How well do early A TTI header fit?

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az426hemi

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Hello, anyone here have an early a that they drive often that has the TTI headers for the early a?

How are the clearances for the tubes after the installation? Do they hit anywhere? I know that they can be a PITA to install but I want to know how they fit after the installation.


Thanks,
Mike
 
I have installed a set and the clearances around the torsion bars on drivers side is very tight. You would be hard pressed to install some of the larger performance bars in the available space provided. They are also close to the frame on the driver side, so close I had to relocate the distribution block for the brake lines as the header would of been hitting it. Haven't had the car up and running yet but with good motor mounts and the motor being properly located per the TTI directions I don't expect there to be any issues, surprises or rattles.
 
Helped a friend put them on his 66 cuda. He has 1" torsion bars and the headers are super tight. I know if I do another early Abody I'm not using Tti for that reason
 
Any other headers made to work in the early A bodies that are under chassis?

Thanks
 
Really tough with a 4 speed setup using the later 10.5 clutch setup.
 
They are tight, you have to get a special starter if you're running a 727 or a 10.5 clutch. and once they are in you have to leave the motor mount loose so you can riggle the motor a round to clear the torsion bars. I'm running factory A body big block bars in a 65 Cuda with a 4 sp so you have to monkey a round with the fork to stop it from rubbing the headers. Overall I'd use them again though.
And I'd say it's only a 6 out of 10 in the hard department. If you can mini tub or move the springs in it's not to bad of a job. But considering how much you pay, yes they should have better fitment.
 
Mine just arrived today and the car wont be ready for headers for at least 90 or more days. I might try dropping an empty block with a set of heads on it just to see how everything fits. Mine is a 66 dart with a 904 automatic. I'll be watching this thread very carefully. I did buy the smaller high torque starter. Hoping everything fits up!
Rodney
 
Thing I do like about the TTI early "A" header is the 3" collector vs the 2.5" that Dougs Headers use. There is just not much room in the early A's, both companies did the best they could for the room available. There's always the fender well header option, but of coarse those have their own set of draw backs like limits on front tire size, low hanging exhaust and cutting up your car.
 
Thing I do like about the TTI early "A" header is the 3" collector vs the 2.5" that Dougs Headers use. There is just not much room in the early A's, both companies did the best they could for the room available. There's always the fender well header option, but of coarse those have their own set of draw backs like limits on front tire size, low hanging exhaust and cutting up your car.

Agreed. I have them on my Barracuda. Mine is a drag car so I left the /6 bars in. I am also running a beefed up 904 so I can use the Mopar mini starter. Tight fit but no issues with rubbing or rattling. IMO they are extremely well engineered considering the lack of available space. I had Dougs fender wells on a previous Barracuda that worked great except I only had about 80% of steering.
 

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The Dougs fit great on our early A's mine have been modded from a 21/2'' to 3'' collector a easy fab to do so you can run 3'' exhaust.
 
They are tight, you have to get a special starter if you're running a 727 or a 10.5 clutch. and once they are in you have to leave the motor mount loose so you can riggle the motor a round to clear the torsion bars. I'm running factory A body big block bars in a 65 Cuda with a 4 sp so you have to monkey a round with the fork to stop it from rubbing the headers. Overall I'd use them again though.
And I'd say it's only a 6 out of 10 in the hard department. If you can mini tub or move the springs in it's not to bad of a job. But considering how much you pay, yes they should have better fitment.

I do have the 10.5 clutch. Keith do you also?

Mike
 
I do have the 10.5 clutch. Keith do you also?
Mike

Yes I do, I'm running a 360 crate motor. The clutch fork will rub the headers, but I moved the pivot inside the bell housing up by an 1/8 by slotting the holes in the pivot. My car is still at the body shop with no motor or trans right now. When it goes together for the final time I may decide to go with a hydraulic clutch. But before I pulled it all apart I did have clutch fork clearing the headers.
 
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