooked up to? On the Edelbrocks it should be the passenger side port...

The early 68's had a timing tab that mounted to the bottom 2 water pump bolts and the scale was on the passenger side. As for timing, I would start out between 5 and 10 degrees BTDC, then go from there. You could bring the piston up to TDC and mark your balancer and a point on the block...

The tube in the center should be running to the PCV, and the tube on the pass side (timed port) runs to the vacuum advance on the dist, the driver side should be capped as it is manifold vacuum. Also on these carbs there is a 1/4 npt plug that goes in the back if you are not running a power...

You will need this from Edelbrock Chrysler Throttle Lever Adapter (1966 and later) #1481* or #1843* One is natural finish and the other is black. You may also need to extend your kickdown rod. Automatic Trans. Rod Extension Kit for 1/4" Rod for Chrysler #8003 Automatic Trans. Rod...

I ordered the 6 qt pan, with all the built in stuff. They have an okay picture of it on their site at kevko.net, the pickup is also pictured there, but only one angle. Eric