‘65 4 Speed Hump Install

[MidnightSwinger]

Getting ready to cut the floor for the Brewers 4 speed hump.

Do I need to cut out the area under the “flap” that hangs off the passenger side? Otherwise my plan it to mark the hump and cut 1” inside that line.

I’ve done this before on 67-76 cars, so I know to avoid the crossmember, but any other tips or tricks for an early A installation are appreciated.

 

[MidnightSwinger]

Someone on Facebook shared this with me, is that really all the needs to be cut out?

 

[RustyRatRod]

I think that's it, yeah. The factory of course cut out a lot more real estate. Whoever did that, it sure is a clean job.

 

[MidnightSwinger]

I think that's it, yeah. The factory of course cut out a lot more real estate. Whoever did that, it sure is a clean job.

Do you know what the extra flap is for?

 

[chewy]

Someone on Facebook shared this with me, is that really all the needs to be cut out?

Not really impressed by the hack job in that FB pic. Shift rods on the inside of the car and tweaked and bent to accommodate not putting the tunnel in right, seems like an issue waiting to happen to me.

I don't have non carpeted pics of my original floor speed hump from the top, but the Brewers parts help you get close without having to try to re-engineer te hurst shifter rods.
Every where the tunnel hits the floor is cut and welded, to give room for proper installation of the shifter and.rods. Only the top of the shifter is inside the car.

 

[MidnightSwinger]

Not really impressed by the hack job in that FB pic. Shift rods on the inside of the car and tweaked and bent to accommodate not putting the tunnel in right, seems like an issue waiting to happen to me.

I don't have non carpeted pics of my original floor speed hump from the top, but the Brewers parts help you get close without having to try to re-engineer te hurst shifter rods.
Every where the tunnel hits the floor is cut and welded, to give room for proper installation of the shifter and.rods. Only the top of the shifter is inside the car.

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I appreciate the pictures.

I disagree with your assessment of the FB picture. There is no hump installed in this picture, the picture is demonstrating the amount of metal necessary to remove.

The hump still gets installed over the shift rods, like the factory did. The 1-2 and 3-4 shift rods in your car go over the torsion bar crossmember the same way.

 

[Murray]

The shift rods in the Facebook photo appear to be modified to install that way.

 

[MidnightSwinger]

The shift rods in the Facebook photo appear to be modified to install that way.

I’m not sure as this is a third hand picture, I don’t have direct experience. I’d like to cut as little of the floor as possible. I’m going to try it and if it doesn’t work, I’ll widen the cut.

 

[MidnightSwinger]

I’m also running an aftermarket Mr Gasket shifter. Same reverse rod but totally different 1-4 rods.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Do you know what the extra flap is for?

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I am clueless, but I've always wondered.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Not really impressed by the hack job in that FB pic. Shift rods on the inside of the car and tweaked and bent to accommodate not putting the tunnel in right, seems like an issue waiting to happen to me.

I don't have non carpeted pics of my original floor speed hump from the top, but the Brewers parts help you get close without having to try to re-engineer te hurst shifter rods.
Every where the tunnel hits the floor is cut and welded, to give room for proper installation of the shifter and.rods. Only the top of the shifter is inside the car.

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I have to disagree. First, those shift rods will not be inside the car once the floor hump is installed and secondly, that job is a very clean one and I'd be proud of it, compared to how the factory hacked it up. I've seen some really nasty factory four speed floors that had to be Friday or Monday jobs. But in my opinion, none of the factory four speed floors look very clean at all.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I’m not sure as this is a third hand picture, I don’t have direct experience. I’d like to cut as little of the floor as possible. I’m going to try it and if it doesn’t work, I’ll widen the cut.

Exactly. It just makes more sense to cut as little as possible. Just because the factory hacked them all to heck and back, doesn't mean we have to. I rather like the install you shared. Do you have a finished picture?

 

[MidnightSwinger]

Exactly. It just makes more sense to cut as little as possible. Just because the factory hacked them all to heck and back, doesn't mean we have to. I rather like the install you shared. Do you have a finished picture?

No, the only finished picture was after the carpet install. He still used the factory 64-65 hump apparently. Again all my information is from a second hand source.

I like the idea of cutting the floor as little as possible for structural rigidity. I’m using a fiberglass hump bolted in vs the factory metal welded piece. Gives some piece of mind.

 

[RustyRatRod]

No, the only finished picture was after the carpet install. He still used the factory 64-65 hump apparently. Again all my information is from a second hand source.

I like the idea of cutting the floor as little as possible for structural rigidity. I’m using a fiberglass hump bolted in vs the factory metal welded piece. Gives some piece of mind.

I think the fiberglass humps are nice. I helped a friend install one. We actually used a 30 year caulk and bonded it in. It worked surprisingly well and required no holes drilled, which I kinda liked.

 

[Bob Jasinski]

Here's pictures of my steel factory hump install in my '65 Barracuda FS. Note the right flap adds height for clearance of the top right corner of the 4 speed. There was no engine in the body, so I bolted the transmission/bellhousing assembly to the rear mount and supported the bellhousing across the inner fenders. The hump was stitch welded like the factory did after these pictures were taken. I believe I got it right, The car should be back from the body shop in about 3 months.

 

[MidnightSwinger]

Here's pictures of my steel factory hump install. Note the right flap adds height for clearance of the top right corner of the 4 speed. There was no engine in the body, so I bolted the transmission/bellhousing assembly to the rear mount and supported the bellhousing across the inner fenders. The hump was stitch welded like the factory did after these pictures were taken. I believe I got it right, The car should be back from the body shop in about 3 months.

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Excellent documentation, I appreciate it.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Here's pictures of my steel factory hump install in my '65 Barracuda FS. Note the right flap adds height for clearance of the top right corner of the 4 speed. There was no engine in the body, so I bolted the transmission/bellhousing assembly to the rear mount and supported the bellhousing across the inner fenders. The hump was stitch welded like the factory did after these pictures were taken. I believe I got it right, The car should be back from the body shop in about 3 months.

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That looks great, Bob! Nice work! It also explains the extra flap going over on the passenger's side of the hump.

 

[bb66cuda]

Here are a few pics of an entire floor that I cut out with the hump still installed. As you can see the factory did cut away where the flap is.

 

[JDMopar]

That helps a lot....and saved me from making a boo boo when I put the hump in my 65 Barracuda. I was gonna take the zizz wheel and cut the flap off flush and send it!

 

[MidnightSwinger]

That helps a lot....and saved me from making a boo boo when I put the hump in my 65 Barracuda. I was gonna take the zizz wheel and cut the flap off flush and send it!

Im going to test fit with a BFH, if it doesn’t fit after a few well placed whacks, I’ll cut it.

 

[Slantsix64]

I drilled in my floor hump in with a couple sheet metal screws and use silicone to seal it, it way easier to work on the shift linkage also removing and reinstalling purposes . The Facebook post is how I did mine, I don’t see the need for removing more than you need too.

 

[MidnightSwinger]

I drilled in my floor hump in with a couple sheet metal screws and use silicone to seal it, it way easier to work on the shift linkage also removing and reinstalling purposes . The Facebook post is how I did mine, I don’t see the need for removing more than you need too.

Did you have to cut the extra flap on the passenger side to clear the transmission case?

 

[MidnightSwinger]

It’s done, I didn’t use the flap on the hump, just a BFH and took some frustration out on it.

 

[mopowers]

Hell yeah Jared! Get'n it done!! But how dare you cut such a pristine floor like that.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Looks real nice, Jared!