100 shot of nitrous on 360 magnum engine

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PG Duster

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I have a 1974 duster with 3.91 gear 8 3/4 sure grip rear end, 727 trans built with a 3500 stall converter. The engine is a 2000 360 magnum stock bottom and EQ cylinder head with 2.02 intake valves, headers and mild roller cam. 9:1 compression ratio , Edelbrock RPM airgap intake manifold and a 750 Holley carburetor., MSD ignition system. The car runs 12.80s, what do you guys think about 100 shot nitrous system on this combination? And what be the safe max before catastrophic failure occurs? My goal is 11.60s quarter mile. your input will be great.
 
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I ran a 250 cheater on a 74 440. Started at 100 then kept upping it till getting to the 250 shot. Made lots of passes with it at 250. I had a separate fuel pump for nos. Kim
 
I ran a 250 cheater on a 74 440. Started at 100 then kept upping it till getting to the 250 shot. Made lots of passes with it at 250. I had a separate fuel pump for nos. Kim


Ok, that’s great, my My concerns is that I have cast pistons. I think a separate fuel pump is a great idea.
 
I think you have more in that combo than 12.8's. However, most stock blocks will handle a 100 shot, but that "extra 100 hp" on top of the already "extra hp" of stress will shorten the life of a stock bottom end
 
It'll hold up just fine. Just don't get stupid trying to lean it out and go faster. You'll be sorry.
 
I think you have more in that combo than 12.8's. However, most stock blocks will handle a 100 shot, but that "extra 100 hp" on top of the already "extra hp" of stress will shorten the life of a stock bottom end


That’s what concerns me. I’m sure their is more than 12.80s in my combo. As is the car is very consistent on the strip, it will be a great bracket car.
 
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It'll hold up just fine. Just don't get stupid trying to lean it out and go faster. You'll be sorry.

I just ordered a Nitrous Xpress plate system that is adjustable from 50 to 250 Shot, waiting for it to be delivered. I just watched a person at the. When I was racing at the strip Thursday, I saw a guy with a 6.1 hemi in a pick up truck shooting 250 shot and it was too lean, he had to tow it home.
 
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I just ordered a Nitrous Xpress plate system that is adjustable from 50 to 250 Shot. I just watched a person get stupid with a 6.1 hemi in a pick up truck shooting 250 shot and it was too late he had to tow it home
It's tempting to do. It'll continue to pick up as you lean it out, but don't do it. I never did it even with forged pistons. IMO, it's always safe to run a little on the fat side. Runs a little cooler, helps prevent detonation......it's just a win/win. That's just one old man's opinion.
 
I just ordered a Nitrous Xpress plate system that is adjustable from 50 to 250 Shot. I just watched a person get aggressive with a 6.1 hemi in a pick up truck shooting 250 shot and it was too lean and he had to tow it home
 
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It's tempting to do. It'll continue to pick up as you lean it out, but don't do it. I never did it even with forged pistons. IMO, it's always safe to run a little on the fat side. Runs a little cooler, helps prevent detonation......it's just a win/win. That's just one old man's opinion.

Another old man says to you, that’s good advice. I want to be safe.
 
Thanks you guys, Is there any other advice or input. I will be putting nitrous on the car in about two - three weeks. So all information would be helpful.
 
Things I consider mandatory for a successful nitrous system are as follows;
1. Healthy base engine
2. Strong, well sorted ignition system with some kind of programmable retard for nitrous activation.
3. Separate nitrous fuel system with good fuel in it.
4. Good fuel supply (read: big fuel pumps) on both the engine side and the nitrous side.
Make sure the fuel pressure is rock solid the entire time and set the nitrous system fuel pressure dynamically through the solenoids, with the lines flowing into a bucket. Lots of people will say they have had successful use of nitrous without some of this stuff and it is possible but lots of people blow stuff up and nitrous get the blame when it’s the supporting hardware and set up that actually caused the problem. Last and definitely not least, get really, really good at reading spark plugs. Have fun.
 
According to NOS, any V8 will safely take a 150 shot if fueled and tuned properly.
 
