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CamQuest likes the XR274R (236/[email protected];0.564/0.570) 552HP@6000, 524 ft-lbs@5000. Or the XR280R (242/[email protected];0.570/0.576) 554HP@6500, 520 ft-lbs@5000. You know about OU812's retrofit roller lifters? No block machining required, they say. CamQuest shows your current setup as...

I agree it can be optimistic. Still fun to play with, though! I used 9:1 and 1.9 intake/1.6 exhaust with pocket porting, of the stock low-perf head.

CamQuest says about 340HP at the crank.

I'm using an 8-qt Milodon oil pan on my 340/416 build. Should I use a windage tray; and will the Milodon tray clear the stroker crank? Or can I just space the tray far enough away from the crank to clear it? Thanks!

OU812 isn't one to brag on himself...his profile has a link to his web site, there is more info about the orange Duster. Impressive.

Just got mine a couple of weeks ago from Nick Wilson at Compu-flow. This is a mild port (Stage 2) with exhaust porting. I also had him gasket match my Air Gap intake and mill the heads for my desired CR. Superflow 1020 @ 28" water Intake .1 60.4 .2 120.5 .3 181.2 .4 230.9 .5 261.8 .6 269.2...

Easy stuff first. Have somebody help you so they can turn the engine over slowly while you prime. You may have simply passed the sweet spot for the oil passage to the drivers side. If that doesn't work I would take off the drivers side rocker shaft to make sure it is installed correctly, or...

Ross confirmed 0.020 for top; 0.025 for second. Thanks!

There again it is a little confusing; the sheet that came with the pistons says follow the ring manufacturer's suggestions; the Ross sheet that came with the rings (which are in a Total Seal box with a Ross part number sticker) gives the .004"/inch for top ring and (I think) .005"/inch for...

The more I read about it, the more confused I get. On my 4.070 bore small block, using Ross pistons and Sealed Power rings, Ross recommends .004" gap/inch of bore for the top ring, and more for the 2nd ring. Sealed Power recommends .0045"/inch for the top ring, and less for the second ring...

I thought maybe the cam plate was supposed to seal the oil galleys. Thanks!

FABO'ers: Working on my 340 build this evening, finally. Just when I think I understand the oil system/flow path, I see something I don't understand. On the front of the block, near the end of the passenger-side oil galley, is an oil passage that goes down to the number 1 main. The small cup...

I've seen both Permatex Red and brown gasket sealer recommended for freeze plug installation. What should I use? Thanks!

From what I've heard and read, the moly eccentric is the way to go, but just to reduce wear, not for HP gain. I also read about drilling the small hole in the oil galley plug...not so sure about that one. I plan on using an electric pump anyway, but will probably use the moly eccentric and not...

NAPA didn't have one, didn't seem interested in finding one. But the other "real" parts store in town had them. It is a 9/16" plug. I got two because I have no doubt I'll screw one up trying to install it. As a side note, this store, an Auto Value store, gave my 3 y/o son a NASCAR Auto Value...

That would be awesome! I have my original, if I need to I can try to get it matched. Thanks!

Saw one that bad out of a Buick Grand National once; it had a terrible detonation problem. Cylinder wall was very bad as well. The customer knew it was having problems but drove it anyway.

I'll try it. But I haven't had much luck at the local auto parts stores when it comes to finding things. Thanks.

FABO'ers: Regarding the small cup plug that goes in the vertical oil passage that diverts the oil through the oil filter. I don't think my plug kit came with one. Where can I get one? Thanks.

Could somebody measure the approximate distance between the supports on their engine cradle that will fit a small block, and also how tall the supports are? I need to build a cradle and my block is at the machine shop. Thanks!

I hope! Waiting on the machine shop...you know how that goes.... An old buddy of mine is doing the machine work...he is going to do some of the work after hours so I can watch and learn...I can't wait!

That bothers me, too. I plan on bagging the engine with silica desiccant in the bag, when I'm not working on it.

Hahaha. Actually I could get my wife to buy off on that idea but my 3-1/2 year old son would NEVER leave my parts/tools alone. I have an attached garage that I could probably get up to the 50-60* but then my truck would be out in the cold & snow. It sure is nice to be able to hop in and go...

Got a weird question for y'all. I will most likely be assembling my engine this fall/winter in an unheated shop. I use a propane heater to make it tolerable when it is very cold out, but, I never achieve "room temperature". What, if any, effect would this have on the assembly? I'm thinking...

Far from it! I'm glad you posted in...when I ask for comments on topics like this I always wonder how many people have made mistakes and just don't want to tell anybody about it. I've gone back and forth about using a roller cam until I'm tired of thinking about it...I'd like to but, money...

I mean compared to the H-beam rods. I know it doesn't make any difference on the practical side, I just like smooth, shiny things. \\:D/ Anyway, I didn't think the bottom end was the same between the two...it was my understanding the h-beams would require some clearancing on the block...I...

I feel for you. I do the same thing when I'm dealing with somebody I don't completely trust. Mine was the same as yours...forged Eagle crank, SIR rods, Ross dish pistons, no heavy metal in the crank for internal balance.

If you don't have your flexplate or harmonic balancer yet; you can get your assembly internal balanced; then when you get your harmonic balancer and flexplate, make sure you get ones that are neutral balance (meant to work for internal balanced engine). You don't need to put any components...

I went with the SIR rods. They aren't very pretty but I hope will get the job done. I actually was going to change to the H-beams but the shop had already balanced my assembly and shipped it out. Thanks for the replies.

They only need the rotating assembly. Crank, pistons, rods, rod bearings, pins, pin locks, rings. http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/ctrp_0504_engine_balancing_tech_terminology/index.html