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I was also wondering how the Slant 6 to V8 conversion motor mounts worked on 67+ A bodies. Do TTI and Doug's headed work with them?

This being an old post made me wonder how long I'd been a member. Checked it out, almost nine years, time flies when you're having fun. Before I found this place I really thought I was the only one in the world that liked the early A's.

Hard to tell the quality of build by the pictures but I think I like it!

Always nice when somebody has done it before. Probably an excellent start covering most of the problems to be expected.

That's interesting as you can see the car doesn't look like the type to have after market bling items. It was so stock looking I was thinking that maybe it was original or possibly dealer installed when new.

This Valiant was a mess but had lots of potential being fairly straight with good trim. I went out of my way to check it out, it was parked way in the back of the Pomona Auto Swap meet. Not for sale or anything I'm pretty sure it was somebody's driver probably a workers.

Valiant Signet with a gas cap body trim around it. Never seen one before did they come on all Signets?

The 67 and later A bodies like the Duster you mentioned would be a much easier conversion. Nothing about a Hemi swap will be cheap though. We talking 426 Hemi or a late model style out if a newer car. Probably doesn't matter but just curious?

Who makes a swap kit to put a Hemi or big block in an early A body? What did you use for motor mounts?

Putting anything bigger than a small block V8 in a 66 and earlier Barracuda requires a massive amount of work and fabrication. It's basicly all custom work with no off the self parts to make the swap. Then the real ***** is the small pysical size of the engine compartment. That's where the...

Sounds like the frame rails are the same between early 64-66 and later 67-73 regardless. There is only one right place to attach them on any mopar A body whether complete or partial replacement of a frame rail.:D

Nice!

Probably have to re balance the rotating assembly with the piston swap.

Should be a direct swap if everything else is factory 273.

Original 14x5.5 wheels $50 ea. 14" hubcaps $50ea. Lug nuts $2-3 ea. Would be my guess, wheels are perfect for any early formula s or valiant. I, d buy the lugnuts, wheels and caps would cost to much to ship. I agree though they should be kept with the car.

Looks like it's right to me, maybe just a little adjustment needed to line them up. Hard to tell for sure in the picture as far as adjustment goes.

As others have said you can adjust the ride height by using a 3/4" socket on the bolt that goes straight up from the bottom center of the lower control arm. If it was me I would start by going counter clockwise three complete turns then drive it and see how it looks. then take smaller adjustment...

Here is a picture of the rear quarter window area. The window should roll up approximately a 1/4" above that lower rubber seal and rest against it. I'm pretty sure that is the seal I don't think the window actually sinks up into the rubber seal, it may just butt up against that second or top...

Not sure I understand the issue but the windows don't really roll up into a channel in the rubber or the door wouldn't open without rolling down the window.

My time is better spent at work earning a wage. I will then pay someone else to find a parts car, buy it, tow it home, store it, take it apart, advertise parts, deal with interested buyers, sell parts, package parts, and ship parts. The worst part of all is buyers think you should do it...

I'm waiting for the pictures later this year of the Valiant out performing Brian Hobaugh, 1965 Corvette and Mark Stielow, 1967 Camaro :-D Wouldn't that be cool?

Can't wait to see how the new front clip turns out. If guys here haven't been following along, they cut off the complete front frame and clip. Normally Id would frown on that, but these guys I'm pretty sure are going to make it bad *** just like the rear of the car.

I dig the Early "A's" fun cars.

the mustang wheels won't fit completely over the hub and seat down without modification. Some guys are running spacers to make them fit for both the backspacing and hub problem I think. 17X8 you can probably run longer studs and a somewhat wide spacer (possible up to 1"" to make it work). If you...

To get a 17X9 on the front you would need about 6.3" of back spacing on the wheel to have the tire not hit the outside fender lip. The problem with 17" and smaller diameter wheels is the outer tie rod end will hit the wheel or tire with more than about 5" of back spacing. The picture below...

This thing is looking pretty bad a$$! http://bangshift.com/blog/category/project-cars/mopar-projects

Thing I do like about the TTI early "A" header is the 3" collector vs the 2.5" that Dougs Headers use. There is just not much room in the early A's, both companies did the best they could for the room available. There's always the fender well header option, but of coarse those have their own set...

I have installed a set and the clearances around the torsion bars on drivers side is very tight. You would be hard pressed to install some of the larger performance bars in the available space provided. They are also close to the frame on the driver side, so close I had to relocate the...

Here is a tow package on a 66 Formula S 4 speed. I don't think the hitch was factory though.

So whats the rule on the strut bars? Match the K member? I know they are slightly longer on one or the other.