Reproduction bound paper 1965 Plymouth Service Manuals are available. I use mine all the time to look at all the things I could fix if I had tools/a garage/ any skills at all
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1965 Barracuda Build
- Thread starter GoneShawn
- Start date
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.Heres something, now sure exacly seems to mention a capability to this newer design?
I think this is what I had seen and the term adjustable torsion bars jumo into my empty head. lol
They mention clock indexing and thank you for the advise, I did go over to grab a service manual online, ..its very nice
Note: PST's High Performance torsion bars are intended for both stock and lowered vehicles. With our new indexing, you can achieve either a sleek, lowered pro-touring stance or stock ride height.
I think this is what I had seen and the term adjustable torsion bars jumo into my empty head. lol
They mention clock indexing and thank you for the advise, I did go over to grab a service manual online, ..its very nice
Note: PST's High Performance torsion bars are intended for both stock and lowered vehicles. With our new indexing, you can achieve either a sleek, lowered pro-touring stance or stock ride height.
That's all I used and I find first printed editions. Less margin for error. But you know, these younger guys want it all digital. Plus it's NOW and it's FREE. So that'll give him something until and if he decides to go printed.Reproduction bound paper 1965 Plymouth Service Manuals are available. I use mine all the time to look at all the things I could fix if I had tools/a garage/ any skills at all
No offense, but I ain't even gonna try to read that. Post a link. There are some bars that aren't clocked right. That might be them. I don't remember. I'd get bars from @BergmanAutoCraft. Peter Bergman is very honest and helpful. You'll get the right stuff. Plus, you'll be helping a member with his small business.
Here's a link.and Ill check out Bergman. Thank you https://www.kanter.com/products/tor...0gsx8AsVD0mC2l19nwqD9ItGRJGgrr8AvNG_xhNEEiIMD
I'm honestly unsure which ones they were. The thing is, I THINK they were clocked for lowered cars, I honestly cannot remember. I remember some guys got them and didn't like them. Heck, I might be imagining it. @72bluNblu can fill us in. He'll know. Peter Bergman will get you set either way.
if memory serves they were *early* PST bars, but it was mainly an issue trying to get a car much lower than most run.
should pretty much be in the clear for anything produced nowadays.
bergman and firmfeel are both great resources for suspension parts.
i'll say this: decide what you want in terms of ride, performance and suspension tuning now because you need to build it as a system. throwing a bunch of parts together, no matter how kick *** or high dollar they are usually winds up with something sub-optimal or you wind up fighting it and throwing more money around and burning loads of time trying to tune parts that don't compliment each other.
i'll say this: decide what you want in terms of ride, performance and suspension tuning now because you need to build it as a system. throwing a bunch of parts together, no matter how kick *** or high dollar they are usually winds up with something sub-optimal or you wind up fighting it and throwing more money around and burning loads of time trying to tune parts that don't compliment each other.
The early PST bars that were 1.03 were zero indexed. They had complaints because people couldn’t get the cars to stock ride height even with the adjusters maxed out, you had to lower the car.
I believe that the 20° offset is what they’ve been selling since they re-clocked them after that initial run, I don’t think that’s changed since Kanter bought out PST.
That should be fine as far as the ride height range goes for the adjusters. The factory torsion bars have a 30° hex offset but are literally half the wheel rate of the 1.03’s.
Meanwhile, the 1.12” bars I run have a 7° hex offset, and typically anything larger than that are 0.
I believe that the 20° offset is what they’ve been selling since they re-clocked them after that initial run, I don’t think that’s changed since Kanter bought out PST.
That should be fine as far as the ride height range goes for the adjusters. The factory torsion bars have a 30° hex offset but are literally half the wheel rate of the 1.03’s.
Meanwhile, the 1.12” bars I run have a 7° hex offset, and typically anything larger than that are 0.
while i don't have any strong feelings about running a 9" over a 8.75, i will say that the rear end plays a critical role in rim and tire width.
choose carefully here with an intended goal in mind because going back and moving spring perches for spring relocation or clearance and finding/figuring out custom rims can get expensive quickly.
choose carefully here with an intended goal in mind because going back and moving spring perches for spring relocation or clearance and finding/figuring out custom rims can get expensive quickly.
