1964 Plymouth Valiant-3'' Exhaust

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ConValiant64

ConValiant64

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Is anyone running a 3'' exhaust on an early model A body? I'm having difficulty finding any company that even makes 3'' tailpipes for this unique application. Let me know. Thanks.
 
ConValiant64 said:
Is anyone running a 3'' exhaust on an early model A body? I'm having difficulty finding any company that even makes 3'' tailpipes for this unique application. Let me know. Thanks.
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B/RB?

Jake
 
I once calculated the weight difference between 2-1/2" and 3" and it was significant. Generally 400 hp is considered the crossovet point. If you're mostly on the street you wouldn't know the difference. (Unless you're one of those guys who likes to say mine's bigger than yours :) ) There's only so much room between shocks, gas tank and axle. Probably more important to run an X-pipe or H-pipe.
 
KosmicKuda said:
I once calculated the weight difference between 2-1/2" and 3" and it was significant. Generally 400 hp is considered the crossovet point. If you're mostly on the street you wouldn't know the difference. (Unless you're one of those guys who likes to say mine's bigger than yours :) ) There's only so much room between shocks, gas tank and axle. Probably more important to run an X-pipe or H-pipe.
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Makes sense. Thanks.
 
Our work in progress is a 318, running 3" from Hedman Hedders to the rear bumper, and chrome tips-the whole system is welded together. It came that way, I have good clearance all the way, just crawled around putting on some coil overs yesterday. Whoever had it done sliced out the H crossover.
It looks to be done in pieces, welded up to the empty mufflers, then pieced in again over the rear end, to the chrome tips, and sadly they are welded on too.
The headers were worn off on the bottoms so I just upgraded them to the same, except powder coated.
IF, and I am saying I'd like to have it down sized, so IF you decide to do this (it was done to our car by a previous owner, when it was raced to death.) Keep in mind you could be making some muffler shop happy, and maybe not you happy. They really dont sound that great, no crossover really makes it sound rough, the empty cans don't give it anything but a lot of noise-vs-throaty and smooth. Idles rough, and the droning is fairly grating at about 2000 to 2200 rpm's. That means I have to drive under or over the speed limit most of the time.
I'll be posting the particulars in the Garage soon.
If I really had the cash at the time I'd of changed down and not had to change out several things to get them hooked back up-it was the best way to go in my case. Bigger is not really better for a one time "race car" turning daily driver.
Hopefully that helps, I'd post video but I don't know if there is video posting here....can't find it if there is.
Questions? Photos? I'm here to help..........
 
Doubt it will clear between the leaf springs and tank without rubbing , I know 2 1/4 will work perfectly. Early a body's are a tight fit in the exhaust department
 
Christine&Rusty said:
Our work in progress is a 318, running 3" from Hedman Hedders to the rear bumper, and chrome tips-the whole system is welded together. It came that way, I have good clearance all the way, just crawled around putting on some coil overs yesterday. Whoever had it done sliced out the H crossover.
It looks to be done in pieces, welded up to the empty mufflers, then pieced in again over the rear end, to the chrome tips, and sadly they are welded on too.
The headers were worn off on the bottoms so I just upgraded them to the same, except powder coated.
IF, and I am saying I'd like to have it down sized, so IF you decide to do this (it was done to our car by a previous owner, when it was raced to death.) Keep in mind you could be making some muffler shop happy, and maybe not you happy. They really dont sound that great, no crossover really makes it sound rough, the empty cans don't give it anything but a lot of noise-vs-throaty and smooth. Idles rough, and the droning is fairly grating at about 2000 to 2200 rpm's. That means I have to drive under or over the speed limit most of the time.
I'll be posting the particulars in the Garage soon.
If I really had the cash at the time I'd of changed down and not had to change out several things to get them hooked back up-it was the best way to go in my case. Bigger is not really better for a one time "race car" turning daily driver.
Hopefully that helps, I'd post video but I don't know if there is video posting here....can't find it if there is.
Questions? Photos? I'm here to help..........
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. I'm curious what year, make and model you have. FYI-I've got manifolds now and don't plan on installing headers. Realize that sounds confusing (2'' outlet to 3'' exhaust), but if I keep this car, I'm putting in a big block (413, 426). A more high output/cube motor justifies going 3'' and as a bonus, I won't have to redo or respend. One and done, and the versatility should performance be tweaked in the future. BTW-This all started when a B body 3'' Flowmaster kit went up for sale and got my wheels turning. Called Flowmadter's tech department to see what mods would be needed to adapt to my car and the culprit ended up being the tail pipes. I'm not that handy and don't have a garage, so the exhaust shop will definitely be doing all the work. The question is: do I request 3'' or 2.5''. I'm thinking a good shop might just recommend going smaller from the start. It actually has 2'' or 1 7/8 on there now, so either will be an improvement.
 
