1966 dart convertible

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Rocky_JS said:
ibm card looks like this
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I just looked and you are right. Say's build card but it saays it comes deciphered. I ordered that to get the fender tag, but, I found that today. Thanks for the info and the link to the virtual museum. Loooks like a lot af really good info. Even has the quarterly stock report!!!
Thanks again Rocky
 
They do not do good decoding and sometimes it is inaccurate. However it is worth it for what you do get from them like selling dealer code, name, and location. Just saying...
It took me a couple days to figure out the ibm card and I'd imagine a couple hours to do a basic. So for 45 what you get is a good deal for their time. It is a great service if you have a 67 and earlier car.
 
this is a modified readable copy of the card I made with excel and use it to decode with. This one is deciphered from the one I first posted which will be like the one you receive. I had to do a LOT of digging to find the information that is on the card to make this one. The one you will get will likely be unreadable but all that really matters is the ticked boxes to decode it.


360 Decor Group
367 Formula S Pkg. Barracuda
Eng 32 273-4bbl Engine
Trans 393 4-Speed Manual Transmission
Axle 404 3.23:1 Final Gear Ratio
408 Sure Grip
Tires 28 D70X14 Red Streak
479 Front Disc Brakes
509 Glove Box Lock
Glass 521 Tinted Glass - All
537 Manual Outside/ Right Mirror
577 Tachometer
579 Undercoating & Hood Pad
628 Fast Ratio Man Steering
691 Expedite Sold Car
 

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pyrojim said:
Is this the right setup for a manual steering????
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it's similar to the one I have on my manual unit. but I have seen another coupler that has a through pin that (Offset hole.when it seated correctly goes in the groove that's in the steering box's shaft.) and then there's the one with a bolt(centered hole) in it that goes straight down into the groove.The main difference is the shaft length between manual and power. I'll see if I can find a picture of the manual setup of shaft and coupler. My power steering has the bolt kind of coupler and shorter shaft. oh and there's a bearing/bushing cover that fits over the shaft and secures itself on the steering column tube. you have to take out the shaft from the column to get it on. there is also a bearing that was posted on here that will give the steering column major support. (and stop hot engine air and smell traveling up the column) it's called a 1" Insert Bearing, ER16, ER-16 and is supposed to work well.the Bearing/bushing cover cost somewhere in the neighborhood of 30.00 and is rubber and a metal/ceramic piece. correct for restorations.
but the bearing looks to be a cheaper and sturdier fix!@ about 4 to 8 bucks on ebay
View attachment !!!!!shaft.jpg

BTW the piece on the top of the picture is the convertible top hold down piece and the stainless trim goes over that to hide the ugly metal.
of in this general area.

View attachment !!!Well and trim.jpg
 
LOL. You crack me up Kurt. I think it is correct. It was on the manual box when I picked it up but, it does seem kind of wiggly. Pulled the steering wheel off last night, two small cracks where the center hub meets the spokes. The column is in great shape, but I want to repaint, clean the harness,etc. One thing I did notice is, I'll call it the rag joint (even though I known thats a GM term), travels up and down. Like the pins aren't locked into the shoes anymore. Anyway, I"ve been printing the service manual one section at a time so the boss doesn't realize how much paper I'm going through, and haven't gotten to "steering" yet.
That will have to wait, the new steering box from firm feel got here for the 71 dart and I'm going to put that in tonight. I can't wait to get that one on the road.
Thanks again
 
pyrojim said:
LOL. You crack me up Kurt. I think it is correct. It was on the manual box when I picked it up but, it does seem kind of wiggly. Pulled the steering wheel off last night, two small cracks where the center hub meets the spokes. The column is in great shape, but I want to repaint, clean the harness,etc. One thing I did notice is, I'll call it the rag joint (even though I known thats a GM term), travels up and down. Like the pins aren't locked into the shoes anymore. Anyway, I"ve been printing the service manual one section at a time so the boss doesn't realize how much paper I'm going through, and haven't gotten to "steering" yet.
That will have to wait, the new steering box from firm feel got here for the 71 dart and I'm going to put that in tonight. I can't wait to get that one on the road.
Thanks again
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glad to crack ya up! gotta have a few laughs in life!
ok here goes
the bottom part that goes onto the gearbox IS supposed to slide up and down, that's because the car does flex a little when your driving it.I(the coupler)t takes up the difference in frame to firewall movement. (itty bitty bit on a new car) ohh and road vibration too! you DO have to check for side to side movement in that joint since you can get major play in there. hmmm how to explain it.
The shaft has a cross pin (pretend it he middle part of an H. On the uprights there are square (ish) metal pieces (with a hole that wears outand the pin does too!) that fits over the pin in the cross shaft. that slides into the coupler for your left/right steering. if the coupler,cross shaft pin or the holes is worn you get major steering play with a just a little wear , the new repair kits out there work but are not exactly correct and you will want to save your old top metal cover(fit a lot better)


as for the steering wheel P7 epoxy putty works great. there are a few (mine included) steering wheel repairs on here to look for. hexk they even have a youtube or 2 of them. I'd undercut the cracks and angle drill small holes into the sides of the crack to jam the epoxy into to lock it in. then of course sand, sand and more sand to get the right shape. use adhesion promoter to grab onto the plastic wheel and then shoot epoxy sealer to get a tight bond, hi-build and color/clear (of course sand,sand and sand some more) in between hi build coats and color just like a car body.
 
running out of pieces, not too many left. The chrome went to Bills special ts. OUCH!!! I'm sure it will be beautiful when it's finished. I think these are placed properly, is there a piece that goes between them????
 

