70DusterBob
Well-Known Member
Anyone know if anyone makes a 170 Thermostat for a 1975 360? LA
170 Thermostat?
- Thread starter 70DusterBob
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Go to the source, thermostat manufacturers website.
170 is an odd number for SB what are you trying to accomplish
170 is an odd number for SB what are you trying to accomplish
pishta
I know I'm right....
you really want it to run at 180-192 for best cylinder wear. Are you battling a cooling issue? I dont think a 170 will fix that. Whats the underlying issue?
I agree. Maybe study up on what the thermostat actually does and what it really controls instead of trying to reinvent the wheel. I would run a 180 or 195. I plan on a 195 high flow in the big block I am putting together.
70DusterBob
Well-Known Member
Well, if you really gotta know, lol...
I'm running a Blueprint Engines 408 high performance, street/strip.
I have a Derale fan controller controlling Derale fans. They have a 15 degree gap between on and off. So with a 180 therm, I would have to have them come on at 198 or so for them to shut off in conjunction with the thermostat. I don't want it to get to 198, that is too close to the top. If I had a 170, I could turn them on at 190 and they would shut off at 175, or 190 to shut them off at 170.
198 is too hot here in Tx where the asphalt gets to 150 easy. When the atmospheric temp is 105, it just won't cool from 198. Too hot. I don't like pushing it to 198 or 195, I could turn my head away from the gauge for 2 seconds and it could go from 195 to 210 in a heart beat, plus, it takes a lot longer to cool from 195 than from 190 even. It is either the 170 or 160 in the summer here, or it won't cool. In the winter, I can run 190 without a problem, but I would still need a 170 therm to do that.
If you know how to set a Derale fancy controller to start and shut off within say 10 degrees, I could keep the 180.
I'm running a Blueprint Engines 408 high performance, street/strip.
I have a Derale fan controller controlling Derale fans. They have a 15 degree gap between on and off. So with a 180 therm, I would have to have them come on at 198 or so for them to shut off in conjunction with the thermostat. I don't want it to get to 198, that is too close to the top. If I had a 170, I could turn them on at 190 and they would shut off at 175, or 190 to shut them off at 170.
198 is too hot here in Tx where the asphalt gets to 150 easy. When the atmospheric temp is 105, it just won't cool from 198. Too hot. I don't like pushing it to 198 or 195, I could turn my head away from the gauge for 2 seconds and it could go from 195 to 210 in a heart beat, plus, it takes a lot longer to cool from 195 than from 190 even. It is either the 170 or 160 in the summer here, or it won't cool. In the winter, I can run 190 without a problem, but I would still need a 170 therm to do that.
If you know how to set a Derale fancy controller to start and shut off within say 10 degrees, I could keep the 180.
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70DusterBob
Well-Known Member
What do you mean "Go to the mfg's website"?
The cooler thermostat will not make it run cooler. That's not how it works. Do like I suggested and read up on it.
pishta
I know I'm right....
Get the 10 degree controller?
16759
16759
- Adjustable turn-on temperature from 150-240°F
- Turn-off temperature is preset at 10°F below turn-on temperature
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Go to the Stewart Components web site and buy from them. They are worth every penny.
Cylinder bore from 170 degree coolant is a non factor. The difference in cylinder growth in 20 degrees is not enough to cause wear.
170 makes more power but takes a different tune up. If you are into emissions, catalytic converters and junk like that, run the 195. If you want horsepower, run the 170 and tune it for it. If you live in a temperate climate you may be able to use a 160. Or, if you only drive in warmer temps you can use it. I drive year around and in sub freezing weather so 170 is about as low as I can go and still get an effective heater.
Cylinder bore from 170 degree coolant is a non factor. The difference in cylinder growth in 20 degrees is not enough to cause wear.
170 makes more power but takes a different tune up. If you are into emissions, catalytic converters and junk like that, run the 195. If you want horsepower, run the 170 and tune it for it. If you live in a temperate climate you may be able to use a 160. Or, if you only drive in warmer temps you can use it. I drive year around and in sub freezing weather so 170 is about as low as I can go and still get an effective heater.
70DusterBob
Well-Known Member
The Derale 16759 only handles up to 25 amps for both fans. Both of my fans draw 24.5 amps. I could have two of them I guess, do you think that is too close and could burn up the controllers, there's a spike when they turn on, right?? I just spend a wad of money getting the fancy controller that handles around 60 amps. Does the 16759 have a soft start? Cause that would mean they wouldn't for sure burn up.