Have some made. -- Here's 3 inch, on a 68 Dart. -- Possibly wouldn't work on a Early A Body.
Dart - 3 Inch Tail Pipes.JPG
 
ConValiant64 said:
-- Wonder if a way around this entire tail pipe issue is to consider a side dump (like a TA). Less bends and restriction. A foreseeable problem is the convertible factor-am I going to get woffed with fumes? --
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-- I'm not a fan of that, but it's Your car.
 
ConValiant64 said:
Thanks for the info. I'm curious what year, make and model you have. FYI-I've got manifolds now and don't plan on installing headers. Realize that sounds confusing (2'' outlet to 3'' exhaust), but if I keep this car, I'm putting in a big block (413, 426). A more high output/cube motor justifies going 3'' and as a bonus, I won't have to redo or respend. One and done, and the versatility should performance be tweaked in the future. BTW-This all started when a B body 3'' Flowmaster kit went up for sale and got my wheels turning. Called Flowmadter's tech department to see what mods would be needed to adapt to my car and the culprit ended up being the tail pipes. I'm not that handy and don't have a garage, so the exhaust shop will definitely be doing all the work. The question is: do I request 3'' or 2.5''. I'm thinking a good shop might just recommend going smaller from the start. It actually has 2'' or 1 7/8 on there now, so either will be an improvement.
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My full-length TTI kit cost me $500 back in 1999 or 2000. Ima thinkin that's small potatoes compared to a 413/426 project. And I can get a cheap muffler installed for about $50, up here. A pair of those is even smaller potatoes. So then if you never get to the BB, then ...........
 
I put 2.5” off my Clifford headers all the way back on my 64 Valiant.
 
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trouble with 3" is that you have to go under the trans mount on one side (unless you section it) and there is limited room between the tank and the leafs. 2.5 will be plenty even with a big block. So 3" less ground clearance kinda sucks. Id really consider a boom tube out the side, they are duals that come out short of the rear wheel at a 45. They bypass the whole axle and the T/A had similar exits so I dont think they would be a fume issue even with a 'vert. Its just a small frame for such large pipes with no real benefit with your current or future motor unless your going 426/440/451.
 
pishta said:
trouble with 3" is that you have to go under the trans mount on one side (unless you section it) and there is limited room between the tank and the leafs. 2.5 will be plenty even with a big block. So 3" less ground clearance kinda sucks. Id really consider a boom tube out the side, they are duals that come out short of the rear wheel at a 45. They bypass the whole axle and the T/A had similar exits so I dont think they would be a fume issue even with a 'vert. Its just a small frame for such large pipes with no real benefit with your current or future motor unless your going 426/440/451.
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Thanks all. I'll consider all advice when making this decision. FYI-At 11:00 a.m. today EST on the Velocity channel (870), the guys of Car Fix are doing a front drum to disc brake conversion and front end work on a 1965 Barracuda. Rare Mopar show that isn't Graveyard Carz. Even rarer that it's about an A body.
 
its been commented on here already, its a rerun but still a great reference. I cringed when he took the torsion bars out with vice grips. Thats a no-no.
 
Doing something similar to the factory hi-po system with 2 1/4" downpipes into a 3" single would be a great street system for a 318.
 