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Other wise, it's just these stragglers and it's complete. Yesterday, I got the carpet, console carpet, well liner and boot from legendary, and, a new top console. Yesterday was an expensive day!!!
 

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pyrojim said:
Other wise, it's just these stragglers and it's complete. Yesterday, I got the carpet, console carpet, well liner and boot from legendary, and, a new top console. Yesterday was an expensive day!!!
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Easy answer
top pieces are the corner pieces that go on the top to help hold it down and the header deal covers it. they look to be in EXCELLENT shape. mine were rusted away and I had to make new ones.
bottom left 2 pieces go into the well liner sides, (they are NOT convertible header top corners, sorry my bad! ) if you look right above the wheel well in the convertible top well area you will see 3 holes that it screws to. it goes Car, the well liner and then the pieces one per side.

last one looks to be an alternator bracket.
View attachment !!!!misc pieces1.jpg

oops didn't see the other parts very top piece is the header channel that rusts out real easy. , you see the corner pieces fit on the corners of the header seal in the convertible top and that long curved C shaped piece goes in between them



here is where those NOT convertible top header pieces go. you should find 3 screw holes in that area.
View attachment !!!!well mounting area.jpg
this is the convertible top corner pieces, not the "NOT" ones!
I had to make a pattern from the other car to get mine. I am making my header channel from ABS since it's rusted away to nothing but holes interspersed with some metal in a few places. it's good enough to maybe get a pattern and then I can duplicate it.
View attachment 0803121713a.jpg


cutting pattern
View attachment 0803121714a.jpg


shaping pattern and if you look you can see where the long curved piece fits in between the 2 corners
View attachment !!!!!top header seal location.jpg

it goes on the front header panel for the convertible top. see shaping pattern pic
View attachment !!!top header corners.jpg


View attachment !!!!!mystery piece.jpg

View attachment !!!!with holes.jpg

no holes it goes here

View attachment DSCF3047.jpg

hope I have it covered for ya! have a great day!
 
pyrojim said:
running out of pieces, not too many left. The chrome went to Bills special ts. OUCH!!! I'm sure it will be beautiful when it's finished. I think these are placed properly, is there a piece that goes between them????
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here is where your (or my NOT pieces go)

View attachment !!!3holes.jpg

BTW you have the pieces taped on upside down! the sides point up to help hide the screws (and center them) so that you know where to put in the screws for the stainless that goes on top of it.

the red square is from another GREAT members car here showing ME how to do it right and where those NOT pieces go). as you can see his is outside hold down for the well/top is flat part down to the body also. So I'm learning too!:cheers: .. I figure if you stop learning, your dead (or a politician).
View attachment well liner detail.jpg


View attachment !!!!flat to bottom.jpg
 
pyrojim said:
running out of pieces, not too many left. The chrome went to Bills special ts. OUCH!!! I'm sure it will be beautiful when it's finished. I think these are placed properly, is there a piece that goes between them????
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yep these pieces

View attachment 1215121405a.jpg

and they are pot metal and usually in worse shape than this (which is bad!) if you have good ones be thankful. the transition pieces are usually bad also
which are these for a GT car. 270's and Valiants are different
View attachment 1714616136
 

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Thanks Kurt.
Flipping those over makes more sense to me now!!! Actually, the only thing on this car that was in REALLY bad shape are the door sills. Rotted out pretty good. The transition pieces are good. Aside from car builder you seem to be computer savvy, Are my pics too large? is that why I can only load one per post???
Body/paint guy came by today, That should start pretty soon, I hope.
Thanks again
 

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pyrojim said:
Thanks Kurt.
Flipping those over makes more sense to me now!!! Actually, the only thing on this car that was in REALLY bad shape are the door sills. Rotted out pretty good. The transition pieces are good. Aside from car builder you seem to be computer savvy, Are my pics too large? is that why I can only load one per post???
Body/paint guy came by today, That should start pretty soon, I hope.
Thanks again
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nope pic's are not to large. how do you go about posting them? I usually type in a message and then go to the top where you see all the little Icons?
and click on the paper clip. it'll pop up a box that you can choose a picture in to upload. click on browse in a row and navigate to where you keep your pic's, choose a pic and then go to the next row. here's a pic. not a good one mind you but it'll get you on the general area you need to click on. I use Irfanview (free download) to convert my hi res pictures into a uploadable picture here. It does batches so you can oue your big pictures in the large folder and then run the batch conversion and it will put the smaller sized pictures into the Small folder. that way you don't have to convert pic's each time you want to post a pic.


and yeah your pieces look AWESOME. who do I gotta beat up to get some pieces that good? just name em and I'll send the wife over to do it:glasses7:
View attachment add pic's.jpg
 
any idea how I get the stainless off of the wing window frame???
Any idea if I can get after market sill plates??
Thanks
 
pyrojim said:
I hope it's here. Nope, thats new, file failed to upload???
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file failed to upload " is too big a picture" resize using something like irfanview to 648x480 and then try.
if your looking to remove the stainless on the vent window frame .. well let;'s just say you will destroy it. I have a set that I tried to get off and polish it up. didn't work to well. they seem to be pressed on and fixed really well. just polish it up with it on. the rubber comes out (hard) and will go back in (harder) vut you can remove that for polishing
 
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