"These packages all come equipped with bearings, studs, and hardware for a direct bolt-in upgrade."
There words not mine. Lol.
They ask what year and what car. Supposedly custom made to fit. For $900
All new, made here in USA.
Im surprised if what Im seeing what I think Im seeing.
Shawn , incase no one else mentioned. Adjust the T bars with the front wheels jacked off the ground and spray lube the adjuster bolt . Make sure it isn't seized and twist off,
Thanks Al....I appreciate everything, you guys really are great. Thank you again
i don't doubt any of that, my point was that if you're going to run a wheel and tire combo that is significantly larger than stock you'll need to think critically about the rear end width. for instance some aftermarket brakes can push the wheel mounting surface out 1.5" per side from what a typical mopar axle would be.
if you plan on a mini tub or offset springs, the perches would need to be moved to accommodate as well.
a "stock" direct bolt in is fine for stock, or near stock wheel and tire combos.
as an example, i absolutely love keystone classics. however if i wanted to run them on my car i would need a narrower rear end and likely a spring offset kit (which would entail moving the perches) if i wanted to keep them under the body work and not have the *** end jacked way up in the air to clear them.
I think that would be a smart move. The 9" is arguably stronger than the 8 3/4 and it's definitely cheaper to build. I have one completed and ready to go under my 64 Valiant.
You said jacked.
For the rear end the width is critical for what wheels you want to run. If you're buying a rear end, there's no chance I'd buy one with the standard A-body spring perch location. A 1/2" offset kit from DoctorDiff or @BergmanAutoCraft would be the way to go, you maximize the tire width without any changes to the wheel tubs.
The 3" spring relocation only makes sense if you're doing a mini-tub as well, without the mini-tub the 1/2" offset gets you just as much room.
Not saying the 9" is a bad deal at all, just know what your plan for wheels is before you place your order.
The 3" spring relocation only makes sense if you're doing a mini-tub as well, without the mini-tub the 1/2" offset gets you just as much room.
Not saying the 9" is a bad deal at all, just know what your plan for wheels is before you place your order.
You guys are ahead of as usual.
I have been contemplating going with centerline convo pro wheels .
The 10" wheels look alot more in line with the look I want. Im not doing tubs. Open to spring offset but the backset is already determined on the centerline. (Rather not order custom wheels)
10" wheels has 5" backset. (My thought are thats not happening) I dont mind rolling the inside of quarter but just cant imagine that will make it across the board)
8"wheel has a 4.5.backset. I see alot of people using 4.25 backseat from what I can tell that seems close?
And the front I like the 7" in
I do not know weather they will fit or not but the back seems within reason on the factory rear end. But as you say, now the time to make there's determinations.
Offset of the transmission carrier and rear should coordinate as well.
Lots of variables, not sure a 4.5" backseat will work with that rear end and willwood disc's?
You can see the variantation between the 3 wheel sizes
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275/60-15 on a 15 x 8 with 4.5 back space with the springs moved in 5/8" will clear
255/60-15 on a 15 x 7 with 4.25 back space will clear
both of these are at or near stock ride height, lower you risk contacting the outer well & wheel lip because the 1/4 is tapered as it goes up. that's also with stock drums, discs will push out the wheel mounting surface a good bit.
235 on a 15 x 7 w/ 4.25 BS is probably a safe bet
up front, if you're running more than about 4.5" of back space you start to get close to the A arm/upper ball joint with 15's and a limiting factor is the front edge of the fender contacting thru the range. especially when lowered.
255/60-15 on a 15 x 7 with 4.25 back space will clear
both of these are at or near stock ride height, lower you risk contacting the outer well & wheel lip because the 1/4 is tapered as it goes up. that's also with stock drums, discs will push out the wheel mounting surface a good bit.
235 on a 15 x 7 w/ 4.25 BS is probably a safe bet
up front, if you're running more than about 4.5" of back space you start to get close to the A arm/upper ball joint with 15's and a limiting factor is the front edge of the fender contacting thru the range. especially when lowered.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
it looks like nobody's mentioned a ford exploder 8.8 axle? with the 'long' side of the case cut down by 2 7/8'' a second 'short' side axle shaft can be fitted. this gives you an A body 8 3/4 width. these axles come with lsd, 31 spline axle shafts, disc brakes and ford/mopar 4 1/2 x 5 wheel pcd. they are very cheap compared to the 9'' you suggested and that still needs a 3rd member. it's a relatively common swap that's been documented on here many times (on my 68 valiant signet for example) so the research is done for you.
neil.
neil.
