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1964 Valiant "Get Runnin & Drivin"
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
- Start date
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JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Them things at 2:49 and 4:17 musta been UFO's then!
I'd like to live out in the sticks like that. Where I live used to be far enough out, but not anymore. RRR.....that things sounds good, and has some jump to it!
That's the secondary road we live on. It's not really paved. It's what they call triple coat. Like old county roads way back when. It actually lasts a long time. They were just now applying it to the dirt road when we moved out here in 2002, so it's held up fairly well, although it is due to be surfaced again. The primary roads, like highway 49 for instance are top notch.
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There are back roads here in Tx and back home n Mo. that make that road look mighty good! Anyway, I enjoyed the video and seeing ole RRR enjoying the fruits of his labor!
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Hell, the W end of the "loop" I grew up on in N Idaho was not only not paved, you could not even call it "gravel" in places. You've maybe heard of "washboard?" One year we had "odd" snow conditions and an early melt, so that year we had "mud" vacation from school instead of "snow days."
At some point in my life they actually paved it "from town" out to the "cemetary road" turn off, but that still left a bit between us and the "good road" but the rest of the thing W "up the hill" was dirt, so cars "boiling past" would raise huge dust clowds
At some point in my life they actually paved it "from town" out to the "cemetary road" turn off, but that still left a bit between us and the "good road" but the rest of the thing W "up the hill" was dirt, so cars "boiling past" would raise huge dust clowds
RRR, can you post a couple of closeup photos of the throttle cable and return spring gizmo showing in the video for post #1202? I think I need to do something similar on my setup.
Do you know if the base plate can be inverted if needed, so it works from the other direction?
Do you know if the base plate can be inverted if needed, so it works from the other direction?
No. This particular adapter plate is directional. "The barrels" kinda widen up in the rear sorta like secondaries. While the bolt pattern would allow it, I wouldn't do it. And yeah, I'll get you a picture or two in a bit.
A couple of words of note on the TTI exhaust system. First, of course as you'd expect, the quality is really good. Had I gotten the whole kit, I wouldda had everything I needed in one spot. I didn't do it that way because I had to buy a piece at a time. Mancini acted like they wouldn't sell me anymore after I got the head pipe from them. Then they told me TTI wouldn't sell it directly to me.....they were wanting me to order the whole shebang.
So I called TTI and talked with Alena. She was super cool and did say that while they were not set up for credit card payments, she could send a Paypal invoice for whatever I needed so we did that.
After the initial fit, the head pipe does contact the steering box. Barely. Two 3/4" fender washers raised the engine right up enough to clear it. I also had to cut about the last 5" or so off the muffler side of the intermediate pipe. Lastly, the tail pipe hanger in the rear utilizes a factory hole in the inside of the frame rail. Because this is a Valiant, with no cutout in the rear valance, that hole is too high, so I got the mig welder out, cleaned the inside of the frame rail off in that area and simply spot welded the tail pipe hanger to the frame rail. The exhaust is really nice and hits nothing now. It's well worth the money if you're thinkin about it. I used the correct part number Dynomax Ultra welded muffler TTI recommends. It has ZERO drone and gets nice and raspy when you romp on it. At high RPM it sounds exotic, like a heated up Jaguar or somethin similar. lol Like a really hot slant six is more like it. lol
So I called TTI and talked with Alena. She was super cool and did say that while they were not set up for credit card payments, she could send a Paypal invoice for whatever I needed so we did that.
After the initial fit, the head pipe does contact the steering box. Barely. Two 3/4" fender washers raised the engine right up enough to clear it. I also had to cut about the last 5" or so off the muffler side of the intermediate pipe. Lastly, the tail pipe hanger in the rear utilizes a factory hole in the inside of the frame rail. Because this is a Valiant, with no cutout in the rear valance, that hole is too high, so I got the mig welder out, cleaned the inside of the frame rail off in that area and simply spot welded the tail pipe hanger to the frame rail. The exhaust is really nice and hits nothing now. It's well worth the money if you're thinkin about it. I used the correct part number Dynomax Ultra welded muffler TTI recommends. It has ZERO drone and gets nice and raspy when you romp on it. At high RPM it sounds exotic, like a heated up Jaguar or somethin similar. lol Like a really hot slant six is more like it. lol
Always fun going along for the first drive. Whether you are 16 or 60, always a good time.
She pulls nice, thanks for taking us along. Good camera operator too.
Thumbs Up !
Thanks. Kitty always does a great job. We've been driving Vixen about as much as we always have now.....a lot. So far, she's done perfect. It's an amazing difference. The 170 was turning pretty hard at 60, the 225 just wants more. The acceleration is really good from 50-80. Had it up to about 90 so far. Really happy with it so far. Been accused of swapping to a V8 now more then a few times when people hear the new exhaust note. Stopped at the store today to do a warranty alternator swap and while I was under the hood, several of my old customers came by and really flipped out it was still a slant six. I have pretty much all of the disc bake conversion now, so I'll start getting the new parts for that swap together. Caliper kits, new rotors, wheel bearings, hoses and whatnot. It kinda needs disc brakes now.