ConValiant64 said:
Thanks for the info. I'm curious what year, make and model you have. FYI-I've got manifolds now and don't plan on installing headers. Realize that sounds confusing (2'' outlet to 3'' exhaust), but if I keep this car, I'm putting in a big block (413, 426). A more high output/cube motor justifies going 3'' and as a bonus, I won't have to redo or respend. One and done, and the versatility should performance be tweaked in the future. BTW-This all started when a B body 3'' Flowmaster kit went up for sale and got my wheels turning. Called Flowmaster's tech department to see what mods would be needed to adapt to my car and the culprit ended up being the tail pipes. I'm not that handy and don't have a garage, so the exhaust shop will definitely be doing all the work. The question is: do I request 3'' or 2.5''. I'm thinking a good shop might just recommend going smaller from the start. It actually has 2'' or 1 7/8 on there now, so either will be an improvement.
Click to expand...

Does not sound confusing at all, you planned it ahead, can cure any problems long before you do the trans plant. And the way it sounds, you will more than likely keep the car.
What happened was I was chasing a '68 Cuda and ended up taking a left, dead end road, and a clean but well used '75 Dodge Dart appeared. Really rough mechanically, raced to death, no history with the car......wife loved it, she got my attention when I was under the hood-so many tell tale sign's of this could be her, our last ride. So, preview of the garage shot is: 1975 Dodge Dart Sport, 318 Cu In block, Edelbrock Performer heads, intake, had a Holley 650 double-gonna be a doorstop-pumper at that time, flat cam and well used unknowns inside. We cashed the lady out that owned it, drove it 30 miles home and parked it to try and dial it in, which led me to start taking inventory. Hedman hedders were coupled up to same size collector/exhaust, H crossover had been cut out, quasi mufflers/empty "Customized" FlowMaster cans, over the rear end and ot to the chrome tips. Few pic's I tried to get-we don't have a garage, barn, or shop, we have a driveway, and some shade trees.
The pic's are not perfect, but there fresh ;) .
Remember, we bought it basically this way, it is a work in progress, my wife loves iy, you know how that goes, I love her and it's our "Baby". And it's not a Duster....
It rub's on the drivers side, at the leaf spring just a bit-to be corrected. Thank you for helping me find the kink in the fuel line at the tank, nobody has ever caught it!
Hope this helps

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Christine&Rusty said:
Does not sound confusing at all, you planned it ahead, can cure any problems long before you do the trans plant. And the way it sounds, you will more than likely keep the car.
What happened was I was chasing a '68 Cuda and ended up taking a left, dead end road, and a clean but well used '75 Dodge Dart appeared. Really rough mechanically, raced to death, no history with the car......wife loved it, she got my attention when I was under the hood-so many tell tale sign's of this could be her, our last ride. So, preview of the garage shot is: 1975 Dodge Dart Sport, 318 Cu In block, Edelbrock Performer heads, intake, had a Holley 650 double-gonna be a doorstop-pumper at that time, flat cam and well used unknowns inside. We cashed the lady out that owned it, drove it 30 miles home and parked it to try and dial it in, which led me to start taking inventory. Hedman hedders were coupled up to same size collector/exhaust, H crossover had been cut out, quasi mufflers/empty "Customized" FlowMaster cans, over the rear end and ot to the chrome tips. Few pic's I tried to get-we don't have a garage, barn, or shop, we have a driveway, and some shade trees.
The pic's are not perfect, but there fresh ;) .
Remember, we bought it basically this way, it is a work in progress, my wife loves iy, you know how that goes, I love her and it's our "Baby". And it's not a Duster....
It rub's on the drivers side, at the leaf spring just a bit-to be corrected. Thank you for helping me find the kink in the fuel line at the tank, nobody has ever caught it!
Hope this helps

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Looks good! Thanks for the pics. In the process of changing out my 7.25 for an 8 3/4 with Sure Grip and 3.23s. Exhaust will be next project.
 
No problem, and hope the rear end swap goes easy, they can be a bear sometimes. Will keep track and see how it goes for ya..Luck and no stripped gears !!!
 
Christine&Rusty said:
No problem, and hope the rear end swap goes easy, they can be a bear sometimes. Will keep track and see how it goes for ya..Luck and no stripped gears !!!
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Amen! Taking it in phases. Next step: finding 10 x 1 3/4'' brake backing plates. Tougher than you'd think. Thanks again.
 
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