1964 dodge dart Vibration

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Slantsix64

Slantsix64

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Hey hows it going guys i have a 64 dodge dart push button for some reason i get this vibration from the car when im going 30-35 miles i got the wheels balanced new u joint redid all of the front suspension but the vibration is still there Let me kno what you guys think!! thanks
 
Drive shaft? Do you fell the vibration in the steering wheel or in the seat?
 
Have you checked the motor & tranny mounts ?
 
check your front ""U" joint-- it should be the ball & trunion style-- try the rotating 180 degree 1st-, that joint is very durable-- but still needs maintaining, Lawrence
 
How severe is it? Is it worse or better when accelerating, decelerating, braking or does not change if the throttle is changed? Some more info one when, how, how much it occurs may be helpful.

Is the a manual or auto trannie?

With it in the steering wheel and front floor, I would look to the front suspension first.
- Front wheel threw a weight
- Front brake drum wieght off or warped (should feel worse under braking)
- Front tire out of round
- Front wheel out of round, weld broken on center to rim
- Front wheel bearing with a flat spot in a race
Then go for the front of the drivetrain:
- Front U-joint
- Broken motor or trannie mount
- Broken/missing rear trannie weight (dunno if this car has one)
- Exhaust near the body work and hitting with the torue of acceleration or decceleration
- Engine partial misfire under light cruise load
 
VDART said:
check your front ""U" joint-- it should be the ball & trunion style-- try the rotating 180 degree 1st-, that joint is very durable-- but still needs maintaining, Lawrence
Click to expand...
so i rotated the drive shaft 180 its still the same when the car is jacked up you can see the rear end vibrate because of the drive shaft has a wooble. the car only vibrate when i an accelerating 25-35mph the more people i have in the car the more vibration it gets
 
Here is a possibility the engine has been replaced with a 68 and up engine without installing a bushing in the rear of the crankshaft. 67 and prior torque converters have a smaller snout. These bushings are available from a number of sources such as Torqueflite Patty on ebay. I would exhaust all other possibilities first before pulling your engine or transmission to check for this. Is this a slant six car ?
 
nm9stheham said:
How severe is it? Is it worse or better when accelerating, decelerating, braking or does not change if the throttle is changed? Some more info one when, how, how much it occurs may be helpful.

Is the a manual or auto trannie?

With it in the steering wheel and front floor, I would look to the front suspension first.
- Front wheel threw a weight
- Front brake drum wieght off or warped (should feel worse under braking)
- Front tire out of round
- Front wheel out of round, weld broken on center to rim
- Front wheel bearing with a flat spot in a race
Then go for the front of the drivetrain:
- Front U-joint
- Broken motor or trannie mount
- Broken/missing rear trannie weight (dunno if this car has one)
- Exhaust near the body work and hitting with the torue of acceleration or decceleration
- Engine partial misfire under light cruise load
Click to expand...


wrjjol.jpg


'ell at this point we don' know if it's drivetrain, or wheels / tires......................
 
I have the same issue on my 65 slant 6 automatic. It come and goes I would say. I thought it may be misfires, so I installed electronic ignition, new plugs, wires, cap. Still had issue. New tires, did not fit it either. I am now looking to replace the B&t joint. I wanted or needed to do all these changes anyways. But same slow speed and under load makes it shake like crazy. But not all the time.
 
dalerich said:
I have the same issue on my 65 slant 6 automatic. It come and goes I would say. I thought it may be misfires, so I installed electronic ignition, new plugs, wires, cap. Still had issue. New tires, did not fit it either. I am now looking to replace the B&t joint. I wanted or needed to do all these changes anyways. But same slow speed and under load makes it shake like crazy. But not all the time.
Click to expand...
did you think it might be the drive shaft could it be bent or not balanced
 
Does it only vibrate under power, speed up to 40 then put it in neutral and coast, does it still vibrate.

have you tried rotating the tires ?

have someone follow you while it is vibrating and look for shaking wheels.

You still could have a bent rim even with balances wheels.
 
He already said this:

when the car is jacked up you can see the rear end vibrate because of the drive shaft has a wooble.
Click to expand...

I'm thinking that's a good place to start. Bad U joint, off centered U joint, bent shaft etc.
 
I just hope it is not like my '70 Econoline van; had a vibration; jacked it up, looked, tried everything, never fixed. Oh well, it was a van that had been painted with a roller brush by the previous owner, so not a tragedy!
 
This was a common problem in 64 with all cars with a Ball and Trunion, The service bulletin came out in Sept (?).

It is a resident harmonic found in almost all A bodies, each are unique with Tire size, balance, ect. Big cars didn't have it felt because of the full frame, and the steering column was better mounted to the dash board. You can help it by re greasing or changing B&T, but it will come back, you can also grease up the RAG joint, but it will come back.

The only real way is to convert to a U-joint. I have a 64 Barracuda, stock. and a 65 Valiant with a later 904 U-joint no vibes at all in the 65...... my vibe in the 64 is at 25 under acceleration.

Just my 2 cents.....
 
Slantsix64 said:
so i rotated the drive shaft 180 its still the same when the car is jacked up you can see the rear end vibrate because of the drive shaft has a wooble. the car only vibrate when i an accelerating 25-35mph the more people i have in the car the more vibration it gets
Click to expand...

Slantsix64 said:
did you think it might be the drive shaft could it be bent or not balanced
Click to expand...

Bad Sport said:
He already said this:



I'm thinking that's a good place to start. Bad U joint, off centered U joint, bent shaft etc.
Click to expand...

Very good possibility it's a bent driveshaft
 
I would think you can test the front U-joint for play by simply turning the driveshaft back & forth by hand. You can still buy the ball & trunnion joint, just have to check PN's once in a while on ebay. I have read you can replace the rubber boot in-place with a split VW driveshaft boot. First I heard of the service bulletin, but sounds like they were talking about a very slight vibration since just a slightly stiffer frame and steering support eliminates it.
 
Sounds like the ball and trunnion is bad, replaced mine with a slip yoke, and balanced the drive shaft, made a world differnce
 
dodgegod said:
Sounds like the ball and trunnion is bad, replaced mine with a slip yoke, and balanced the drive shaft, made a world differnce
Click to expand...

If you pull the ball and trunnion apart, take a look at the housing. I had a '63 Valiant with a driveline vibration that was caused by a worn spot on the inside. At 35-40mph, the ball would fall into the worn spot and cause the vibration. Found a new housing and it fixed the problem.
 
I posted that I had a very similar issue. I just returned from a test drive after replacing my drive shaft with a new slip yoke style... everything is smooth again. On the down side, my pocket is $435 lighter, but I hope to never have to worry about that again.
 
dalerich, good luck. Great when subtle problems get fixed. Jeep Wagoneer guys pioneered the sliding yoke replacement since their vehicles had the same B&T joint, and they work them harder.

I have enough new B&T joints on the shelf to last the life of my cars. I bought all on ebay. A few I got for $68 ea. Just need to search PN's.
 
i have had about 25 chryslers total from 1965. 70% have had a small vibration at 40-30 MPH on slowing down. cars / trucks. i just put up with it.
 
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