Things I consider mandatory for a successful nitrous system are as follows;
1. Healthy base engine
2. Strong, well sorted ignition system with some kind of programmable retard for nitrous activation.
3. Separate nitrous fuel system with good fuel in it.
4. Good fuel supply (read: big fuel pumps) on both the engine side and the nitrous side.
Make sure the fuel pressure is rock solid the entire time and set the nitrous system fuel pressure dynamically through the solenoids, with the lines flowing into a bucket. Lots of people will say they have had successful use of nitrous without some of this stuff and it is possible but lots of people blow stuff up and nitrous get the blame when it’s the supporting hardware and set up that actually caused the problem. Last and definitely not least, get really, really good at reading spark plugs. Have fun.

Thank you, that’s a good list to help get things sorted out.
According to NOS, any V8 will safely take a 150 shot if fueled and tuned properly.
 
what I use is a fuel pressure switch a rpm activated window switch a progressive controller and a timing retard like a msd start and step also a bottle heater is a good idea with a temp switch but I tend to be on the safe side .
 
According to NOS, any V8 will safely take a 150 shot if fueled and tuned properly.
According to NOS, any V8 will safely take a 150 shot if fueled and tuned properly.


Thank you, that’s good info, I will most likely run 100 shot to be conservative for now, maybe 150 later when everything is sorted out.
 
what I use is a fuel pressure switch a rpm activated window switch a progressive controller and a timing retard like a msd start and step also a bottle heater is a good idea with a temp switch but I tend to be on the safe side .

some of those things were on my list, but you did add some more that is a good idea. I want to be safe, and avoid catastrophic failure.
 
Most of your failure issues related to nitrous use are related to improper ring gap rather than just the piston material. Hyper slugs that came in stock magnums will handle the heat and pressure for what you're asking, but the rings being gapped too close will cause them to fail before the pistons metallurgically fail. This is of course assuming you take proper precautions regarding mixture, ignition timing, and activation conditions.
 
Things I consider mandatory for a successful nitrous system are as follows;
1. Healthy base engine
2. Strong, well sorted ignition system with some kind of programmable retard for nitrous activation.
3. Separate nitrous fuel system with good fuel in it.
4. Good fuel supply (read: big fuel pumps) on both the engine side and the nitrous side.
Make sure the fuel pressure is rock solid the entire time and set the nitrous system fuel pressure dynamically through the solenoids, with the lines flowing into a bucket. Lots of people will say they have had successful use of nitrous without some of this stuff and it is possible but lots of people blow stuff up and nitrous get the blame when it’s the supporting hardware and set up that actually caused the problem. Last and definitely not least, get really, really good at reading spark plugs. Have fun.


Bingo! Nitrous often gets blamed for failure to properly configure or use a system
 
Great input, I did the bear minimum when I ran my Camero on a 100 shot and crossed my fingers.



Lol
6F1757C3-81BE-41C3-B875-97E0E3354392.png
 
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I almost have your exact same set up. My guy assured and reassured me the 100 kit was absolutely nothing to worry about and there was no need for extra fuel pump, constant timing adjustments etc etc. The motor is not broken in so I havent used it.
That said, I'd say if you car is that consistent you have a hard to beat car
 
Most of your failure issues related to nitrous use are related to improper ring gap rather than just the piston material. Hyper slugs that came in stock magnums will handle the heat and pressure for what you're asking, but the rings being gapped too close will cause them to fail before the pistons metallurgically fail. This is of course assuming you take proper precautions regarding mixture, ignition timing, and activation conditions.


What is meant by activation conditions?
 
RPM, throttle position, fuel pressure--window and safety switches as mentioned above by TT5.9
 
FD2C4AC7-65F5-4EBE-8E5B-AB36C5B14897.png
I almost have your exact same set up. My guy assured and reassured me the 100 kit was absolutely nothing to worry about and there was no need for extra fuel pump, constant timing adjustments etc etc. The motor is not broken in so I havent used it.
That said, I'd say if you car is that consistent you have a hard to beat car

I have a fresh .030 over engine too. And it’s broken in, I’m looking at how to set up the nitrous fuel system with the existing carb fuel system. Any pictures on your set up, I want to make it clean with the nitrous and fuel solenoids.

BC0B2331-0616-495D-B873-E9A1E921B35D.jpeg


A5AF20F0-F90C-444A-BC22-77C4EE017095.jpeg
 
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