Tremendous job. Can't wait to see the conversion to disk. Just doing the front, or front and rear?
Rear? Me? Hardly. LOL Just the front. I found a good deal tonight on 2 caliper kits complete with new bleeder screws for 20 bucks so I jumped on um. Gotta find a deal on rotors next.
What is the cfm on the new 4 barrel carb?
And is that a 225 cu in or 170 now ?
Asking for a friend . . .
☆
And is that a 225 cu in or 170 now ?
Asking for a friend . . .
☆
I'm sure I've read it earlier in the thread but....
How about a recap on the new drive train package?
Compression, cam, carb, gear...that sort of thing.
Curious if you know how much it weighs.
I'd off hand guess 2500-2750.
How about a recap on the new drive train package?
Compression, cam, carb, gear...that sort of thing.
Curious if you know how much it weighs.
I'd off hand guess 2500-2750.
Yeah, she's pretty light alright. I'd guess no more than 2700 flat and that's probably just like it sits with the stock bumper jack, my aluminum floor jack, spare, tarp, car cover and full interior.
The whole drive train did not get replaced, just the engine. I was going to put the heavier duty A230 3 speed in it, but the transmission tunnel is not wide enough. It doesn't lack much. A ball peen hammer and 2x4 in the right place would take care of it, but, the larger bellhousing posed a few more hurdles, plus the slip yoke drive shaft needs to be cut 2.5" and that would have put me a few weeks out, so, I put the A903 and ball and tunnion drive shaft back in it and we are in the wind. Factory 3.55 gears and still 13" tires.
Specs on the motor. Stock 68 short block. Head milled .155". Compression is right on top of 10:1. Dynamic is 7.9. Stock valves sizes, no port work. 924-16 Comp valve sprAngs.
Cam is symmetrical. .465 250 @ .050 ground on a 108 LSA and installed at 104. I took the new oil pump out of the 170 and put that in it. It also has the Mopar Performance high pressure spring in it. I swapped on an early A body oil pan when I realized the A100 van pan does not fit the early A chassis.
It has the Freddie modified exhaust mannyfold that he ported and opened the outlet up to 2.5". Offy intake and QFT 450 V/C carburetor. TTI exhaust with a Dynomax Ultra Flow muffler.
I think that's all.
Also, I am experiencing some spark knock issues. No surprises there. I figured it'd be on the ragged edge. I consider 15* BTDC to be the absolute minimum to run it on and it rattles lightly when lugging it. It likes 18-20 a LOT more, but it rattles pretty good there.
My plans are to try and tune it out, rather than run it on premium. I tight lashed the valves this afternoon. Talked with Ken at Oregon Cams and he said that it wouldn't hurt a thing so I went from .020/.020 to .008/.010. That will increase the overlap and bring cylinder pressure down some. I've not driven it since I did that, but it did make the idle slightly rougher, since that makes the engine "think" the cam is a little bigger.
I also did not block off the exhaust manifold heat. That could make a big difference. I completely removed the heat riser valve in the exhaust manifold and just used the standard metal gasket,so the bottom of the intake has exhaust heat all the time. I have a block off plate I made that I will put on. All that'll cost me is a little more warm up time. Big whoop. I've actually seen where doing that makes ice form on the intake, so I know that will cool it off some.
I also have a 160* high flow thermostat on the way. Anything that can cool it off more will also help. I plan on going from the Autolite 66 (same heat range as the RN14YC) to something colder. That will help. Also, this carburetor has adjustments out the wazoo. It has adjustable air bleeds I can mess around with. I also found something I forgot I had tonight. A five blade non-symmetrical solid fan offset just like the Mopar viscous fan that moves so much air. I never knew they made one....and really didn't know I had it.....but there it is layin in the shop. lol I may can come up with a shroud of some sort too. It's not running hot at all, but anything I can do to cool it off more will help in preventing detonation.
So there are lots of things I can do to combat it. We'll see what happens. As far as I'm concerned, this is a good problem to have, because it means there's some compression there and that means power potential. I think between some or all of that, I'll get it licked.
450 and it's a 225. See complete specs above.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
A cold air intake to the carb will also help.
Yup. I'm aleady schemin. LOL
RRR that .155ths cut on the head was quite a bit, Lol . . Pushing the Envelope.
Did an .080ths cut on a marine Ford 2.3 Overhead Cam Head. That was just right for a custom boat we were building.
Did an .080ths cut on a marine Ford 2.3 Overhead Cam Head. That was just right for a custom boat we were building.
You crack me up, RRR! Those "knockers" hanging from your mirror are a riot!!! Your wife is a great sport!
Yeah well....like I said, the original plan was .100 but the accident he had required it to be cleaned up. I kinda had to utilize it at that point.
Really startin to zero in on the tune now.
Crapped if I know. I idle it up enough it stays running without issue when it's warmed up. Ain't had a tach on it.
Slantsix64
Well-Known Member
What kind of muffler do you got sounds good!
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