I have no IDEA why they made them turn on and off 15 degrees apart. That is a huge gap there.
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70DusterBob
Well-Known Member
Wow, sub freezing all year? Where's that if I can ask...
I checked Stewart Components, and don't mind spending $30-$40 on a good thermostat, but I couldn't find one by them. Maybe I didn't look in the right place but it looked like they only have 9 on the entire site.
I would like to know where you got your 170 thermostat, what year engine you drive. I have searched a couple days for a 170 and can find tons of Chevy and Ford ones, but not Mopar for some reason. They make late model ones, but not the hot rod era.
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70DusterBob
Well-Known Member
As far as I could tell, their catalogs only tell you want is stock, not custom. No 360 ever came with a 170 therm as far as I know. I sent Stant a message from their site to see if they had anything that would fit.
70DusterBob
Well-Known Member
I beg to differ, I have a 4 core aluminum 11/16" tube radiator and two fans that pull 4,000 cfm through it. That should cool it down to 170, I would think.
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It will not. It's a known fact the thermostat only controls the minimum operating temperature, not the maximum. The max temperature is controlled only by "the rest" of the cooling system. The thermostat has nothing to do "with that". That's why I said, study up on it. I wasn't being a smartass, either. It's factual information. Look it up. Read about it.
70DusterBob
Well-Known Member
I am familiar with how thermostats work. Please check my post under your first post for the reason why I want to go with a 170. Basically, I heard that the hottest you want an engine to run is 200 degrees. I don't want to run my engine red line, I don't run my tires low on air, I always check my oil before starting it after time, and I like to check the rad to make sure it is full, or 2" under full, lol... I just don't like to run her that hot because of the heat in Tx. Now when it goes down, I will probably run a 180 therm because the fans will need to turn on at just over 195.
70DusterBob
Well-Known Member
Well, I kinda disagree with you. On start up, the therm is closed so the engine, can, heat up. I understand what you are saying about the therm opening and cooling the engine, but with that much fire power, I will bet you a nickle I can get it down to 170 in the Tx heat. You on? If that is... I can find one. lol
I understand what you "want" but you've been given some bad information regarding engine temperature. An engine does not really over heat until "around" 240*. In fact, some modern electric fans don't even cut on until 220*-230*. An engine runs best on the hotter side, plus, it keeps contaminants out of the oil. Same reason modern cars run 195-220. It's perfectly normal and acceptable.
Having said that, performance engines, especially in tight engine bays can sometimes exhibit what I call the "over the hill" scenario. Where they reach a certain temperature and will not cool back off......but every time without fail, there's something "wrong" with the cooling system somewhere.
Everything I am telling you is correct. You've been fed some bad info somewhere. I "want" my engine to run in the 195-210 range. It's perfectly acceptable. I understand your reasons for the 170 thermostat, I can read. I was just letting you know if your're looking for lower temperatures, that won't do it. Lastly, "if it does" that means your old thermostat was too restrictive, it won't be a function of the lower opening thermostat.
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Disagree all you want. You are incorrect. This has been batted around on this and other forums for years. The only difference the lower rated thermostat make is, it opens earlier. That's all.
70DusterBob
Well-Known Member
If you insist. I will keep the 180, after all it is less work to keep it in there. I'll adjust the controller to 198 or so. But I have to ask... why do they make 160's if the temp won't go down that far?
Run whichever one you want. I'm just throwin facts out there. Once more. Thermostats open at the given temperature at which they are rated. That has nothing to do with "how hot" the system runs, only at "what temperature" the thermostat opens. A 160 thermostat would basically be open pretty much all the time. The heater probably won't function correctly. Instead of bouncing this back at me, you could have done some quick research and confirmed everything I've said is right. Like I said, I don't care what you run, the bad info you're laying down needed to be corrected. Nothing personal. It was simply incorrect.
And temperatures CAN go down "that far" IF the rest of the cooling system is capable of getting there......but the thermostat will not make it happen. That's a function of the rest of the cooling system.
70DusterBob
Well-Known Member
Thanks Rusty
Sho nuff.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
LOL...not sub freezing all year! We do have winter though and I drive my junk. The 160 wouldn’t defrost the windows so I put the 170 in there.
I drive an iron headed 340. Nothing exotic. Since my cooling system WILL keep the engine temp at 170 even on 100 degree days, I use it. My system is pretty efficient, but it could be better.
I also run more compression on pump gas than most guys do, so the cooler engine temps reduce detonation.
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