12:05 Garage- ’70 Duster build
- Thread starter racerjoe
- Start date
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That one is a bit large
bjkadron
Well-Known Member
Fair. I think the camaro ones are a great size for a street car and look good.
Much better.. sometimes less is more. I think @JBrian used a Ford Ranger or something his. Looks pretty good too
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I know, I know.....
JBrian
Well-Known Member
The spoiler is a 1991-1994 Ford Ranger front valance. I'll get some better pictures this weekend
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racerjoe
Well-Known Member
Dammit Dan.....Spoiler procured....
Nice work! A lot of good info here. Thanks for sharing
DusterDilly
Mopar its a way of life
What a thread! Wow
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I think I've mentioned here the problem with gear oil making its way out the vent on the rearend when I autocross. My initial solution was to add a hose with about 4 loops in it. That proved to only work for a short time. I assume the loops were just holding oil and it was just a matter of time before it started getting pushed out. I searched all ends of the internet looking for a rearend vent catch can for a 70 Duster and guess what, nobody makes one... I can't believe it. So here I am again coming up with a solution to remediate a problem caused by making this 55 year old car do stuff it was never intended to do. You know all that scrap and spare parts you keep in your garage thinking you will need it one day. The day finally came for that stuff.
I had a couple things in mind when it came to designing something. I wanted it to be a simple bolt in and drain back on its own so I don't have an added maintenance item. So here it is. That's a piece of 1/2" pipe I threaded inside with 3/8"NPT. The bottom is a 3/8"NPT to 6AN (way overkill) and the top is a sintered brass vent cap. I stuffed some steel wool inside the pipe to catch the oil. A quick placement of the angle finder on the bolt head that holds the brake line bracket gave me the angle I needed to bend some flat bar to make it level.
Here it is mounted under the car. It's perfectly vertical and above the axle tubes. I used the stock vent hole location in the housing with a bolt I drilled a hole through, then drilled and tapped the head to 1/8"NPT where an 6AN adapter was screwed into. I hope this solves the problem once and for all.
I had a couple things in mind when it came to designing something. I wanted it to be a simple bolt in and drain back on its own so I don't have an added maintenance item. So here it is. That's a piece of 1/2" pipe I threaded inside with 3/8"NPT. The bottom is a 3/8"NPT to 6AN (way overkill) and the top is a sintered brass vent cap. I stuffed some steel wool inside the pipe to catch the oil. A quick placement of the angle finder on the bolt head that holds the brake line bracket gave me the angle I needed to bend some flat bar to make it level.
Here it is mounted under the car. It's perfectly vertical and above the axle tubes. I used the stock vent hole location in the housing with a bolt I drilled a hole through, then drilled and tapped the head to 1/8"NPT where an 6AN adapter was screwed into. I hope this solves the problem once and for all.
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JBrian
Well-Known Member
These goes your parts stash!
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I registered for what was formally known as the CAM Challenge in St. Louis. They changed the name to Tire Rack SCCA Shootout since they are now allowing other SCCA classes join. They will still have the shootout on Sunday, which starts with some percentage of the fastest cars property, then drills down run after run until a winner is crowned. All the CAM and XS cars will race against each other in the shootout instead of being divided up into their respective classes. Without making the shootout, I should get around 13 runs without making the shootout. This includes up to 5 runs on a test and tune track the day before the event.
Time to see how I stack up on a national level. I'm honestly not expecting much. I'm going to have a good time, see some different cars, and meet some like minded people. @JBrian will be there as well. I'm pretty sure we will be the only Mopar products out there. I can only imagine the comments with us having the only 2 (that I'm aware of) autocross prepared, all black, G3 swapped Dusters on the same property.
Time to see how I stack up on a national level. I'm honestly not expecting much. I'm going to have a good time, see some different cars, and meet some like minded people. @JBrian will be there as well. I'm pretty sure we will be the only Mopar products out there. I can only imagine the comments with us having the only 2 (that I'm aware of) autocross prepared, all black, G3 swapped Dusters on the same property.
4mulas
Fixem'up
Did you change the front spring hangers to accommodate the extra 1/2” front segment length of the spring? You need to have a shorter hanger (hole for the eyelet of the spring closer to the front of the car). Arengineering AR118 is a part made just for this.
Perhaps if you did it wouldn’t have forced the front segment into that ‘posture”?
I’m asking all this as I’m contemplating trying the springs but with the appropriate front hanger.
Thanks
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
I have the offest leaf spring hangers, those hangers won't work. Just drill a new hole forward and use your stock hanger. However, I wouldn't bother wasting your money on those springs unless you have a slant 6 car that weighs 2400lbs. It isn't worth the headache and money. Get with Bergman Auto for some springs, or get the Hotchkis. I'm very happy with the Hotchkis. The car sits nice and low.
This post your are quoting is fairly old. I've long since fixed the driveline angle problem. It had nothing to do with the rearend angle. Ultimately, it was the trans cross member supplied by Keisler Engineering. I've replaced the rubber mount with a poly mount because the weight of the trans alone would crush the rubber. I also added 1" of spacers to bring the tail shaft up. It probably wouldn't have been a problem running super stock springs or something else that gets the *** end in the air, but it was a no go with a low ride height.
JBrian
Well-Known Member
I believe we're in for a royal *** kicking. However, since I routinely race with top 20 ranked autocross drivers in STL, it will be nothing new. The good news is, plenty of runs, great friends and racing. Bring a thick skin, lots of trash talking at our races!
You have really taken your time to make the perfect Duster and you didn't even start with an H code that's what I like....Your build didn't cut any corners and is super practical and functional...any latest interior pics....great job...you inspire me!!!
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
The interior hasn't changed at all since the beginning except for the addition of a Corbeau racing seat when I autocross. I made it bolt into the TMI mounts, so its an easy swap. BTW, I really don't care about VIN codes. If this was a real 340 car, it would still look the same as it does today. I didn't build it to sell it, but if I did, I bet a nicely done pro touring car with a G3 swap would get equal or more money than a restored 340 car. Two different buyers for that deal.
JBrian
Well-Known Member
Real funny wise guy!
you weren't supposed to see that
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure he has a picture of his car murdering a cone.
JBrian
Well-Known Member
The SCCA photographer missed the time I spun crossing the finish line last summer. You can ask any of the local CAM-T guys about that one. I just missed the timing equipment, maybe 10 cones in one shot, the crowd when wild, it was epic!
I can only imagine the amount of violent, offensive language coming out of your mouth... Well, at least that's been my experience anyway.
Too bad it wasn't caught on film.. or digital.. or whatever it is
JBrian
Well-Known Member
In the moment, when you're going about 45MPH, turning HARD to the right, and you know you're probably right on the knife's edge of traction, things happen VERY quickly! I immediately felt the back-end get loose, countered steered, but not this time buddy, we're doing a 360! I have other in-car videos of spinning, but I can't share them here
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