11/32 valves in X heads

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360z28, I bought the heads, not knowing that the guides were 11/32". I didn't find out untill I got them(ebay). The chevy stuff has thinner-11/32" stems and are lighter- and mostly cheaper. I agreed to have them installed VS new guides and a new set of 3/8" stem mopar valves. This would not have been my choice if I'd have pulled the heads off a running motor complete and in stock form, needing a rebuild. I think the guy I got the heads from didn't know what was done to them. I thought I was going to be able to get a set of 2.02/1.6- 3/8" stem mopar valves, lap them in and assemble the heads and bolt on. Now I'm faced with new locks and retainers and a set of adj. rockers in addition to the extra machine work. Maybe the $1500 for aluminum heads would have been a better decision.
 
lighter vavles are good , thinner wil make more flow.. just be sure that the stem height is corect with the std rockers u have, and that the tip meets the stem nice.. i dont know what cam ur having in there.. but if it aint that mutch lift, ithink u should be fine, (rollers will btw not push the stem as mutch as the std would, as u can have em bit more off the center. still the pushrod angle would suffer) after all, after any valve job, seat cutting u would also end up with slightly higher stems... that u should grind down
 
Norway, the fix is to mill the rocker stands down flat and use shaft support blocks like the W2 long valve heads. Then you can position the shaft up, down, forward, or back as needed.

mmmm that would worke, havnt thought of that before..... maybe lift and pull em against the valley, for better geometry on the 1,6 rollers.. as usual u come with handy solutions.. ill keep that mod in my mind for later use.. tnx mate :) but im not sure if i would have paid for it on a set off x / j heads :p
 
honestly.... buy a better set of heads..lol. These are when you HAVE to use factory heads... It will be cheaper in the long run to just use better stuff.
 
What would be better? This is a street car with a mild motor, and trying to stay low buck. One of the stock 360 heads had a crack from the lazy dumba$$es at the junkyard yanking it out with the exuast still on. If not for the crack, I'd have used them. I'm just trying to build a reliable, drivable street motor with around 300hp and good torque. And it's gonna be dressed like the factory commando 273 my car came with. I have the correct valve covers and air cleaner, but I'm gonna run spitfire headers. I might even have a larger dia. 2 into 1 exaust put on and exit thru a single large tip that looks like the factory resonator. I love sleepers....oh, it's gonna have ac also.
 
I'm not sure what engine you're working on. But for what you're looking to run... Something like the Aerohead iron remans or the EQ-type Magnums will support that power for under $600-700 with shipping. You'll have more in the X heads than that to get them runable. I also have a '65.. I'm using a mild 360 dressed as the 273/270hp engine in it. No need for massive power in these light cars.
 
Thats the same car I'm putting together. The motor is a 78 360 block. Orig. a 273 4bbl w/a floor shift 904. got a pic?
 
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