Thank you Junkyardhero,
this in super helpful for alot of people, including myself
as is the Ford explorer info MrGasser!
thanks again for the input
Now back to the nuts and bolts... A 275/60/15 on the back would be sensational considering the restraints on the little car. I have no issue carving up the quater panel wheelhouse, Just dont car to tangle with the interior. but the spring relocation is cleaver and doable too.
Now I have to ask a question does a 275/60/15 fit on a 10" wheel properly?
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mygasser
Well-Known Member
now there's fitting a 275/60/15 under there and there's fitting that tyre on a 10" rim under there. that's a whole different ball game. from what i've done/seen an 8" or 8 1/2" at most with the correct backspace will be your lot width wise. my 68 valiant i had an 8" rim with a 295/50/15 under the arch but i had rolled the arch lip more than just the lip, lol. the 1/4 panel ended up pushed out about 1 1/2" giving me the room for that wide a tyre.
neil.
neil.
Just spoke to Moser.
Good deal. Ending soon.
time to buy
I will order tomorrow. Spoke with SST regaurding the 5 speed...I had a few questions, there were good and explained a few things. I hate cutting the torsion crossmember, but if you want an omlet, you got to crack a few eggs. Im over it already.
The Tkx 5 speed has a centerline pinion. No offset. As Im still in the newbie stage it sounds like the drive train offset is built into the A body mopar something like 1-3/8" Moser Is well aware of this and will accomidate that A body offset. So long as I ask for it.
I see a few transmission crossmember Hoops for later A body, but havent seen on for a 65. Anyone know where to get one?
this would help with beefing up the cutting of the crossmember.
Back to offsets In simplest terms we can refer to it as a factory A body offset. Which Moser is very familiar with.
Fords 3rd member has it own stardarized offest in the carrier itself . I belive the offset of a ford 3rd member is rought 15/16" to the passanger.
Ill go with 31 axles (most common)
I spoke with Wilwood, they said, the rear disc is .18' at the mounting flange. I looked up Factory rear drum, seems to vary but seems around .25". Wiwood claims this does not move the wheel out, if anything it would move the wheel inward (.25-.18) .07" This should be looked at again,Im not sure of this, and would look to confirm, but the disc replaces the drum wheel goes on after.
Every other dimension is with that in place. Axle location does not move from the factory location, wheel does not move inward or outward any measuable amount aside from the above equation, in this scenario.
So in summary the cart may go before the horse as this is about $700 off. Got to take the deal.
Any thoughts?
Good deal. Ending soon.
time to buy
I will order tomorrow. Spoke with SST regaurding the 5 speed...I had a few questions, there were good and explained a few things. I hate cutting the torsion crossmember, but if you want an omlet, you got to crack a few eggs. Im over it already.
The Tkx 5 speed has a centerline pinion. No offset. As Im still in the newbie stage it sounds like the drive train offset is built into the A body mopar something like 1-3/8" Moser Is well aware of this and will accomidate that A body offset. So long as I ask for it.
I see a few transmission crossmember Hoops for later A body, but havent seen on for a 65. Anyone know where to get one?
this would help with beefing up the cutting of the crossmember.
Back to offsets In simplest terms we can refer to it as a factory A body offset. Which Moser is very familiar with.
Fords 3rd member has it own stardarized offest in the carrier itself . I belive the offset of a ford 3rd member is rought 15/16" to the passanger.
Ill go with 31 axles (most common)
I spoke with Wilwood, they said, the rear disc is .18' at the mounting flange. I looked up Factory rear drum, seems to vary but seems around .25". Wiwood claims this does not move the wheel out, if anything it would move the wheel inward (.25-.18) .07" This should be looked at again,Im not sure of this, and would look to confirm, but the disc replaces the drum wheel goes on after.
Every other dimension is with that in place. Axle location does not move from the factory location, wheel does not move inward or outward any measuable amount aside from the above equation, in this scenario.
So in summary the cart may go before the horse as this is about $700 off. Got to take the deal.
Any thoughts?
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